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Discussion Starter #1
ok, I am on the prowl for a Gen III SHO and I would like to know when they started using the AX4N(or do they?) for the SHOs like can someone explain which years suck with tranny problems? 96-99? thanks!
also, how much do you guys think a 96 SHO would be worth with a blown engine with 85000 miles on it and everything else looks in perfect condition!
 

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They all used the same tranny. Not alot of difference between the years. I would make an offer after I had the price of getting another motor and getting it installed. It's plenty of work and hassle.
 
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would 1500 be too much for that 96 with 85000 miles and none running... he never said weather its blown or not, just that it doesn't run
I found that I can pick up an engine for around 950 with 28000 miles all the way to $5000

i wonder how much rebuiling a SHO engine costs though.. hmm anyone done either thing?
 

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um. yeah, those v8 sho motors arent cheap by any means, even if u get the car cheap, the motor is goin to cost a good 3-4-5 grand.
 
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ok, I have found a 1997 SHO Motor with 37000 miles on it, running perfect condition for $2000 so if I can get it installed thats still a good or decent deal $3500 total.

now if I can only talk him down on the price of the car.. you know I should have jumped when I saw a red 96 SHO non running for $500 in superb condition too!
 

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Exactly right. Now you know about the cam failure situation with these cars right? Probably the main mechanical reason when you find one that isn't running. Get the cams welded. Besides you'll have some fresh seals up top and camshaft peace of mind.
 
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yeah I know about the stupid sproket failure... :( ... but hey Its not gonna stop me, if I get the cams welded there will be no problem!
 

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They started using the AX4N in the '96 SHO. All V8's have the same tranny. They're somewhat beefed up from your regular AX4N but they're still not the most reliable tranny. Count on it failing at some point. It will happen. It's just like the cams, they all will fail at some point, sounds like they already have in this car.

The consensus is that a car with a failed engine is worth $1000-$1500 tops depending on the condition of the car. Many have bought cam failures thinking that they could repair them cheaply and some have found this NOT to be the case. I wouldn't touch it unless you plan on doing the work yourself. The labour alone will shock you. ****, the cost of some the gaskets is shocking enough.
 

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I think the upper gasket set is ~$700 and the valves are $8 each. Need new head bolts too at $5 each.
 
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Ok, I did buy the 96 Black SHO with 85000 miles with bad cams off of ebay, I will be picking the SHO up within the month, and I have an engine already located with only 40,000 miles on it. I will be selling the SEL once I get the SHO running and I know everything is good, or I may wait till the summer to do the work when I'm not on college, so It will get the garage for the winter!! and yes I plan on doing the work myself, it shouldn't be that hard but it will take forever though. This is a lady owned and driven and she has no idea about why the cams failed, she really doesn't want to give it up she just needs money. and the Ford dealership said the motor wasn't a total loss they told her it just needed new cams. which is probably just as expensive, if they arn't that will be my route it would be much easier.
 

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Cams and a few valve more than likely. Take it apart and see which cam spun.

F6DZ-6079-BA is the upper gasket set, $519 last time I checked from FPN.

F6DZ-6065-BA is the head bolt, $1.49 last time I checked.

AGSF 32-FMF4 spark plug $ 3.99 ea.

Might as well consider struts and strut bushings too.

AM-910-G Genuine Ford RH front strut
AM-911-G Genuine Ford LH front strut
AM-912-G Genuine Ford RH rear shock
AM-913-G Genuine Ford LH rear shock

Around $140 each.
 

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I'd keep the SEL too if at all possible, put all your money in the sho, and drive the SEL, I'm doing just the opposite, because the cost of parts is rediculously higher on the SHO engine, but the power is close enough that it can be offset with a little more booooost.

Buying a used SHO, I keep finding more little things that are wrong with it, but I do like it too, and it will serve my purpose as a commuter.
 
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Kermit, you have a SHO? i didn't know that... cool... umm yeah i definatly can't wait to get it running again because I just Drove my Friends 99 SHO this morning now i'm just going crazy over it lol
 
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who knows.. SPACE ALLOY lol j/k is it some kind of diff material or is it because its a jap motor? or lets just leave it at its a rare motor. wasn't there only like 20,000 Gen 3 SHO's built?
 

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If you get a SHO try hard to get a 96-98 because the Sarc's are something you have to have for the full effect of the SHO comfort/Sportiness. I installed a switch this weekend and it's as different as night and day.
 

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Originally posted by Kermit@Oct 26 2004, 10:12 PM
If you get a SHO try hard to get a 96-98 because the Sarc's are something you have to have for the full effect of the SHO comfort/Sportiness.  I installed a switch this weekend and it's as different as night and day.
Oh boy, you are lucky there aren't too many V8SHOers on this forum, because that comment would open a can of worms! :blink: :)

It's like the great oil debate. Some like the SARC, some don't. I like it, but I have no qualms about replacing the $140/each SARC struts with KYBs and doing away with SARC. I have heard V8SHO autocrossers say that having the SARC on or off doesn't really play much into the track performance of the car. Others track the car in "full hard" mode only. For daily driving, having the SARC off will knock your teeth loose on anything but the smoothest of roads. I have the SARC switch but the novelty wore off after a month or so and I haven't touched it in months. I only use it to reduce the PS load via VAPS, so I salvage a few HP down low before the VAK kicks in and cuts the VAPS anyway. I have never noticed a true benefit in cornering with the SARC in full hard mode, but maybe there is one and I just can't feel it. :headscratch:

After hearing the opinions of people that have had SARC and non-SARC replacements, it seems that the SARC strut is a very good strut, but perhaps not worth the $140 price tag when you can get similar performance out of a KYB GR-2 or other "premium" strut for less money. And then you still get to use the SARC switch as a VAPS cutout switch w/o losing ride comfort.
 
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