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I just bought a Mach RCU and tweeter set from Bull Geek and need to know how to install the tweeters. Bull Geek is a great seller, BTW!! Certainly would do business with him again.

I found a diagram on AutoZone on how to remove the door panel on my 2006 Taurus, but I couldn't find any info about installing the tweeters.

Does anyone here have a step-by-step guide (hopefully with pictures?) to remove the door panel, remove the current mirror backs, install the tweeters and wire them up to a car that is not wired for them?

BTW: I did find a tutorial in the topic finder about removing door panels, but the pictures were from a 1999. The tutorial there said to undo 2 screws and lift the panel off. The diagram from AutoZone says that I have SEVEN screws to remove. So hopefully the correct information for a 2006 will be provided.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

_erin
 

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I can't comment on wiring the mach tweeters (I have aftermarket component tweeters) but placing tweeters into tweeter pods should be easy. Look at the black triangle sails in the doors. If you look close, you will see the crack that separates the cover from the sail assembly. Insert a flat head screw driver and gently push it. The cover should come off. Now tweeter pods are exposed. There are two screws that hold them in place. When I was installing my tweeters, I took the pod off, inserted the tweeters. I used some foam strips to secure them in place to prevent them from falling out since they were not exactly the same size as factory pods. Then I put everything back in reverse order, except that I used mach tweeter grilles I bought from a board member instead of the solid black "non-tweeter covers" my car came with.

I have no idea how factory tweeters are supposed to be wired. I believe someone mentioned that there is an inline crossover. Do all Tauruses come with it, or just the ones with premium audio?
 

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Only SEL's came pre-wired for tweeters in Gen 4's. You're gonna have get some wire hook it up to the tweeters and splice it into the speaker wires running to the main 6x8's in the door. All the mounting is easy. Start with unscrewing the screws along the door, then pop out the push pins around the door (be careful they are easy to break). Once the door is off you will see a bolt holding in the non tweeter panel. You will also need to pop off the cap on the non tweeter panel to get at the other bolt. Once thats off its just a matter of putting the tweeter in the pod then bolting the pod to door. Then you just have to do some wiring and that's it.

Heres a pic of mine with aftermarket tweeters.
 

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Wiring up your tweeters.
You will need (click underlined link for pics)
• 4 Butt connectors (pink colored in pic, can be other colors)
• 4 T-taps
• Crimp tool (mine looks like one in box) …also needs to be able to strip wire.
• 4 strands of wire long enough to reach from the door wire to the speaker (give yourself
plenty of extra) Speaker wire works fine…somewhere around 16 gauge wire or so.
• Phillips head screwdriver (smaller in size)
• Flat head screwdriver
• Smaller sockets, ranging from around 5 to 8mm
• Needle nose plyers or similar plyers.
I have shipped the items as they should be installed. Do not install the grilles onto the
speakers until you are done!
*note* it is up to you if you want to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. You are
working with live electrical wires if you leave it connected…it is your choice.
• The gray plastic area on the side of the dash is removable and makes removing the last
screw MUCH easier. Wrap a flat head screw driver in a cloth and insert it between the
dash and the plastic piece and pull it up. Don’t be afraid to give it some pulling. When
it gives away, it will fold outwards, in the same angle as the door. So open it like the
passenger or driver door with the “hinges” facing the windshield. Once it is 45 degrees
away from the dash it should pop out.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2388.jpg
• Remove the door panel. There is an assortment of screws to remove. There are two in
the door grab/pull area, along with 1 on side with the door hinges, two along the bottom,
and two along the sides with the latch. Remove them. The two screws that go into the
door handle are different from the others
• This is where it requires a little pain. Look at the provided picture to get an idea…those
orange plugs hold the door to the interior door skin (where a “female” inserting location
is”). The male plug has rings on it that hold it into the door. Firmly grasp the door panel
by shimming your fingers under the door panel and pull away in the areas indicated in
the picture. When you think you have it off, work the door panel towards the front of
the car to get the door panel out from the panel while pushing the door lock plunger out
from the door panel.
• Now disconnect the electrical quick connects on the back of the door: http://
i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2386.jpg
• Now that you have the door panel off, your car has a black plastic cover opposite the
door mirrors. First, use the same screw driver wrapped in a cloth to pry off the plastic
cap. Very easy to do, takes zero force. You should see two screws, around 5-6mm
socket should remove them. HANG ON TO THEM. Once you have removed them, pull
the mirror cover towards the door lock plunger.
• Take the tweeter housing and insert it in the reverse way you removed the mirror cover.

You will see two screw holes hopefully (may require adjusting the tweeter some). Make
sure the mirror is seated properly and the edge is ON TOP of the window trim. Go
ahead and hand tighten the screws into place. Make sure the tweeter housing wiring
goes through the bottom cupped area as seen in the picture.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2389.jpg
If you have the gray connector in the door, all you need to do is plug the tweeter cable
into it (just remove the provided clipped on donor harness. And you are done! No more
steps required! otherwise...continue on...
This may or may not require you to peel back the gray or clear water liner. Try to trace
where the plastic connector for the tweeter connection snaps in. Snap it into place.
You can see the gray connector in this picture:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2387.jpg
This is where things get interesting. Remove the speaker (using a 6mm?) socket, the 4
bolts. Next pop the speaker out and remove the quick-disconnect.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2399.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2394.jpg
MAKE NOTE::!!!::Ford wired the tweeters different in the 2000+ models, but yield the
same output as the 96-99 models. Your tweeter setup may have the 4-wire output (2
of the same). If so, read on...otherwise move to the next part. Regadless, you will
notice there are two of the same color wire in each sleeve running down to the speaker.
You only need 1 of each color to match up with the ones below. I'm leaving it up to you
decide how you want to approach this. You could unwrap the shrink rap and snip out
the wire, snip the wire and rip it out...all up to you.
Now grab two butt connectors and your wire. You are going to slide two wires from
where the tweeter wiring ends, to that quick connector for the speaker. Make sure you
leave enough wiggle room so the wire can still attach to the speaker itself. If you cut
too much, you can pull it back to keep it from jamming up in the window track. Run the
wires following the OEM path down towards the bottom of the door, through the hole.
You may have to pull/cut the water liner a bit and it’ll require force, but it will work. The
water liner is the gray or clear plastic shield that keeps moisture out of the interior of the
door.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2396.jpg
Now take the butt connector. Strip back about ½ to ¾ inch of wire shrink on both the
original tweeter wire and the wires you are running to expose the wire. Twist each end
of the wires to make them stiff and bunched together. Slide the butt connector onto one
end. Now take both and line up the wires so both are well inside the butt connector.
Crimp both ends of the butt connector firmly. You should be able to give a slight tug on
both ends and they shouldn’t move. They both should be making contact inside and











no wire should be sticking outside the butt connector. Take some electrical tape and
wrap that connection up. Repeat this for the other wire. You should have two wires that
are crimped w/two butt connectors with wire running down to the door speaker quick
connect.
• You are going to use the T-tap to connect to those two speaker wires that turn into a
quick connect…to the tweeter wires you just ran. Remove about 1 inch of that vinyl
wrap around the speaker wires that have the quick connect. (Make sure you slide the
t-tap up as far as you can…just incase at a later date you remove the tweeter, you can
remove the t-tap and then use butt connectors to rejoin the wires.) Take the t-tap…slide
the wire that you want to cut into, and the new wire (it’ll be obvious) what goes where.
Just trace the wiring colors from above, down to your quick connect. See they match
up:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/beachbum86/00Taurus/InsideDoorPanel/
IMG_2396.jpg
• Fold the t-tap cover over the metal tab…verify your wires are correctly inserted and
crimp down on that clamp until the metal slider fully seated. The t-tap will snap over the
bottom. Do this on the other wire as well. Make sure you use electrical tape to wrap up
both t-taps to prevent any moisture from entering. Once you have both t-taps wrapped
up properly and are satisfied with your work, reconnect the quick connect to the speaker.
• Reinstall the speaker with just a couple of the screws. Reconnect the negative battery
terminal if you removed it. Put your car in accessory mode (opposite the turning
direction of starting the car), and turn the radio on. Verify sound is coming out of the
tweeter and the bottom speaker. If so, congratulations! Turn the car off (no need to
disconnect the battery right now). Pull up on the wire you ran, that goes down to the
speaker until you get a little resistance, not too tight though. Tape the wire down to the
water barrier if you want or just let it hang. Make sure it won’t interfere with any push
pins or get jammed up if it’s left loose. Tape it to the water barrier with some tape that
has enough stickyness, such as shipping tape. Put the other two screws back in for the
speaker.
• Get your door panel and reconnect the connections for the power locks and power
windows. The door panel installs just like you removed it. Play with the door handle and
the door lock plunger to get the door panel situated right. Use the gray plastic plugs on
the back of the door panel to line it up properly on the door panel. Once you have the
door panel aligned properly and each of the push pins sitting in the hole opening, push
the door panel back onto the door. It will require force, but it will snap back into place.
Reinsert the screws in the places they were removed. Put the car in accessory mode
again, verify your power window works and your power locks work.
• If all seems to work, congratulations, you have wired in your tweeters!
All pictures: InsideDoorPanel pictures by beachbum86 - Photobucket
 

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when installing the mach grills for the tweeters, I noticed that the bracket is missing on cars not equipped with the tweeters. How do you secure the grills without the bracket?
 

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Chingon you forgot to mention, Credit to Bull Geek since you copied and pasted the instructions I wrote :) lol

brian, you need to grab the assembly that tweeter grilles snap into, otherwise you can't mount it factory like in your car.
 

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awsome i didnt know i could just wire them to the speakers, because there is few places to get power from on the door of a NON sel, im going to grab a set of tweeters and wire them up soon!
 

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Yes, you can tap into the midrange door speakers for signals to your tweeters. The tweeters will need filtering caps to block mids and lows to prevent blowing them out. (A passive crossover if you will)

If the tweeters come with the filter caps, you're good to go. If not, we need to figure out the usable frequency range of the tweets and what ohmic load they are. (2, 4, 8 ohms or other) Knowing these details, we can come up with the proper Cap value for your tweeters.

Consider silk or soft dome tweeters as they are smooth and accurate. Metal dome tweets can be harsh and overly bright.

The one thing we don't know, is how the Mach amp system filters and powers factory tweeters. Before buying anything, it would be wise to know the power ratings for the factory amps and their frequency limits.

FYI: That why a lot of die-hard DIY'er bypass factory amped systems, (Bose, Monsoon & Ford Mach Series) and go Aftermarket all the way.

Many want to create their own system from scratch and dump factory engineered systems that just don't cut it. You may be in that category.

Kurk
 

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The standard issue tweeters and the ones with a MACH badge on the grill have a crossover wrapped in foam on the tweeter side of the gray connector in the door...unless someone snips it off for some reason.
 

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2003 Ford taurus Centennial Edition
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I realize this an old thread, but help please if possible. On my 2003 Centennial currently there are no tweeters. Am I to believe, since this is basically an SEL Premium, that the wiring is already there? what 2001+up vehicles in the J/Y would I find the tweeters, or are they still available from Ford. I've located some but confused about which ones, could someone let me know the official name or possibly the part number. also what are the grille numbers?
 

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I realize this an old thread, but help please if possible. On my 2003 Centennial currently there are no tweeters. Am I to believe, since this is basically an SEL Premium, that the wiring is already there? what 2001+up vehicles in the J/Y would I find the tweeters, or are they still available from Ford. I've located some but confused about which ones, could someone let me know the official name or possibly the part number. also what are the grille numbers?
Any Taurus or Sable from 1998 and up can have them. Lots of people have them. You'd need the RCU in the trunk to take advantage of it, though.
 

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2003 Ford taurus Centennial Edition
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Does anyone know if the Centennial came with the Mach system? On my dealers window invoice it only states "AM/FM CASS W/6 DISC CD"
 

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Does anyone know if the Centennial came with the Mach system? On my dealers window invoice it only states "AM/FM CASS W/6 DISC CD"
The Centennial Package was only available with the the SEL Premium Array (order code 420A) which included the Mach Audio system.
 

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No tweets = no mach, unless both doors were replaced (hopefully not!!) or the tweets were removed.
 

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Centennials could be ordered without Mach Audio, just like they could be had without the Comfort and Convenience package (auto dim mirror, etc).
 

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I have the comfort and convenience pkg.(auto dim mirror is installed), however I do not have the premium array sound (no door tweets). Guess I'll be getting the mach system then. I need to find the door tweeter covers, I have a line on a setup from durasel..
 

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The tweets I have include the mach grille covers..... :)
 
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