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Hi guys I'm workin on my mom's car. Its a 2001 taurus, because the heat isn't working correctly. I'll give you the run down on what's been done so far. 2 or 3 years ago the heater core was replaced, and within the last year the thermostat has been replaced. The car heats up fine, and runs at normal temperature. But the heat will blow warm for just a few seconds after the blower is turned on, then will cool off and be barely warmer than the air outside. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I'm not familiar with these cars.

Thanks,

Jordan
 

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Hi guys I'm workin on my mom's car. Its a 2001 taurus, because the heat isn't working correctly. I'll give you the run down on what's been done so far. 2 or 3 years ago the heater core was replaced, and within the last year the thermostat has been replaced. The car heats up fine, and runs at normal temperature. But the heat will blow warm for just a few seconds after the blower is turned on, then will cool off and be barely warmer than the air outside. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I'm not familiar with these cars.

Thanks,

Jordan
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I have the EXACT same problem, and have seen other posts similar as well, so I would assume it's a semi-common issue. I haven't seen any concrete answer on it though outside of low coolant possibly, but mine was doing it right after topping off the reservoir. It'd be cool if someone had an answer for this... :)
 

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Air in the system ?
Clogged heater core?
Partially blocked passage causing it to block a complete seal when the heater is turned on from vent/AC to heat. ( my guess )
 

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If it's a 'tec, it shouldn't have the usual clogged heater core problems that the vulcans have, but it could be. First thing to do would be to get the engine warmed up and crank the heat on, then check the heater hoses as close to the heater core as you can get. Both should be warm. If one is warm and the other is noticeably cooler, then the heater core is plugged again. If that's the case, you need to find out why that's happening, as the 'tecs usually aren't prone to the sludgy coolant issues like the vulcans are. If the coolant hasn't been flushed in a long time, start with that, and power flush the heater core to blow the crap out of it. Do you know if anyone has ever put stop-leak into the system? If so, that could be part of the problem, as some stop-leak agents plug up more than just leaks - they can plug up rads and heater cores too.
 

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Well it isn't because of low coolant because I checked that today, and did everything I could to work out any bubbles that may have been in it. I guess tomorrow I will start with the heater core. I'll check the hoses and go from there. Thanks for the replies. Oh and by the way its a vulcan, not a duratec. I didn't realize that I had selected that untill now. But it's corrected :banana:
 

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Well it isn't because of low coolant because I checked that today, and did everything I could to work out any bubbles that may have been in it. I guess tomorrow I will start with the heater core. I'll check the hoses and go from there. Thanks for the replies. Oh and by the way its a vulcan, not a duratec. I didn't realize that I had selected that untill now. But it's corrected :banana:
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Ah - that changes things. How did the coolant look? Was is dark and dingy? The vulcans are known for that. For a while, we had to install a heater bypass kit and do a nasty and very involved chemical cooling system flush to clean them out and get rid of all the sludge. I'm pretty sure there are many write-ups on the site about what to do to flush the heater core and the cooling system to correct your problem. If you search, you should be able to find a detailed write-up. In a nutshell, you should pick up some cooling system flushing agent of some kind and do a thorough cooling system flush. Then i'd disconnect the upper and lower rad hoses and heater hoses, and flush out the rad, heater core, expansion tank and block with a garden hose to get out as much more of the crap in there as you can - you might be surprised by what you see come outta that engine. Then refill the system with your 50/50 mix, and it wouldn't hurt to put in some cooling system additive to help prevent it from happening again. We put some kind of diesel cooling system additive in them at my shop - i can't remember what it's called exactly, but if you went to the dealer or checked at some parts stores, you could probably find it.

If you're strapped for time, you could try just pinching off the heater hoses, disconnecting them from the heather core, and flushing it out only. That would get it flowing again for now, but it probably won't stay like that for long, especially if there's a lotta crap running around in the system. I did that once at the shop for a customer who didn't want to spend the money on the full flush. I disconnected the heater core and flushed the crap out, then hooked it back up, and got the engine heated up. It was blowing nice hot air for about 10 mins, but I didn't even get the car out of the shop again before the heater core was plugged back up enough to lose heat. I ended up having to do the full chemical flush to clean it all out properly and prevent it from plugging up again.
 

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hi,

I bet your water pump impeller looks like
a food processor blade instead of an impeller.

my '99 wagon needed new pump,
easy to do and it fixed the problem.
 

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sorry to hijack, but my inlet and outlet temps differ by 30 degrees F. Didn't have time to flush today because we were BUSY, 10 hours today woohoo! I am doing it saturday, and installing the pass side sail tweeter, and possibly the autodim rearview mirror w/ compass, and if the guy has them, heated side mirrors w/ puddle lamps!!!!
 

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Well just flushed the heater core, what a difference! When I back flushed it, a bunch of brown water came out, with a few chunks :noes: Ill have to see how it goes, and got the sail tweeter on, huge difference!
 
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