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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello friends i got some questions on upgrades for my 2005 Taurus SE as of right now its 100% stock (other than the tint, 5% in the back and lip on the windshield, darkest legal in the front) what i have planned so far are as follows:

Infinity 680.9cs x 2 pair (front and back)
Pioneer AVH-X7500BT head unit
Kicker Comp R x 2 12" subs
Hifonics BRX2400.1D amp for subs
Hifonics BRX1200.4 amp for mids/highs

Now i realize that is all system related but my questions now are for anyone that has a system what size of battery can you fit for good performance? I obviously can go to autozone and get a "yellow top" duralast/optima battery but was thinking i may need something else or stronger? Also anyone have any experince installing a Mechman 250a Billettech 6phase Alternator or recommend another upgrade? I have done a lot of research but i just want to make sure im not overlooking something or understanding everything. I also was interested in rims/HID's however i know nothing about either, would want 20's or maybe 22's depending on if i would have to do suspension work and also what kind of brake upgrades can be done or can i just throw any big brake kit i want on it? Sorry if i sound so green but im more of a tech head and i'm trying to learn more about cars.
 

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#1 rule of modding, make sure your engine and transmission and everything else is good before spending money on other stuff. You don't want to end up with a $1,500 sound system but a misfire :p If you want HID's they aren't too hard to install. Don't get them really blue because it just looks stupid, 6K is good enough. I don't see why you want better brakes? It's a Taurus not a race car, stopping 200 horsepower doesn't require more than whatever the factory put it
 

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I agree completely with Simon182. Before spending a dime on any upgrade, make sure everything is in good working order. No point spending money on bigger brakes unless you are making big power. The factory brakes will work just fine for the power you have.
 

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IIRC, you would have to do some suspension mods to fit 20s, and since it's an uncommon bolt pattern (5x108), rims are going to be expensive. I can either suggest you get a pair of Gen 3 SHO chromies, or do a DIY on your current wheels and remove the paint, and sand the aluminum down until you get a polished finish. Like in this thread on the Acura Forums:

http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23550

You can also get Centennial Edition headlights with brighter bulbs, but if you're going to do HID, don't be a ricer and fit HID's into Halogen housings, do a retrofit like member Roach did to his car.

You can also do the Amber turn signal mod (on the rear), you can find that here:

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/116-aesthetics-interior-wheels-tires/114646-adding-amber-turn-signals.html

Other than that, there's no need to go all out with mods unless you're 100% sure you're not going to be spending the money on repairs in the near future.

@Simon

It's a 2005, for that year, only option for the Duratec was on the SES or SEL. So therefore this is a Vulcan, meaning it has 155 HP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So even though i want bigger rims stock brakes should work fine? The car itself runs great, rather high miles almost 150k but drives like a dream. If anything my current brakes are going to need to be replaced, noticed they were bad when i first got em got pads but didn't make that much of a difference however if i can just get a brand new replacement of stock brakes then that will save me some cash! 6K looks pretty clean, i always liked the 12k but i literally need HID's because my eyes are bad at night so not really going for more of a look just trying to get better performance than stock 3200K. I saw his and i like that im assuming the back doesn't have to blacked out and can be modded to look like a stock headlight?
 

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So even though i want bigger rims stock brakes should work fine?
I saw his and i like that im assuming the back doesn't have to blacked out and can be modded to look like a stock headlight?
Why do you want bigger rims? They're a waste of money just to look 'cool.' They slow you down (slower over bumps so they don't scrape) and you have a higher risk of someone stealing your car because it has 'dubs.'

You can have them painted body color if you want! :p
 

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Anything bigger than 17" aftermarket wheels on the Gen 4 body looks like ****.
 

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I've never been a fan of mods. Save your money and pay cash for your next car or spend the money on a newer model. You never get the money back when you sell it, I never look at cars that have mods because you never know how badly the car has been abused. Also I drive in the city and it seems to me that you're never far from an accident that will total the car and the insurance is only going to pay you the book value of the car. And if you think the brakes aren't that good, either you're not used to them or you may have a master cylinder/brake booster problem.

The main problem with bigger rims besides those mentioned about is that the tires and rims cost a lot more money and because the tires are low profile, it's much easier to crack the rims or blow out a tire when you hit a pothole.

Or save your money and put it in something like Vanguard Index 500, tracks the S&P 500 and it's up about 19% for the year and up about 18% over the last 3 years. If you had put 10k in it 3 years ago, it'd be worth around $16.5k today. If you put 10k worth of mods into a car, how much do you think it'll be worth in 3 years?
 

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Hmmmmmmm. Between Simon & HenrySel, Henry's advice is almost epic. The best advice besides invest your money in stocks, and mutual funds is to save your money for a newer car that has all this stuff standard. By the time I am done with all this modding. I would have been better off just buying a 2010 SHO. The money and time adds up. But I don't know your age or your job situation; it makes sense to make sure everything else is in order first. So you are prepared to make a educated decision if your transmission goes out. If I were you I would be prepared to replace the things that usually "go" on high mileage cars.

I trust you had the [[TRANSMISSION FLUSH & FILTER CHANGE]], are your tires still good & aligned, did you have a tune up: wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, regular oil changes, K &N air filter, cabin filter replacement, BIG 4 in 0/1 gauge. New rotors, pads, and drums. Coolant flush, new brake fluid. New Gatorback pulley belt?, Hows your idler pulley? Did you check the condition of your hoses and or swap out all your radiator hoses including the heater core hose. Only after (abbreviated and far from complete) list that would I start modding if you are absolutely bent on doing it and can't be talked out of it.

At my job all the guys my age and older ALL have brand new 2013 rides. All this running around trying to make my car look modern is laughable and I know I am crazy but I am too far into the modding rabbit hole to stop when I am nearly 60% done. But my rational is to save you all the headaches if you don't have the cash to maintain the car before you start modding A modded out car that is sitting because it broke down and if its because you spent all your repair money on 20" rims and mods wouldn't make much sense. Plus if you go all out you will find out that you just bought a new car of some sort. Plus if there are not enough yards in your area you will be at the mercy of others to acquire the parts off of 7-14 year old cars.

Anyway, your choice of Alt sounds excellent and PM santaclawz since he has that brand of alternator and Santa can tell you what to expect. Mechman didn't have a Taurus alt that made more than 180-240Amps 3 years ago when I called him so I went with DC Power Engineering. I have the DC POWER XP270 and it is BAD. It wouldn't fit though and I had a shop that works on Lambo's and other high end German cars on the phone with the guy at DC Power Engineering who built my alt and they decided they had to cut away some cooling fins :-( to make it fit and I got to keep my 2 warranty ...that was almost 3 years ago. I do get around 15 volts or more at times and my system literally "rocks". But The unpleasant news is that my "check charging system" light and "battery" light IS always ON. Dc power can fix this for you before they ship the alt to you but..I think I will keep mine the way it is for now :). My Bull's rear end may not be able to "twerk" or my front doors may not "flex" with a special adjustment made to the alternator to play nice with the Fords electronics. 200 true amps at idle is no joke.

You can get a Kinetics car audio battery (call the company) or you can have someone fabricate a battery box for you and you can fit an Optima D31 under your hood. PM Bassyounggunzs he had it done the right way.

On your dubs; It may not be wise to go over 17" rims but if you want them Y-Not. Nobody has to like them but you and the risks have been duely noted. But wouldn't SHO Chromies be sweet on some Pirelli's?

Since you have a system your going to need to save about $500 and more since the weight of your stereo will make your bull sag and its only a matter of time so it can be planned preventative maintenance or when you get Sagging "ahem" Syndrome and it can't be ignored any longer. You can make this repair when you install your 10" (looks good but doesn't do much to stop the car) rear disks. If you want to break your passengers's nose on windshield brakes put mustang brakes on your bull. The rear disks are just for looks and your stock front brakes really are good enough.

These are mods I either have done, have the parts to do or I may plan to do (this isn't a complete list)....I can't turn all the card over yet :)

*Leather seats
*Heated seats
*Power passenger seat
*Spoiler
*Centennial headlights
*HIDS with the right projectors proper aimed
*12 gauge headlight harness
*Foglamps/ DRL LEDS
*DRL HIGH SJB swap
*Autolamps
*Door handle keypad
*Floorshift mod
*Puddle lamps
*Autodimm compass mirror
*Adjustable brake pedals
*Pedal pads
*locking glove box mod
*New carpet
*Woodgrain: steering wheel, shifter knob,radio bezel & front door switch covers.
*Switchback turn signals
*Full interior & exterior halogen to LEDS swap
*Footwell lights
*Courtesy lamps
*Chrome pulls
*Rear discs from a 97-99 Bull/Sable
*EATC conversion.
*Push to start button
*rear turn signal mod
*Remote start
*Tint windows
*Dual Magnaflow muffler exhaust with chrome tips
*rust prevention regiment


Anyway I hope that helped or at the very least provided some food for thought.
 

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At my job all the guys my age and older ALL have brand new 2013 rides. All this running around trying to make my car look modern is laughable and I know I am crazy but I am too far into the modding rabbit hole to stop when I am nearly 60% done. But my rational is to save you all the headaches if you don't have the cash to maintain the car before you start modding A modded out car that is sitting because it broke down and if its because you spent all your repair money on 20" rims and mods wouldn't make much sense. Plus if you go all out you will find out that you just bought a new car of some sort. Plus if there are not enough yards in your area you will be at the mercy of others to acquire the parts off of 7-14 year old cars.

Anyway, your choice of Alt sounds excellent and PM santaclawz since he has that brand of alternator and Santa can tell you what to expect. Mechman didn't have a Taurus alt that made more than 180-240Amps 3 years ago when I called him so I went with DC Power Engineering. I have the DC POWER XP270 and it is BAD. It wouldn't fit though and I had a shop that works on Lambo's and other high end German cars on the phone with the guy at DC Power Engineering who built my alt and they decided they had to cut away some cooling fins :-( to make it fit and I got to keep my 2 warranty ...that was almost 3 years ago. I do get around 15 volts or more at times and my system literally "rocks". But The unpleasant news is that my "check charging system" light and "battery" light IS always ON. Dc power can fix this for you before they ship the alt to you but..I think I will keep mine the way it is for now :). My Bull's rear end may not be able to "twerk" or my front doors may not "flex" with a special adjustment made to the alternator to play nice with the Fords electronics. 200 true amps at idle is no joke.

You can get a Kinetics car audio battery (call the company) or you can have someone fabricate a battery box for you and you can fit an Optima D31 under your hood. PM Bassyounggunzs he had it done the right way.

On your dubs; It may not be wise to go over 17" rims but if you want them Y-Not. Nobody has to like them but you and the risks have been duely noted. But wouldn't SHO Chromies be sweet on some Pirelli's?

Since you have a system your going to need to save about $500 and more since the weight of your stereo will make your bull sag and its only a matter of time so it can be planned preventative maintenance or when you get Sagging "ahem" Syndrome and it can't be ignored any longer. You can make this repair when you install your 10" (looks good but doesn't do much to stop the car) rear disks. If you want to break your passengers's nose on windshield brakes put mustang brakes on your bull. The rear disks are just for looks and your stock front brakes really are good enough.

These are mods I either have done, have the parts to do or I may plan to do (this isn't a complete list)....I can't turn all the card over yet :)

*Leather seats
*Heated seats
*Power passenger seat
*Spoiler
*Centennial headlights
*HIDS with the right projectors proper aimed
*12 gauge headlight harness
*Foglamps/ DRL LEDS
*DRL HIGH SJB swap
*Autolamps
*Door handle keypad
*Floorshift mod
*Puddle lamps
*Autodimm compass mirror
*Adjustable brake pedals
*Pedal pads
*locking glove box mod
*New carpet
*Woodgrain: steering wheel, shifter knob,radio bezel & front door switch covers.
*Switchback turn signals
*Full interior & exterior halogen to LEDS swap
*Footwell lights
*Courtesy lamps
*Chrome pulls
*Rear discs from a 97-99 Bull/Sable
*EATC conversion.
*Push to start button
*rear turn signal mod
*Remote start
*Tint windows
*Dual Magnaflow muffler exhaust with chrome tips
*rust prevention regiment


Anyway I hope that helped or at the very least provided some food for thought.
Have you started a project log yet? I wanna see all this!
 

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Have you started a project log yet? I wanna see all this!
I am only 60% done. I am drowning in parts. When I get to 75-85% done I will start a log but it won't make sense to show the car although the interior looks great 1/2 of my mods are at 3 different storage locations and anything you see inside the car in the videos are being swapped out [shhhh!] besides the electronics. I figure I should be done buy April unless I can focus and get things right the first time around but usually I must revisit stuff a few times. I have a last week of vacation and I am going to see if I can do the impossible at that time. It looks nice now but I want the wow factor and I have a long way to go. 60% in college was failing if I remember; 85% is a B for better.
 
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