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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've read the guide on how to flush out your heater core. I did this twice. I went from having A/C blowing when I had the knob all the way to Hot, to now having luke-warm/air/or vent temperature air come through. Its not really hot at all. That happens when I have it blowing out the front vents on the dash. When its on Defrost it just seems to still feel cold.

I checked the blend door actuator motor and its working properly. I even took the motor off and moved the door to the up position with my hand (required taking out the stereo and glove box). The air is still cool.

When I flushed the system the fluid wasn't pure green, yet it wasn't really brown or sludgy, I didn't see any chunks come out or what not.

So now I'm unclear of what to do next...Could it be a problem in the housing where the air actually travels from? Could the blend door be warped or broken inside there?

Should I try flushing the system AGAIN? I've done it twice in one day it seemed to me like there was a slight improvement but nothing major. It just seems like the air condition is stuck on all the time.

I couldn't find anything on here similar to this.

Thanks,

Andrew
 

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Try touching hoses that go to the heater core. If one is hotter then the other, then your core is blocked.

A/C will operate in defrost as long as outside temperature is above 6 degrees C or 43 degrees F.

What does your temperature gauge reeds on fully warmed up car? Is your thermostat operating properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Theremostat is fine. Temp reads Cold @ startup then gets to about the middle.

Thanks for the tip on the fuse for the AC I'll try that. I felt the hoses near the top of the engine bay they're both hot if they're hot there does that mean the heater core is fine? Or do i need to check where the hoses feed into the heater core lower in the engine bay?

PS I tried taking the heater core out today using the method the guy on the youtube video used, I ran into a problem taking the hoses off where they feed into the heater core. I could only really get to the clamp on one. The other clamp/hose I could not access with any tools to get it off. I got one clamp slid down the hose but couldn't even pull the hose off. There isn't much room at all for movement down there. Are you suppose to be under the car to do it? I was working from above the engine bay.

Thanks,

Andrew
 

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the heater hose near the air cleaner will still fill hot even though the HC is glogged because the hot coolant will pass thru the bypass and back into the block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ah, ok. Well I'm going to try and flush it again tomorrow...since removing the heater core doesn't seem to be an option for me.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I was able to flush the heater core. I didn't find any gunk or anything like that...I think it has something to do with the blend doors inside the air housing. I'm not sure...Someone recommended removing a fuse to eliminate air conditioning conflicting with it. What fuse is that? Fuse 32? In the fuse box under the steering wheel?
 

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So I was able to flush the heater core. I didn't find any gunk or anything like that...I think it has something to do with the blend doors inside the air housing. I'm not sure...Someone recommended removing a fuse to eliminate air conditioning conflicting with it. What fuse is that? Fuse 32? In the fuse box under the steering wheel?
No its in the fuse box under the hood near the radiator to the right. the guide for the fuses is under the cap I think its fuse #17. Remover it will kill your A/C temporarily.
 

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Did you do the "Clinton" flush from the guide by blowing air in the hoses both ways?

If you didn't get any gunk out of the system using that method then you are probably not having the classic plugged heatercore problem and you do need to look elsewhere, however finding gunk by using the blowing method usually indicates somethings plugged.
 

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When the engine is hot, do the radiator hoses feel like there's pressure? On the vulcan engine, the water pumps can start to fail, but yet will not overheat, the first sign is bad heat. When you changed the coolant, how bad did it look? It could be one of 3 things: a failing water pump, plugged heater core, or bad blend door. There should be a bypass hose for the heater core, in case if it gets blocked, you won't overheat the engine.
 

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There are mulitple HVAC doors, one for heater core blend, and others for vent blending. You're sure you tested the right one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So...There is pressure in the hose(s), and I'm not sure about the blend door, because I'm only able to move a lever on the outside of the entire black air housing (or whatever its called) I'm not sure. The heater core itself feels warm (not sure if this is normal or will occur if its plugged) I can see the heater core from under my dash. I have the blend door actuator motor removed. When I turn the air/heat on it feels as if cold air is blowing out down there even if I don't have the switch on floor. I found this odd. Makes me thing my blend doors are screwed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't get it...

I took the "fuse 17" out and tried turning the heat on after the car had been warmed up. It blew hot for about ten to fifteen seconds then got luke-warm, then cold....I don't get it...feels like air is somehow leaking out down by the heater core. Also when I turn the car off its making a sort of buzzing or humming noise down below the glove box.

This car makes me sad :( 2000 with 85,000 miles on it.
 

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Your heater core is plugged. The heat at first that quickly dies away is a classic symptom. You can't flush out chunks that are bigger than the core passageways. Vulcans are notorious core pluggers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I wasn't able to detach the hoses from the heater core itself... There isn't any room to get back behind the engine with your hand from above the car. I could try to get under it...I just don't have many resources available for that.
 
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