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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 Taurus SEL and I know I'm getting old and my eyesight is going but I feel that the standard headlights on my car are so dim I can't even tell if they're on at night and I'm always reaching for the switch thinking I forgot to turn them on. Meanwhile I see all these other cars with nuclear headlights that can take the paint off my car if they get too close. Can anyone recommend better or stronger bulbs for the taurus that won't blow a fuse or drain the battery, melt the housing or anything like that. I thought I read somewhere once that if you put too high wattage replacement bulbs you can damage your electrical system. Is that really true??

Thanks
 

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grab a set of vvme or ddm bixenon hids eith 4300k or 6000k (lower kelvin is less hurtful to the eyes even if they are PNP)

there around $70 bucks and you cant beat that at all for anywhere near the price. just make sure you aim them down a bit, and dont get them too blue.
 

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Are the lenses cloudy? There's kits you can buy to clean up the plastic headlamp housings, and there's also detail shops that will do it. When the lenses fog up, it greatly reduces the light output. I found Sylvania Xtra-vision bulbs worked great in my old car, and they're inexpensive, about $22 for a pair at Walmart, they had better light output than the factory bulbs. I'm thinking about putting Xtravisions on the new car, which thankfully has the better H2 size bulbs.
 

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If you want bright headlights just get hids and don't waste money on silverstars, I used to have my head trapped in that mode then I got a 6000k 35w hid kit and it had at least 5x the power yes you get high beamed occasionally but if you go 4300k they are super bright and the white color doesn't blind you like blue 10,000k bulbs do. It just depends on what you want, I couldn't care less about being flashed once in a while I've had hids for at least 4 years and never endangered a life with them... Now everyone on this forum will flame me for saying that but It doesn't bother me, I finally had the courtesy to get projectors because I wanted the luxury look and loved the cutoff, but I miss my bright php kit it was bright as hell
 

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Not everyone is willing to modify the headlights to have HIDs.

If you just want bulbs, get Sylvania Xtravisions, GE Nighthawks, or Philips CrystalVisions. This is providing your headlights aren't cloudy like every other Taurus on the road. If they are cloudy, new bulbs aren't going to help much until they're clear.

One step up is to install a headlight harness. SUVlights.com sells one that's plug and play with the Taurus. This helps because it grabs power from the battery and uses the headlight socket as a switch. The existing wiring in the car puts the power from the battery to the cabin (to the switch/computer/fusebox) then to the headlights so a lot of power gets lost.
 

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2003 Ford taurus Centennial Edition
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Not everyone is willing to modify the headlights to have HIDs.

If you just want bulbs, get Sylvania Xtravisions, GE Nighthawks, or Philips CrystalVisions. This is providing your headlights aren't cloudy like every other Taurus on the road. If they are cloudy, new bulbs aren't going to help much until they're clear.

One step up is to install a headlight harness. SUVlights.com sells one that's plug and play with the Taurus. This helps because it grabs power from the battery and uses the headlight socket as a switch. The existing wiring in the car puts the power from the battery to the cabin (to the switch/computer/fusebox) then to the headlights so a lot of power gets lost.
X2!!! The headlight harness will dramatically help, it it easy to install..basically just plug the harness into your existing headlight plug.
If you want a set of Sylvania Silverstars will help a lot, too.
I don't know much about those HID's but this is much less costly and a lot easier in my opnion.
 

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If you want bright headlights just get hids and don't waste money on silverstars, I used to have my head trapped in that mode then I got a 6000k 35w hid kit and it had at least 5x the power yes you get high beamed occasionally but if you go 4300k they are super bright and the white color doesn't blind you like blue 10,000k bulbs do. It just depends on what you want, I couldn't care less about being flashed once in a while I've had hids for at least 4 years and never endangered a life with them... Now everyone on this forum will flame me for saying that but It doesn't bother me, I finally had the courtesy to get projectors because I wanted the luxury look and loved the cutoff, but I miss my bright php kit it was bright as hell
Honest questions here, but what do you do in states such as yours that have inspections? Won't you blind oncoming drivers because of all the chrome inside the housing that is designed to illuminate like a halogen bulb? OK that's all fine if you don't care, but I don't want to piss off other drivers by poorly aimed and weird reflections because I'm a cheap bastard and don't give a rat's a$$ about them. Keeping low profile is my aim, don't want to give police a reason to pull me over.
 

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well i found out first hand that a 10,000k 35w kit is 1000x more blinding than a 5000k kit, the white light is much easier on the eyes than the blue light is, and just aim them down a bit if they are too intense, but the light is so much better than silverstars even with the harness they dont touch 35w hids at all. and hids require NO modification
 

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retro solutions makes a very nice 4300 kit. Mark and I both have them on our Tauruses. I've recently installed a second set on my 2003. My brother and I also recently installed them on his 2008 F-1fiddy, including fogs. Mark did the headlights on his F-1fiddy as well. On the Taurus the hardest thing is finding a spot to locate the ballasts. No other mods necessary.

Now, projectors, that's a different story, much mods needed. NO BUENO!!!!
 

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Honest questions here, but what do you do in states such as yours that have inspections? Won't you blind oncoming drivers because of all the chrome inside the housing that is designed to illuminate like a halogen bulb? OK that's all fine if you don't care, but I don't want to piss off other drivers by poorly aimed and weird reflections because I'm a cheap bastard and don't give a rat's a$$ about them. Keeping low profile is my aim, don't want to give police a reason to pull me over.
In Texas, you will fail yearly inspection if you installed aftermarket HID kits without the proper projector housing. Those aftermarket kits, attached to oem housings, are illegal.
 

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First thing I did when I got my Taurus was install Sylvania silverstar headlamps in it. Bought off ebay for $25 best improvement I've made on the car. My wife is happy also now that she no longer needs to ride on the hood holding a candle.
Had them installed in 20 minutes. Don't leave fingerprints on the bulb, use alcohol to clean them before installation.
 

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grab a $44 dollar hid kit from vvme, high/low with a halogen high beam, even going with 10,000k puts more than 4x the output of silverstars.

but cops seem to not care around here i did forget about this, so check laws in your area before you try them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow! Thanks everyone for all this advice. Looks like I do have a lot of choices. I don't want to blind other drivers although I do have my bad days when I want to get back at them for blinding me with those dam light but then I realize I'm better than them. I just want to be able to see where I'm going so I don't have an accident or cause some else to have one.

Thanks again!!
 

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The best upgrade you can do, that is both safe and legal is the following:

Bypass the factory wiring with a relay harness kit. This means the power that runs the headlights does not have to flow all that distance through undersized wiring only to go through a high resistance headlight switch, multifunction switch, and where applicable, a DRL module, only to then flow all the way back to the lights through undersized wiring. Just this harness allows the bulbs to put out their full rated output, the factory wiring looses about 20% of the output.

The next major thing you need to be sure of is that the lenses are clear. By the time a lens becomes noticeably foggy, it has already lost about 15% of its output, and a badly fogged lens can cost you as much as 60% of your light. There are lots of polishing kits, the only ones that really work are those that restore the clearcoat, otherwise the lens will very quickly fade again, and the damage will be much deeper.

The third thing is which bulbs to use. You will hear many talk about Silverstars. Those bulbs are to put it very bluntly, a hoax that plays on an optical illusion. The human eye will always perceive a light that has a slight bluish color to be brighter than one with a yellowish color. The Silverstars appear to be whiter and brighter, not because they are, but rather because they have a coating that removes some of the yellow spectrum, creating an illusion of brightness. The brightest bulb Sylvania makes is the Xtravision, however, it may not put out its rated output unless your wiring can supply the power it needs. Another excellent bulb is the GE Nighthawk, but beware, there are two versions. The regular Nighthawk is awesome, the Ultra version is a Silverstar knockoff and has all the same problems.
 
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