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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drove my Gen 4 in the dark for a bit yesterday morning and I was fully disappointed with the stock lighting. The headlights have a good pattern with a nice sharp cutoff, but the light output was poor.

So, I drove over to Summit Racing and got one of their part number SUM-890031, which is an undocumented wiring harness. I looked at it and it was exactly what others are selling for $55+... Summit has them in stock for $39.99.

I put it in, wiring the power feed to the alternator output directly and grounding to the first bolt on each fender. The relays tuck into the space between the radiator and the radiator support.

The only tough part of the install is the part where you plug the harness into the headlights. The Taurus hides the actual headlight connector inside the headlight compartment, which is covered with a large cone-type piece of plastic. Now, the stock 9007 plug slides right out of this peice, but the new 9007 plug will only go in with a little pressure. It does go in, though.

The difference? Huge. It is hard to quantify, but I did it in the afternoon and with one side done, I did a side-by-side comparison with the stock setup. It looked like the difference between old incandescant headlights and halogen... stock was dim and yellow, the harness side was much brighter and much whiter.

I drove it last night and the difference is huge. Much more light output. This is a must-do mod for anyone that drives at night, the stock headlights are just dangerous.

Now I'll upgrade the bulbs and that should help a bit more...

Here's a web site with a pic of the exact type of harness I used. The only difference is that our cars have 9007 bubls, which has only one connector per side,... this pic shows two...

http://jen.liu.tripod.com/suvlights/id14.html
 

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Originally posted by tremor12@Aug 29 2004, 06:31 AM
I drove my Gen 4 in the dark for a bit yesterday morning and I was fully disappointed with the stock lighting. The headlights have a good pattern with a nice sharp cutoff, but the light output was poor.

So, I drove over to Summit Racing and got one of their part number SUM-890031, which is an undocumented wiring harness. I looked at it and it was exactly what others are selling for $55+... Summit has them in stock for $39.99.

I put it in, wiring the power feed to the alternator output directly and grounding to the first bolt on each fender. The relays tuck into the space between the radiator and the radiator support. 

The only tough part of the install is the part where you plug the harness into the headlights. The Taurus hides the actual headlight connector inside the headlight compartment, which is covered with a large cone-type piece of plastic. Now, the stock 9007 plug slides right out of this peice, but the new 9007 plug will only go in with a little pressure. It does go in, though.

The difference? Huge. It is hard to quantify, but I did it in the afternoon and with one side done, I did a side-by-side comparison with the stock setup. It looked like the difference between old incandescant headlights and halogen... stock was dim and yellow, the harness side was much brighter and much whiter. 

I drove it last night and the difference is huge. Much more light output. This is a must-do mod for anyone that drives at night, the stock headlights are just dangerous.

Now I'll upgrade the bulbs and that should help a bit more...

Here's a web site with a pic of the exact type of harness I used. The only difference is that our cars have 9007 bubls, which has only one connector per side,... this pic shows two...

http://jen.liu.tripod.com/suvlights/id14.html
Powering the harness from the alternator? Good. This is the best place to take power from.

Grounding to the fender? Bad. You should ground to either the battery or alternator casing or both. You'll pick up a little extra voltage this way. Try it and see.

See my post in this thread for details -> Headlight harness

The harness in the picture you linked to looks like it could use heavier gauge wiring for the main harness. Other than that, it looks reasonably well made.


Edit: There appears to be no fuse or circuit breaker in the main headlight power wiring or the relay trigger wires. The description of the harness in the link you gave does not indicate a fuse/breaker is part of the system. If indeed there is no fuse/breaker, please install them right away. If you don't, you have a fire waiting to happen.


Mark
95 SHO
 

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I ground the actual headight wire to the fender bolt then run a ground wire from the each fender bolt to the ground junction on the drivers inner fender by the air box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Originally posted by Markus@Aug 29 2004, 10:32 AM

Powering the harness from the alternator? Good. This is the best place to take power from.

Grounding to the fender? Bad. You should ground to either the battery or alternator casing or both. You'll pick up a little extra voltage this way. Try it and see.

See my post in this thread for details -> Headlight harness

The harness in the picture you linked to looks like it could use heavier gauge wiring for the main harness. Other than that, it looks reasonably well made.


Edit: There appears to be no fuse or circuit breaker in the main headlight power wiring or the relay trigger wires. The description of the harness in the link you gave does not indicate a fuse/breaker is part of the system. If indeed there is no fuse/breaker, please install them right away. If you don't, you have a fire waiting to happen.


Mark
95 SHO
The connection at the alternator is actually two fusible links, so the fusing is built-in, but will be a pain if they ever fry. However, the chances of that are very remote since everything is double-insulated and wire-tied...

the ground is actually to the frame rails under the fenders, but I'll stick a meter on it and see if there is a difference in grounds. Regardless, it will be a minimal difference versus the huge difference in the change of the wiring from stock!
 

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The connection at the alternator is actually two fusible links, so the fusing is built-in, but will be a pain if they ever fry. However, the chances of that are very remote since everything is double-insulated and wire-tied...
Now you've confused me. I don't know the wiring in the 2001 cars but in my 95 SHO, when I connect the headlight harness directly to the +ve output of the alternator, the headlight current does NOT go through the fusible links. If I took my headlight power feed from the underhood fuse box then the current would go via the fusible links. Is the 2001 different?

You may want to reconsider using the fusible links as the headlight fuse. The current required to blow the link is far greater than the current required to melt the headlight harness. This is not good. And, if the fusible link were to blow your vehicle will be immobilised.


the ground is actually to the frame rails under the fenders, but I'll stick a meter on it and see if there is a difference in grounds. Regardless, it will be a minimal difference versus the huge difference in the change of the wiring from stock!
You are correct, the difference will not be huge, but I'm sure it will be measurable with a good voltmeter. You should measure the voltage drop with the headlights turned on. This will give you the true voltage drop.





Mark
95 SHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by Markus@Aug 29 2004, 02:01 PM
The connection at the alternator is actually two fusible links, so the fusing is built-in, but will be a pain if they ever fry. However, the chances of that are very remote since everything is double-insulated and wire-tied...
Now you've confused me. I don't know the wiring in the 2001 cars but in my 95 SHO, when I connect the headlight harness directly to the +ve output of the alternator, the headlight current does NOT go through the fusible links. If I took my headlight power feed from the underhood fuse box then the current would go via the fusible links. Is the 2001 different?

You may want to reconsider using the fusible links as the headlight fuse. The current required to blow the link is far greater than the current required to melt the headlight harness. This is not good. And, if the fusible link were to blow your vehicle will be immobilised.


the ground is actually to the frame rails under the fenders, but I'll stick a meter on it and see if there is a difference in grounds. Regardless, it will be a minimal difference versus the huge difference in the change of the wiring from stock!
You are correct, the difference will not be huge, but I'm sure it will be measurable with a good voltmeter. You should measure the voltage drop with the headlights turned on. This will give you the true voltage drop.





Mark
95 SHO
No, the wiring harness has two fusible links as it's connection to the alternator. You can see it on the picture I linked to in the first post, the black wires before the plastic connection ARE fusible links... so it's all good...

And I agree, using the main fusible links wouldn't do any good at all...
 

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Where's the best place to order a harness from?
 

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No, the wiring harness has two fusible links as it's connection to the alternator. You can see it on the picture I linked to in the first post, the black wires before the plastic connection ARE fusible links... so it's all good...

Now I understand. I was having a hard time believing that Summit would sell a harness without current protection. I now know they don't. I have never considered using fusable links in my own harnesses. I am now wanting to compare voltage drops of fuses, circuit breakers, and fusable links. Me thinks it's time to do just this. I'll post the results as soon as I have them.


Would you be able give me the voltages to your headlights of both the stock harness and your new harness? I'm simply curious!


Enjoy your night driving.



Mark
95 SHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by Markus@Aug 29 2004, 05:57 PM
No, the wiring harness has two fusible links as it's connection to the alternator. You can see it on the picture I linked to in the first post, the black wires before the plastic connection ARE fusible links... so it's all good...

Now I understand. I was having a hard time believing that Summit would sell a harness without current protection. I now know they don't. I have never considered using fusable links in my own harnesses. I am now wanting to compare voltage drops of fuses, circuit breakers, and fusable links. Me thinks it's time to do just this. I'll post the results as soon as I have them.


Would you be able give me the voltages to your headlights of both the stock harness and your new harness? I'm simply curious!


Enjoy your night driving.



Mark
95 SHO
I'll definitely check voltages when I change bulbs... should be soon, I just have to find the "best" ones... Any suggestions? I've used Silverstars and, while I liked the color temperature, they were lacking in actual output (this could have been b/c low voltage on the car, though...) I'm looking for something that I can pick up at a local auto parts store...
 

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Most good aftermarket and customizing stores carry PIAA as well. :banana: Or is that just in South Florida?
 

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would love to see a pic how you worked it on a gen 4 as i had a harness and sold it due to not figuring it out on my gen 4 sable please provide a pic it would be helpful. i have piaa blubs and love tem but could not figuire the connector cone. Thanks
 

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A good wiring harness is easy to wire. The only real considerations are ....

1. Where do you ground the relays and headlights.

2. Where do you get the headlight 12V power from.

3. Where do you tap into to get the relay signal.

1. I ground the headlight plug to a fender bolt close to the headlight. I then run a ground wire from the passenger side ground to the drivers side ground to the relay ground on the drivers fenderwall where there are other OEM grounds. Make sure all the grounds have a path back to the battery through copper wire.

2. The under hood fuse box passenger side has a post to pick up 12v power from. On a Gen 3-4 it is the engine side of the Mega fuse.

3. A good harness will plug into the drivers side headlight plug.
 

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SHOZ123: Could you snap a pic of the engine compartment and highlight the tap point, grounds, and the power-up location for a Gen2? I could propably build a new harness, since I have fairly ready access to wire through work, but I'm not willing to start fooling around with any of the wiring without a little help.

I'm a fire-setting, hammer-swinging monkey, not a wire-pulling, light-breaking monkey...
(I'm a roofer, not an electrician... :lol2: )
 

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If you are not an electrician the for sure you want to get the pre made plug and play harness.

I'm an electrician and I would not make my own for the cost of a good pre made one.
 

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Originally posted by SHOZ123@Nov 14 2004, 01:11 AM
If you are not an electrician the for sure you want to get the pre made plug and play harness.

I'm an electrician and I would not make my own for the cost of a good pre made one.
I worked part time with my step dad (own buisness) for 3 summers as an electrician, and i wont do my own harnes (i tried once, the wire melted within the week. :blink: <---My face when i saw smoke pooring out from wear the wire was hiding... Luckily it was just the wire from the switch for my fogs)

Anyways. I bought the harness! be here next week i'd think. I thought i better because i work nights, so going to and from work, im drivin in the dark. And deer SUCK around here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Originally posted by 02sable@Nov 12 2004, 04:21 PM
would love to see a pic how you worked it on a gen 4 as i had a harness and sold it due to not figuring it out on my gen 4 sable please provide a pic it would be helpful. i have piaa blubs and love tem but could not figuire the connector cone. Thanks
You can _just_ get the connector inside the cone by removing the cone and working the connector in. There is no clearance, and you've got to use a bit of pressure, but I was able to pop mine in...

No problems since I've done the mod, still havent' upgraded the headlights yet... it's perfectly reasonable with just the harness...

But stock, it was absolutely abysmal... I didn't feel safe driving with the stock setup... it's worthless beyond 45MPH...
 

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Originally posted by Trikt@Nov 13 2004, 07:24 PM
SHOZ123: Could you snap a pic of the engine compartment and highlight the tap point, grounds, and the power-up location for a Gen2?
Do a search on my name for a post I did about putting a harness in a GenII.
 
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I just did Anonda's car this past weekend. I wasn't planning on it, but the passengers side had a bad pigtail, causing that light to be a lot dimmer than the other.

I made my own harness from relays I had from parts cars, Gen 2 pigtails I had from a parts car, and some wire looms I had from various parts cars.

I tapped into the one good pigtail for the power to switch the relay, and used 2 separate relays, one for low beam and one for high beam. I attached the power lead to the large stud on the end of the megafuse block under the hood, and grounded back to the stud on the fender behind the battery. I used 12 ga. wire for everything, along with inline fuses on the power leads.

So far so good, except that I tapped the wrong hi and lo beam wires. With the brights on, they're low beam, with the brights off they're high beam. <_< I'll fix that next weekend, not that big of a deal really. I did notice a difference in the low beams though, they seem a lot brighter even with stock bulbs.

Like Paul said though, a premade harness is the way to go if you don't have a bad pigtail like I did. It took me about 4 hours to do all this.
 

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So that was what was causing the problem. Makes sense now... :rolleyes:
 

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ask mcgillis and rubix the difference a couple relays and some thicker wire can do even with the ghetto wiring installed you can tell one HECKUVA difference...I"ll post some pic shortly
 
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