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I have a brand new battery, fuel filter and gas cap on this car. Fuel pump has been replaced a couple of times recently (mileage on 2nd engine unknown); previous owner said he did not know why he was going thru 'so many' fuel pumps; he also reports last time he changed it, he lost the clip(?) that holds the electrical leads onto the fuel pump. Ignition switch is funky; tabs don't move with key. Could not test fuel pressure at rails due to lack of an adaptor that came with the gauge I borrowed from Autozone (what adaptor do you use?).

So when I try to start, the starter cranks the engine just fine, I just have to do it about 3 times @ 3-5 seconds each. Once running, it is smooth. However, it seems to lag a little when accelerating more-than-usual.

Also, how do I tell if I have a 16 or 18.5 gallon tank (with not bothering to fill it up until I get this problem sorted out-beating you wise guys to the punch.... LOL)

Thanks in advance for your help; it's actually for my teenage son...
 

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Welcome to TCCA.

Good idea atempting to check fuel pressure. I don't have an answer to your question about the fuel rail adapter. Perhaps it was missing from the kit, so maybe try another store????

In the meantime there are some other "shade tree" tests you can do that might help narrow your suspect list down some.

At KOEO, before cranking the engine, can you hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds, then turn off????

Without cranking the engine, will it start right up if you cycle the key from OFF to KOEO a couple-three times, long enough to cycle the fuel pump until it turns on & off, to prime the system, Before cranking the engine????

If it'll then start right up then ask, when last was the fuel filter changed?????

If your year/model has a return type fuel system, is the return line clear, not restricted/crimped????

Pull the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, to see if it's wet inside with fuel, if so, replace the fuel pressure regulator.

If you have a multimeter, you might back probe/check B+ to the fuel pump at the in trunk inertia switch, to see if you might have a voltage drop in the feed to the pump. Do this with a helper cycling the ignition switch on & off, so the circuit is checked with the fuel pump electrical load on it.

If the voltage feed to the pump is low, it'll make it run hot.

If the previous owner let the tank get below 1/4 on a regular basis, with a return type fuel system, it'll run hot with low fuel, as the pump is immersed in the remaining fuel to try & stay cool & that fuel is picking up more heat from the engine comparment as it's cycled back to the tank, a vicious cycle, especially in hot weather!!!!

If the fuel filter, or return line is clogged, it'll cause excessive back pressure & the pump motor won't like the extra work load.

Certain brands of gas with high sulphur content, can take a fuel pump out.

A bunch of thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
 
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