Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

On 94 ford taurus, the coolant from the water pump on the passenger side of the vehicle goes into a bypass hose, which splits into two lines. These are somehow connected to or goes into some metal tubes leading to the center of the vehicle firewall where the tube is pressure fitted into hose, and that hose then connects to the heater core inlet. From there its a similar set up, e.g., hose out of the heater core outlet pipe, which connects to a short bit of hose that's pressure fitted to another tube, which I guess then goes back to the engine block on the driver side of the vehicle.

I gather the tubing is sometimes called the 'heater tube assembly' or it may not even have a real name... Chiltons manual calls one the heater core hot water tube (both going into and out of the heater core), and the other the heater core bypass tube (I've no idea where that one goes to).

It is the heater core hot water tube between the water pump and the heater core inlet tube hose that has ruptured.

I'm NOT concerned with retaining heater function, just very concerned with stopping this leak so the vehicle is safe to drive. (Several years ago the heater core gave out, and I just used some heater hose to jump across the heater core since the chilton's manual said replacing this core required removal of entire dashboard, and breaking into the AC lines and evacuating the AC system etc.)

The rupture/crack is on the bottom of the tube, part of the horizontal run, but right near or at the 90 degree turn the pipe makes up towards the heater core - and as soon as the engine is on it leaks very badly and continues to leak so long as there is any pressure in the system.

I've just had spine surgery a few weeks ago, and so am desperate to find a diagram and/or information on this heater tube assembly telling me what the flow pattern is (or was supposed to be before I jumped the heater core!) and how and where the ends are attached. Unfortunately cost is an issue also at this point but whatever I do does need to be something that will last for awhile and is safe/reliable to drive the vehicle without damaging the vehicle in any way of course also.

Ford dealer charges over $125 for the "assembly" part alone...

I'm very much hoping there is some way I can bypass this tube with heater hose, or somehow effect a repair or work around to stop the leak. Also very much hoping I can get as much info on how the ends attach and where, sizes/fittings, etc., if changing the flow/pressure by replacing the tube with hose would have any detrimental effects on the vehicle, etc., because with the lower back surgery hanging over the engine trying to trace the lines and figure it all out is extremely difficult....

Thanks in advance for any advice, tips, diagrams, and help!

(p.s., I just replaced the water pump, water pump bypass hose, lower radiator hose all because the water pump just started leaking badly also from its weep hole - not long before the tube started leaking. Anyhow, I managed to get the water pump leak problem fixed, now its that blasted tube that's the problem and making the car virtually undriveable)
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
When that "assembly" rotted out on my Taurus, I just replaced it all with new heater hose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not sure how to do either of these suggestions. Let me try explaining, otherwise I'd have to figure out how to use a paint/drawing program......

There is a bypass hose that comes out of the water pump that is about 6" long.

Bypass hose goes OVER a metal piece, attached by simple/regular screw on or spring type clamp, no problem.

That metal pipe, however, almost immediately branches into a Y - I gather the butterfly valve and/or thermostat for the heater core/system is in the base of that Y.

The bottom branch of the Y extends only a few inches, and then has a pressure fitting to about 6 inches of heater hose, with the other end of that heater hose also pressure fitted to metal tubing - this I gather is the water bypass tube, and that line is ok. It runs all the way across the firewall from passenger side to driver side, then turns and goes somewhere into the engine. There may be more pressure fitted hose on the end that goes into the engine, I'm not certain... its ok right now, however.

The TOP branch of that metal Y (just after the water pump bypass hose) just continues, all metal pipe/tube, until it gets to the center of the car firewall and makes a 90 degree turn upwards (still metal) - and just before that turn is where the tube is cracked/ruptured and leaking. After the 90 degree turn, the tube goes up a short distance, and then is pressure fitted to about 4" of heater hose.

That heater hose is normally attached with regular screw on or spring clamp to a few inches of heater hose which is then connected to the heater core inlet pipe again by regular clamp.

Because my heater core died, however, I simply took that hose off the heater core inlet pipe, and connected it all the way around to where it goes back into the engine.

The hose that would normally be connected to the heater core outlet, goes a few inches, and then is connected with regular clamps to yet another short bit of heater hose which is pressure fitted to more heater core hot water tube, which goes around to yet another pressure fitted bit of hose which then connects back to the engine... I've got that entire line totally disconnected so i could bypass the heater core.

So... I don't see how to deal with the metal Y, or even just the part of the tubing that is ruptured because its pressure fitted to hose on the heater core side, and is a single piece of solid metal tubing all the way thru the metal Y branch until it hits the water pump bypass hose...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,126 Posts
As far as the crimped fittings, these are aluminum and easy to remove by cutting off the crimp.

A picture of what you are referring to would help a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, lets see if this works. Apologies for the crudeness of the drawing....

Here's what the system configuration was originally:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
and here's what the configuration currently is - you'll see how I bypassed the bad heater core

and most importantly where the blasted leak location is....

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Paul,

Yes, that's the right diagram & the one in my chilton's too...

In view A, number 6, that Y branch is metal and solid metal on the top branch of the Y - and that's the tube that's leaking.... if you look at view B, you see right where the number 4 arrow is pointing? That's where the leak is, in that part of the tubeing/assembly. The number 3 tube is fine, at least so far.... and its the piece that originates from the bottom branch of view A number 6....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,126 Posts
Well as said you can replace the Y part with a tee and the metal tubing with regular hose and plastic connectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Like this?



and, sorry for the ignorance questions of the week:

I'm assuming then that they make T's that ought to fit the large end into the water pump bypass hose and the smaller ends into regular heater hose?

That T won't cause the water pump any damage because of more back pressure of water hitting the T instead of a Y or anything like that? Or that T failing quickly because of the hot water hitting it straight on that way?

How do I best secure the long run of hoses? maybe those nylon zip ties holding the 2 together and attaching them to the existing tubing?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,126 Posts
I'm not familiar enough with your engine but back pressure will not be a problem unless you are reducing the size of the hose/tubing.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top