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Discussion Starter #1
Just got my body kit on Friday. I order it on the 25th of May (the last day of their sale). Now I just have to save up money to get my car painted. Almost $1600 to change the color of my car. This would include everything painted that is currently gold to the new color (under hood, under head and taillights, inside the door jams, etc.) Paint shop said they would not be able to color-match just the body kit so it would be better to paint everything. So it's going to be awhile before I will be able to put my kit on. I'm not gonna be like one of those ricers who drive around for months with their primed body kit.

The body kit has no holes drilled for it. I'll have to do that myself. Not sure how the side skirts are to be mounted. Think it is supposed to be drilled from underneath into the frame. I'm going to try some heavy duty 3M tape and see if that holds it secure enough. If not, atleast it should hold it long enough for me to get the holes drilled.

I also paid extra for the grill inserts. These are nothing more the sheets of wire mesh like I put on the front of my car before. They are not cut to fit and I have no clue how I'm going to mount them. Probably going to have to cut them to fit with and extra inch on the sides. Then I will bondo over that extra inch to hold them in place. In theory, it will work.

The only kit of paperwork included with my body kit is a receipt. There is no kind of mounting instructions and nothing telling me how to paint or care for the body kit. Hell, I don't even know what it is made out of....

Would like to hear your guy's input on this.

Derek
 

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Based on dant98's recent experience with the shipping of his kit, it doesn't seem like Andy's gives a whole lot what you do once the kit leaves their shop. Someone also posted a link to the Intrepid forums awhile back, and while the kit looked great once it was on, they had a crapload of trouble with Andy's. I would call them and try to get some kind of support. You paid enough for it!

JR
 

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Kits are fiberglass, your Bondo trick should hold it, but I'd add screws or something first, then Bondo over the top to hold it tighter and so you won't have to use so much Bondo.

Definetly do some test fits before you paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
TrueBlue > Think we are thinking along the same lines.

Did some Googling a few minutes ago and I found this site: http://vamp.darkravers.net/DIYAddingMeshGr...oFiberglass.cfm

This guy has basically made little tutorials for all his mods on his Toyota Corolla. Some decent stuff up in there too.

Here he took some peices of wire and bent them into a 'U' shape and then fiberglassed the bottom of the 'U' to the inside of the kit. I like TrueBlue's idea about using bolts instead because you can basically set the height where the mesh will be secured. Plus I think the bolts will hold it better overall.


Well atleast that part is covered.

Derek
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by detroit_raver@Jul 26 2004, 09:27 AM
good luck with everything derek. hope everything works good and can't wait to see pictures when everything is done!
Unfortunately, I'm trying to attack too many projects at one. Not only is time a big factor but cost is another big factor. I'm currently completely re-doing my stereo installation (sub box, be gone! Building up trunk), building a custom center console (all the way up to the AC vents (that should be interesting), making a custom A-pillar gauge cluster (no progress here yet), Dynamat-ing the trunk and hopefully the rest of the car, and lowering the front. I atleast want to get the stereo finished up before I get the body kit put on. I don't wanna be "completely stock" riding around with a body kit.

Priorities:
Dynamat
Stereo
Custom center console
Glow gauges (already have)
OEM spoiler (already have)
Lowering springs
A-pillar gauge cluster (shouldn't cost too much plus I will fabricate (I hope))
Body kit (mainly because this is gonna be the most expensive)

I need to remember to keep taking my digital camera with me. There aren't many pics of any of the stuff that I have done (which isn't much). Attached is my current progress of my trunk. It's not even screwed together yet. (Work and plan the details as I go. The idea has already been planned.)

EDIT: Added some stuff to the list.

Derek
 

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So what color did you decide to go with and who'd you decide to do the work? Did they give you a quote on the installation of just the kit with the body prep?I'm trying to line all of that up for when my Gen III kit. Did the kit even have "pin points" to even give you an idea of exactly where to drill? I can't wait to see whatcha got though! Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by gryphon1011@Jul 26 2004, 10:23 AM
So what color did you decide to go with and who'd you decide to do the work? Did they give you a quote on the installation of just the kit with the body prep?I'm trying to line all of that up for when my Gen III kit. Did the kit even have "pin points" to even give you an idea of exactly where to drill? I can't wait to see whatcha got though! Good luck!
My current three choices for paint are: black, really dark blue, or dark graphite.

The quote that I got was just for the painting. I'd have to put the kit on myself. Paintshop said that putting on bodykits is "expennnsive". I want to try to as much work as possible to try to lower the price. Stuff like taking the head and taillights off myself will make it cheaper.

There are no marks (that I noticed) showing me where to drill the holes. The bumpers will be easy because there are already existing holes. I figure I will drill a small hole over the body and then enlarge the hole for the hardware... It's going to be the side skirts that should be interesting.

EDIT: Oh yeah. I went out and cut the holes for my subs but, of course, don't have my camera...

Derek
 

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I actually like graphite but there is just something about a nicely waxed black car! :mike:
 

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Okay...

To keep costs down on the paint work, here's what you can do:

From what Dan's kit looks like, it seems they come primed from the factory. Run your hand over it. Is it smooth? Does it feel tacky, or moist? If either is true, you'll need to sand it lightly with some mild detergent and water, to rough the surface and to remove any mold release that's still there.

Get some black primer, and *lightly* spray over the kit, nowhere near a complete coat of paint, just enough to get some paint particles on there. Get a sanding block (don't sand straight or flat areas by hand) and do some wet 320 grit, then sand over that with 500. You can see (where the black primer is still sitting after you sand) where any low spots are. You can bondo these if you'd like (I would) and sand them flush. Make sure all of your black primer is sanded off when you're done.

If you can see the glass peeking through while you sand, you're sanding to hard/much in that area. Rinse off, dry with a tack rag, no cotton.

If any fasteners need to be attached to the kit, mount them beforehand and remove them. They'll have to come off for the kit to be painted. Before you take them off, test fit to your car! Very important step, often overlooked because people assume it will fit perfectly with no modification. It almost always won't.

The only thing you should have done on the kit by an outside vendor is paint and clear. You should be able to prep and mount the kit yourself, saving some serious $$$.
 

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You should try RAAMmatt instead of dynomat. Its cheaper and just as effective. Theres a guy who sells it for 80 on ebay, per roll of 15 inch wide, and about 52 feet. Its plenty, I just did my front doors and its works pretty well.

-Damon
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by duratecchie@Jul 27 2004, 03:39 AM
You should try RAAMmatt instead of dynomat. Its cheaper and just as effective. Theres a guy who sells it for 80 on ebay, per roll of 15 inch wide, and about 52 feet. Its plenty, I just did my front doors and its works pretty well.

-Damon
Yeah. I remember you talking about that in the past. I looked it up on EBay but couldn't afford to get it at the time. May have to get it at the beginning of the month. Doesn't this stuff smell for a week or two?

Derek
 

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The side skirts should be the easiest part. Take off an the original one and set it next to your new one and figure out where to mount the clips and mark it.

As far as color goes, Dark Mettalic Blue would be awsome, but also Candy Apple Red would be good too. Then again, they charge a premium for colors like that. Good luck and have fun.......
 

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FYI My replacement front bumper is scheduled for delivery on Monday.

-Dan
 

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Originally posted by d_sellers1+Jul 27 2004, 12:30 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (d_sellers1 @ Jul 27 2004, 12:30 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-duratecchie@Jul 27 2004, 03:39 AM
You should try RAAMmatt instead of dynomat.  Its cheaper and just as effective.  Theres a guy who sells it for 80 on ebay, per roll of 15 inch wide, and about 52 feet.  Its plenty, I just did my front doors and its works pretty well.

-Damon
Yeah. I remember you talking about that in the past. I looked it up on EBay but couldn't afford to get it at the time. May have to get it at the beginning of the month. Doesn't this stuff smell for a week or two?

Derek [/b][/quote]
Nope, it doesnt smell at all. I recommend you do it when the temp is above 60 degrees, that way the sticky backing will be really soft and easy to form to the nooks and crannies in your car. Not that you cant do it at whatever temp you want, but it makes it easier.


-Damon
 

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