Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive been using the stock system for a while now, and it seems to be getting a bit rough. Alot of bass and the front speakers rattle and buzz...not great. I like listening to alot of different types of music, especially rap, so I usually have the bass all the way up and the treble set pretty low.

So what do you think would be a good replacement brand/model for the front speakers that has plenty of bass? Note: I would prefer not have a large subwoofer if possible.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,307 Posts
I have the mach system with pioneer 2 ways and I think it sounds pretty darn good!

I also sell the mach amps and tweeters if you need any!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
The rattles may be coming from the plastic trim panels that cover the doors as well as other door parts. The way to deal with this, is to treat the doors with a products like Dynamat Xtreme or Raammat BXT2. The standard recommendation is to apply a few tiles to the exterior skin, seal completely the middle section, and then cover it with a layer of closed cell foam such as Dynaliner or Ensolite. I used "door" kit versions of Dynaliner and Dynamat, and that cost about $80 with free shipping, enough for both front doors. In the end, this will not eliminate all the rattles, but it will help, and the bass output will become better with any speakers.

In terms of what speaker to recommend, I don't really know many. I assume that you have the factory RCU. All the good speakers I know about (e.g. some polks, alpines, massive audio), almost certainly need a better amplifier, or they're not worth buying.

One speaker you can try is Pioneer A-series. Their RMS power handling is only 40-50watts and they can run off head unit power. Their bass is pretty adequate for a low end speaker, enough to rattle the door or rear deck. There is a coaxial version that fits 6x8 holes or a component version that fits only the 6.5 holes, so it will need an adapter plate with the component version. If you buy components and if you have a door tweeter from factory, replace it with the Pioneer tweeter. I personally don't like the coaxial version because its tweeter is kind of tweak, but if you say you don't need strong high or if you have a factory tweeter, that can help. Otherwise, the component version is better. The only issue is that it needs an adapter plate.

In the end, 6.5 or 6x8 speakers will not produce a lot of bass, specially if running from a modest amplifier. Most will struggle below 100Hz. I have Alpine Type R components running off 150watt rms channels. They may play well down to like 80-70Hz and then still start to roll off. Their low end is better than any speakers I have heard and they respond very well to bass EQ for some bass boost, but they're still not match for a proper subwoofer. A proper subwoofer would play primarily the bass notes from 70Hz and down, so it's not about more bass. It's about notes that small speakers simply can't play that well in the car environment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I have a Pioneer head unit and the Pioneer A series speakers and must say that I'm pretty satisfied! I like a lot of bass as well with my music but don't want to forfeit the trunk space for a sub. As far as I know, I do not have any special amplifier other than what is in the head unit I own(three years old).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
Here is what my subwoofer looks like. A subwoofer does not really have to take too much trunk space. My sub is in a sealed 1.15cu ft box, 13 inches tall. It fits in the rear of my trunk perfectly. You can see that the amplifier is much bigger than the sub. The amplifier doesn't have to be that big, but this one is a 5-channel amplifier, powering my front speakers and also the subwoofer. A subwoofer-only amplifier could be small enough be bolted to the subwoofer enclosure. I am actually thinking of getting a bigger sealed box, so this amplifier could be attached to its back. The whole setup could cost about $300 with tax, shipping, and cost of wiring, or a lot less if you go with cheapier subs and amplifier. There are subs and amps that can be had for $50-60, though I think it's worth it to go with a little better ones.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,820 Posts
I like the Pioneer on the low end as their muilti-element speakers do pretty good. For the higher end I prefer Infinity Kappa series speakers as they have crossovers built in so that each element will play only what it is supposed to play.

I like the Kenwood head units. They even have ones now dedicated to media players only.

You can only get so much bass out of the speakers. If you want a lot of bass you need subs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,022 Posts
I've always used Pioneer speakers as factory replacements (except once I splurged for Infinity).

They're the best bang for the buck. My Pontiac has Pioneers all the way around and sounds great with the Blaupunkt HU running through the Monsoon factory amp. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
Pioneer component speakers may not be the best in the world, but they're considered pretty good, specially for the price. It is generally recommended to get A-Series component set if you power them with something weak, like the head unit. If you have an external amplifier D-series Pioneers would be much better. I wouldn't recommend the cheap coaxial Pioneer speakers, specially those multiway, like their 3-way or 4-way speakers. They're just silly. I have done A/B comparison between one of them in one door and the factory speaker in the other door _without_ mach tweeter. Pioneers highs were very weak. The component versions of the same Pioneer speakers do not suffer from this problem because they have a bigger tweeter and it sits closer to your head if installed in the door sails.

Regarding getting more bass from front speaker, you can get pretty good bass down to like 60-70Hz before a steep roll-off, depending on what you buy, but you would need to use pricier speakers that also pretty much require a beefy amplifier. Something in the same class with Polk MM, Massive Audio CK6, or Alpine Type R. You'd still need a subwoofer to play below 60Hz with authority. But in general it's better to have the front speaker that are good enough to play down to 60Hz and the sub crossed at 50-60Hz, rather than having weak speakers in front and try to use subwoofer with a high crossover point, like 100Hz to take care of the lows. Most car subwoofers sound pretty sloppy with high crossover points, except of a few somewhat more expensive, SQ oriented subwoofers.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top