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Discussion Starter #1
So, this started happening. After she sits over night, it’ll crank 2-3 times longer than usual, then “sputters” for a few seconds, then runs fine. No problem restarting if it’s not been sitting for several hours.

I had the battery tested, and was told it’s fine, along with alternator and starter. I recently replaced the throttle body, purge valve, and fuel pump drive module (all preventatively b/c I’m close to 100k miles on my 2013 SEL). Any ideas? Maybe fuel pressure issue? How do you test fuel pressure DIY?


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As a side-note I have to say my 2013 cranks way longer than any other car. It is consistent but still it still irks me. While I have no idea how to test the fuel pressure, my other checkpoint would be IAC, though seeing how you replaced the TB did a new sensor came with it? MAF cleaning would be another, though honestly they don't get that dirty. Interesting tidbit, when I replaced the battery last month, the first start afterwards took some serious seconds, probably 4-5 which I found very odd. Just that one initial time, it's been starting properly every time since. Weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Smitty, if no fuel psi test port, may need a scan tool or Forscan/Elm 327.
Hi Sheila - thanks. I hooked up the OBD/Elm and went into FORScan, and no DTCs that would explain this condition.


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Discussion Starter #5
As a side-note I have to say my 2013 cranks way longer than any other car. It is consistent but still it still irks me. While I have no idea how to test the fuel pressure, my other checkpoint would be IAC, though seeing how you replaced the TB did a new sensor came with it? MAF cleaning would be another, though honestly they don't get that dirty. Interesting tidbit, when I replaced the battery last month, the first start afterwards took some serious seconds, probably 4-5 which I found very odd. Just that one initial time, it's been starting properly every time since. Weird.
Hi Dundun - good thoughts, thanks. I cleaned the MAF recently, and yes, the TB came new with the senator attached, I believe. I’m really hoping this isn’t the fuel pump, b/c I believe it’s integral to the fuel tank... I haven’t done that kind of DIY work before (other than fuel filters on older cars)..

I didn’t see a test port or shrader valve but maybe I’m not looking in the right place?


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Hi Dundun - good thoughts, thanks. I cleaned the MAF recently, and yes, the TB came new with the senator attached, I believe. I’m really hoping this isn’t the fuel pump, b/c I believe it’s integral to the fuel tank... I haven’t done that kind of DIY work before (other than fuel filters on older cars)..

I didn’t see a test port or shrader valve but maybe I’m not looking in the right place?


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I would think it's a cleaning issue.
You can get a 2pack MAF Cleaner/Carb cleaner at Walmart for about $7. Spray out the MAF wire, then open up the Idle Air Controller, turn it upside down and fill it with carb cleaner and let sit for 10 minutes.
Spray out the IAC intake hole with the carb cleaner as well.
Did wonders for my 2000 SES.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would think it's a cleaning issue.
You can get a 2pack MAF Cleaner/Carb cleaner at Walmart for about $7. Spray out the MAF wire, then open up the Idle Air Controller, turn it upside down and fill it with carb cleaner and let sit for 10 minutes.
Spray out the IAC intake hole with the carb cleaner as well.
Did wonders for my 2000 SES.
Thanks. I replaced the entire throttle body. Is the IAC something different? I also did the MAF spray on the MAF wires. Still hard starts when cold.. any other ideas? I don’t see any diagnostic trouble codes and there is no check engine light, which surprises me.. I want to get to the bottom of this. Any help is appreciated.


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Discussion Starter #11
This ended up being diagnosed as a bad mass air flow sensor. I replaced it and the hard starting (long cranking, sputtering) is gone. FYI, in case someone else experiences this later..
 
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