Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hola, very nice site here; very, very informative. Read and perfomred the Clinton version of the no-heat on daughter's 99 SE. hardly any garbage came out, hose water ran thru very well, no improvement in heat. Noticed after listening closely that, when temp is full-on to heat, I can hear a repeated clicking sound...reminscent of what HeaterTreater describes as a typical sumptom of broken door.

Has anyone purchased and installed HT product? Like to hear any feedback, good or bad. I'm comparing HT $119 to approx. $75 for all OEM parts from RockAuto, like to know if it's worth it. (Though I did notice that the heater box does NOT need to be removed to install HT parts)

NOTE: I perform my own timing belt jobs, brake jobs, etc. on every car I've owned, so am no newbie to wrastlin' or scrapin' knuckles. ;)

Thanks in advance,

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is it the blend door or stripped plastic gears on the actuator motor (more common) youre hearing?
According to HT site, I can remove the glove box door by simply pushing in box sides to free the door and remove. I plan to do that, but it's 6 degrees F here and scared of cracking plastic. Will move car into garage over the weekend, remove door, take a look with key on.

Thanks,

Mike
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
According to HT site, I can remove the glove box door by simply pushing in box sides to free the door and remove. I plan to do that, but it's 6 degrees F here and scared of cracking plastic. Will move car into garage over the weekend, remove door, take a look with key on.

Thanks,

Mike
The sides won't crack, from experience. Sometimes you can slide out the ashtray (non-floor console models) and remove it's bracket ( 3 bolts on back side/top ) to get a good look in there as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
633 Posts
you can use socket wrench to remove the glove box,
three hex machine screws under the hinge.

with the ash tray removed, it lets you see a lot better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I dont want to repeat anyone, but I am working on my moms currently, and this was one of her MANY problems.

She has a 99 taurus.

The blend door actuator had stripped a gear (3-4 teeth) causing it to continually grind, because the sensor would never reach its destined path to meet the dials request :p

Currently it is winter ;) so I just zip tied the flap to full on heat for now. It was $50 at shucks for the whole thing, but I am going to try and hit a junk yark one of these days.

They are not much fun to pull, but on the 99 you dont have to take the dash apart, I cant remember the year-frame in which that changed? Its just 4 bolts, I think 8mm? Lots of cramps and weird stretching to get to it :p


EDIT: I had to removed nothing to do this, it is very do-able by just laying on the seat upside down, and wrenching each bolt slowly out. Google or look up the image, very noticeable when you look under the dash, sorta under the radio towards passenger side a little.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you all for the feedback. This car has center console. Got the car in the garage and pulled the glove box, couldnt see much, and - more importantly - wasn't sure what I was supposed to be looking at, and what is normal or not :(.

Gonna pull the console, radio, ashtray, and remove the thing, see if I see stripped gears, cracked plastic parts, etc. I'll post here sometime next week to give an update on parts needed.
 

·
Cake monster
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
I dont want to repeat anyone, but I am working on my moms currently, and this was one of her MANY problems.

She has a 99 taurus.

The blend door actuator had stripped a gear (3-4 teeth) causing it to continually grind, because the sensor would never reach its destined path to meet the dials request :p

Currently it is winter ;) so I just zip tied the flap to full on heat for now. It was $50 at shucks for the whole thing, but I am going to try and hit a junk yark one of these days.

They are not much fun to pull, but on the 99 you dont have to take the dash apart, I cant remember the year-frame in which that changed? Its just 4 bolts, I think 8mm? Lots of cramps and weird stretching to get to it :p


EDIT: I had to removed nothing to do this, it is very do-able by just laying on the seat upside down, and wrenching each bolt slowly out. Google or look up the image, very noticeable when you look under the dash, sorta under the radio towards passenger side a little.
I went out to a wreckers and got one for $20 to put in my Windstar, they have big problems with that. I got it out of the van in the yard in about 5 minutes, it took a little longer on my van. But I took some (manhandling) shortcuts. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,578 Posts
You dont have to pull the console or ashtray or glovebox, just pull the radio with din keys (available at walmart or any parts store for under $5). 5 seconds work.
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
You dont have to pull the console or ashtray or glovebox, just pull the radio with din keys (available at walmart or any parts store for under $5). 5 seconds work.
^+1....I use wire coat hanger pieces bent into a U shape...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,578 Posts
After pulling radio, leave it hooked up resting on the ashtray or console or shifter while observing blend door actuator movements. Insert u-shaped din keys fully into the 4 holes on both sides of the radio and with slight outward pressure on the keys, slide out radio and hvac controls (oval football).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update!

After pulling radio, leave it hooked up resting on the ashtray or console or shifter while observing blend door actuator movements. Insert u-shaped din keys fully into the 4 holes on both sides of the radio and with slight outward pressure on the keys, slide out radio and hvac controls (oval football).
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for all the helpful pointers! Bought all the OEM pieces for the heater door and a t'stat. Replaced the t'stat, engine warms up much faster (still 188F setting, must have been original t'stat acting up). Bought the DIN tool, removed the ratio/heater control "football", then removed the glove box and lower black horixontal shield. Still no heat after replacing stat and "blowing" the heater core clear (not much **** at all), but could hear what I call the "transmission" (the square doo-hickey that moves the door) clicking away. Replaced the "tranny" thing and VIOLA - daughter now has heat! Gonna return the toher parts...now if I could get the sunroof operating...that can wait until spring.

Happy New Year,

Mike
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for all the helpful pointers! Bought all the OEM pieces for the heater door and a t'stat. Replaced the t'stat, engine warms up much faster (still 188F setting, must have been original t'stat acting up). Bought the DIN tool, removed the ratio/heater control "football", then removed the glove box and lower black horixontal shield. Still no heat after replacing stat and "blowing" the heater core clear (not much **** at all), but could hear what I call the "transmission" (the square doo-hickey that moves the door) clicking away. Replaced the "tranny" thing and VIOLA - daughter now has heat! Gonna return the toher parts...now if I could get the sunroof operating...that can wait until spring.

Happy New Year,

Mike
Doo-hickey = blend door actuator motor.
The gears strip off on them sometimes.
Happy New Year to you Mike.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top