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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 97 glx with the duratec engine. I have replaced the thermostat,waterpump,coolant lines and heater core. Was fine for a few weeks now the temp guage fluctuates dramatically from mid to HOT! Majority of the time it blows very little hot air. If under acceleration or high rev when the gauge peaks out I then get hot air. I can hear "glugging" noises from heater core. Indicative of air but I have added coolant many times with the cap off to release any air. The car still runs fine no loss of power. All of the parts have less than 1500 miles on them. Any help would be greatly appreciated for I am at a loss.
 

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Your thermostat could have failed right out of the box.

Also, if your radiator was plugged up with junk it could have plugged up your heater core again. (Have you ever had your cooling system flushed?)

Make sure your coolant is topped off and you put all hose clamps back in place.
 

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Why were all those parts replaced to begin with? Did you have an overheating problem before, or did it start with the new parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Replaced all the parts when water pump went out. Due to the common cooling system problems associated with these cars. I replaced everything else. I was leaning toward the t-stat or water pump. I can hear the t-stat popping like it is working. Here's to hoping its just air.
 

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Cooling system problems are common with Vulcans, not Duratecs. Cracks on the bottom of the overflow tank are common on old, original tanks, either engine. The system on either engine bleeds air out automatically through the coolant expansion tube to reservoir tank line, air can't get trapped in a Taurus coolant system. Sounds like a bad replacement stat to me.
 

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A couple of things to note. Did you replace the thermostat with a Motorcraft thermostat ? If not anything is possible at this point. Did you put the thermostat in backwards? There have been many write-ups of unhappy car owners by not using the Motorcraft thermostat.

Given the age of the car verify the coolant tank is not cracked. What is the health and status of the radiator? I replace my 1997 OEM radiator in DEC-2010.

If necessary pressure test the cooling system and look for leaks.

Monsoon
 

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Cooling system problems are common with Vulcans, not Duratecs. Cracks on the bottom of the overflow tank are common on old, original tanks, either engine. The system on either engine bleeds air out automatically through the coolant expansion tube to reservoir tank line, air can't get trapped in a Taurus coolant system. Sounds like a bad replacement stat to me.
I agree, That is what I am dealing with, when I took it to a shop and a new Tstat was put in but NOT MC. Same issues, temp fluctuations. I now have the correct MC from Ford ready to go in. also pressure test it, I did and all is well.

Stay Motorcraft, less issues.
 

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1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
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The symptoms you've described are EXACTLY what I experience with my '02 Chevy Impala when I haven't bled all the air out sufficiently. With that car, you have to open a brass bleeder screw on the T-Stat housing and wait for all the air to blow out and fluid to start bubbling out, then you close it. Until that's done, the temperature gauge can fluctuate wildly past midscale to very scary-looking levels. With my '97 Taurus GL (3.0 Vulcan engine), however, I've never had this problem because, like someone already mentioned, the system is self-purging.

But I've got a few questions for you:

1.) Are you sure, or can you verify that your Taurus also has the self-purge feature and it is working properly? I would think it would have it, and if it does, it almost HAS to be working properly, so I'd doubt this is your problem ... but I'd check it out anyway just to be sure.

2.) Does your Taurus have the "H" hose installed? This is the hose that comes out of the water pump and runs to the heater core and parallel to it. It provides a reliable route of flow in case the heater core plugs up. If you don't have it (and the non-Vulcans may not, I don't know), then your heater core may be constricting flow. To eliminate this as a possibility, you could attach a hose at the firewall lines, flush it out, and see if your problem goes away for a while.

I would think your problem is air still in the system, but the T-Stat is a possibility, too, I suppose. Personally, I always replace buried parts like T-Stats with OEM because I don't want to take a chance that some non-OEM part might be defective or incompatible and have to dig back down to replace the part again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After a couple days of checking and filling the tank it seems to be back to normal. No overheating and hot air. I have discovered a leak somewhere near the radiator on driver side. Possibly t-stat housing. Gonna check this weekend. Thanks for all the it is greatly appreciated.
 

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my 02 taurus dad a similar problem if u have access to a smoake machine try that to check for vacume leaks. Under your dash is a vacume blader that opens and closes when u turn the heat on at the dash, their might be a pin hole in it like mine which is why under high rpm's you create more vacume to componsate for the hole leading to heat working.
 
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