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Have a 1990 Wagon with the bigger of the 2 V6's. Engine has a hard vibration when it runs. Someone told me it may be the Harmonic Balancer.

How hard is the Harmonic Balance to replace?

Steve
 

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I'm doing that this week on my 88 3.0 wagon. May be less complicated than it looks, sort of like R&R pulley on a pwr steering unit. Need a special tools, loaners at AutoZone.. is aligned on shaft by male & female notches not visible from front. Will let you know how it goes. See infor in Haynes & Chilton's. Not complete (as usual) but will get you organized.
 

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Had to change a harmonic balancer on my '88 Buick Park Avenue. After removing the front tire, and wheel well access cover, I tried using an impact wrench. Didn't have enough torque, I ended up using a cutting torch to heat up the bolt, then the impact was finally able to pull off the harmonic balancer. Without an impact, I don't think you'd have a prayer of getting it off.
 
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You're going to want to JAM the Crank Bolt. Im taking about litterally sticking a pry bar to a steady frame and use a 1/2 Ratchet (may have to use a cheater bar) and torque it off. You should be able to get it loose this way. Like Metalliman said. Impacts are tons of fun. You'll have better luck with one of those. Then head out to your local Autozone and get the "Pulley Puller Set"(I used to work for them) from Autozone, and it should be straight forward from there.
Good luck, let us know if you need help.


SableSal
 

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Was concerned about the bolt, so Definitely need help. Couple of dum questions:

Meanings of

1 JAM?
2 Cheater bar (same as breaker bar?)
3 Best way to lengthen bar for more leverage?
4 Best way to keep crankshaft from rotating without harming anything while torquing it.
Thanks
 

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Well, finally got mine done. Apparently ist is more necesary than for just being ble to check/set the timing. The damper keeps the crankshaft from vibrating to the point where it can be damaged. I gather that the difficulty level varies all over the lot. Mine turned out to be pretty grueling and would have been completely impossible were it not for these boards and the friendly people who offered the hat tricks I needed to get the job done. Chiltons didn't offer them, and in fact led me astray.

There are 4 steps. 1- Getting the replacement part. 2- Taking the crankshaft bolt off. 3- removing the balancer. 4- Installing the replacement.

1- Recycler I visited sold me a damper ($50) which he said came up on his computer as a sub & it looked ok from the front. It wass from an aero. After I got mine off, however, it was apparent that it was completely different. (My feeling is that I was played. I made him give me a refund) Got a new one instead $100.

2- Bought the half inch ratchet, torque wrench, breaker bar etc. But couldn't get the bolt off. Partt of problem was to keep the crankshaft from turning. Using timing wheel pretty laborious on a transverse engine. Used something called the bump start method, supplied by Scott on Ford Taurus message board (lucidgreen). He said

"it's called the bump start method. Rest a large breaker bar on the subframe with a 19mm(I think) 6 point socket on the crank bolt. Unplug the coil pack(so the motor doesn't start on you), and turn the key. Let the starter "bump" the bolt loose for you. Only do it for a second! It will loosen up enough for you to take it off. "

I did and braced the breaker bar with short lengths of 2x4. Worked perfecctly for me.
3- Auto Zone lent me a puller which gotr the balancer off easily.

4- Install is a bitch, at least in my case. Some are lots easier. Used the installer loaned by autozone. One problem with the installer in this app. is that you can't tell how close you are to home without taking the installer off and looking at the crankshaft. I'm 210. I was doing pullups on the prybar. Couldn't get it closer than .5 cm to 'home'. But Chiltons says to install til it's flush! Removed it, used a lighter grease after boiling the balancer for 10 minutes. Got that idea from another board. Stuck a screwdriver in one of those airholes in the HB & wedged against the inside body area to immobilize shaft. Finally got on all the further I possibly could, removed the installer and was still .2 cm short. Really disappointed. Had lunch came back out and noticed how remarkably well lined up the HB was with the other pulleys. Installed the crankshaft pully and it seemed to be dead on. So I checked my old HB and sure enough there was .2 cm of corrosion around the throat. So it was on corectly & Chiltons instruction was wrong. put it back together & the belts ran straight and true and silent. Took it to a garage to have the final torque put on the bolt 140-150 ft lbs & he said it was ok as is.

Wished I had taken precise measurements of the clearances of the old HB before I removed it so I'd know when the new one was on right. Would have saved a lot of anguish. So I spent 100 on balanceer, 100 on tools & goops & still saved about 200 plus some new tools. So it was OK.

Anyway that's my story. Good luck.
 
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