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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the guy at auto zone said it could be a bad vacuum hose or a stuck open EGR im betting on the stuck open EGR. how much are those to replace and would it cause the engine to stumble in idle in park because that has been happening for a while and just now got a code.
 

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i would bet it is the egr solenoid the same thing happend to my suburban
and i just sprayed some pb blaster in the solenoid and that cleaned it out and it was fine but i dont know if you can do that to the solenoid on the taurus havent checked..

the egr around $70

egr vacuum solenoid around $25

and ya it will try to kill it at low rpms
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
is this an easy install or something i should take in. if its a simple take it off but the new one on i can do that. lol
 

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be careful trojan...ive had many a taurus (and f150s and explorers and rangers and expeditions and you get the point) come in with the MIL on and that code stored in memory - 9 times out of 10 it's due to a faulty DPFE sensor that gets stuck at 4.0v or higher. for your taurus, you DPFE value at idle should be somewhere around .9v +/- a little. if your DPFE at idle is any higher than say 1.25v then it is most likely faulty (usually they fail at one end of the spectrum or the other ie : .12v or 4.5v). some people wind up with a driveabiltiy problem on light throttle because the DPFE will be stuck at .12v or whatever and the PCM will duty cycle the EVR normally and when it sees no response it increases the duty cycle until its maxed out which can cause a buck/jerk since the engine is getting flooded with EGR... im not saying it couldnt be a hanging EGR valve or EVR solenoid but just giving you my $.02

:blink:
 

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I had the same code about a month ago... at autozone they said it was the EGR valve, but I talked to some people here and they said to check out the DPFE first, and thats what it ended up being. Since you're having trouble at idle, I would say that it's the EGR Valve.... one way to test this is to take the top vacume tube off and suck on it while the car is on... if the engine studders and almost dies, chances are good that it is the DPFE sensor and not the EGR... however, if there is no response, or the engine is dieing before you even open the hood, it's probably the valve. The sensor is an easy in-the-driveway replacement, and i would imagine the valve would be too.

one last thing- stuck open EGR can cause trouble, but a stuck closed EGR valve just increases emissions a little, no real problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i think its the EGR because the only time i have trouble is when i first start my car it wants to die and sometimes at lights the rmps rise and drop a lot. how can i perform this test and what is the DPFE
 

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Originally posted by Ryne@Jun 9 2004, 07:48 PM
one way to test this is to take the top vacume tube off and suck on it while the car is on... if the engine studders and almost dies, chances are good that it is the DPFE sensor and not the EGR... however, if there is no response, or the engine is dieing before you even open the hood, it's probably the valve.
..
 

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What code # did you get???
If it's a P0401, or a P1408... you'll need a new DPFE sensor. If it's something else, could be the valve is sticking, or the EGR passages could be all carboned up.-
Also if you've got a Rolling Idle/Stalling problem, you'll probably ned a new IAC valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i got a p0402 excessive EGR flow. i think its either the valve or the solenoid. i dont really want to buy both parts. is there an easy way to test to see which one is messed up. you said take the top vacume hose off and suck but which hose on the top of what?
 
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