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Gen 4 - Duratec Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
(Beginner level instructions)
Difficulty level: 3 out of 5 for a beginner
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Here's the tools you will need:
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar
- Sockets in the following sizes: 10mm, 13mm (standard and long), 15mm (long)
- Swivel attachment
- 13mm open/box end wrench
- 10" extension
- 6" extension
- Small screwdriver
- I also had a 1/2" to 3/8" step down converter to use the breaker bar with 3/8" sockets.
- Eye protection
- Small jack (optional)

[attachmentid=20896]
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Here's the parts you will need:
- Oil pan gasket
Ford part: 2R8Z-6710-AA

- Exhaust gaskets (2 total)
Ford part: 2F1Z-5F263-AA and 2F1Z-5E241-AA
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Extra items:
- Oil (5w-20)
- Oil filter
- Penetrating oil
- Gasket remover/solvent
- Engine degreaser
- Brake parts cleaner (Non-chlorinated only)
- Anti-sieze lubricant
- RTV Silicone

[attachmentid=20897]

[attachmentid=20903]
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Procedure:

1. Spray down Y-pipe exhaust bolts with penetrating oil. Let sit overnight.

Tip: There are three areas that you will need to do this to (six bolts total). Two areas are underneath the car, the other area can be accessed through the top of the engine compartment, off of the front manifold.
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2. Raise front of car.
You don't need a jack and jack stands, I just pulled mine onto a set of ramps.

[attachmentid=20898]
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3. Disconnect negative battery cable.
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4. Use 13mm (standard) socket, 15mm (long) socket, 10" extension, and breaker bar to loosen exhaust/Y-pipe.

Tip: If you still can't budge them, try warming up the exhaust first to heat up the bolts. You can do this by turning on the car and letting it idle for a minute or two. Shut off car and try again.

**If you cannot get the required bolts loose, abort project and take to a local repair shop. You must be able to take the exhaust off to proceed.**
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5. Unplug two O2 sensors on the Y-pipe.
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6. Remove Y-pipe.

[attachmentid=20899]

Tip: I used an old jack to hold up the back end of the exhaust, this is very helpful as it is a little heavy and akward to handle when under the car.

[attachmentid=20900]
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7. Remove oil filler cap and dipstick. Drain oil, then replace oil drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 16 to 22 ft-lbs.
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8. Remove two 10mm nuts off of the stud bolts.

[attachmentid=20901]

[attachmentid=20906]

Tip: This is located on the passenger side of the oil pan. There are only two of these stud bolts. Mark the location of these bolts on the oil pan with a permanent marker.
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9. Remove Transaxle Support Bracket.

[attachmentid=20904]

Tip: Two 13mm long bolts and a 13mm nut hold this on. Located on passenger side. I had to pull back the splash guard in the wheel well and use a 6", 10", and swivel to get the top bolt.
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10. Remove Driveplate Access Cover.

[attachmentid=20920]

Tip: This is a plastic cover that hides two more bolts. The cover is held on by two plastic screws.
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11. Remove oil pan fasteners in this order and drop oil pan.

[attachmentid=20905]

Note: This diagram shows the "front of the engine", not the front of the car. This is a front wheel drive car, therefore, the engine sits sideways. The "front of the engine" is where the serpentine belt is (passenger side).

[attachmentid=20919]

Tip: Oil pan should come off very easily if not just drop off as you remove the last bolt. If oil pan does not remove easily, double check that you removed all bolts, then tap the pan gently with a rubber mallet.
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12. Remove the old oil pan gasket.

[attachmentid=20907]

Tip: Note where the silicone is on this gasket. You will need to put silicone at these two locations when you reassemble with the new gasket.
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13. Thoroughly clean the oil pan and cylinder block mating surfaces using lacquer thinner or acetone. The surfaces must be free of any residue that will keep the sealant from adhering properly. Clean the oil pan inside and out with solvent and dry with compressed air.

Tip: I used Permatex Gasket Remover. Spray on a paper towel and wipe on engine block, don't spray this directly on the engine block mating surface. You don't want to get this inside of the engine. Use same procedure for oil pan.

Also, the Permatex Gasket Remover works well but is very toxic. Do not get on your hands. I used latex gloves to protect my hands and it still started to eat through the gloves. Be very careful.
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14. Clean oil pan inside and out.

[attachmentid=20908]

This is my oil pan gently cleaned with only a paper towel to soak up the little bit of oil at the bottom of the pan. Notice how clean the pan is. I have been using Motorcraft Synthethic Blend 5W-20 oil and a PureONE oil filter for almost 80K miles and no build up, gunk, or particles in the pan. These are quality products!

[attachmentid=20909]

Tip: You can clean the pan with brake parts cleaner (inside of pan) and engine degreaser (outside of pan) and rinse thoroughly with water. Dry with compressed air or paper towels.
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You are half way done and the bottom of the car should look like this. That tube sticking down is the oil pickup tube.

[attachmentid=20918]

Now onto the installation of the new parts.
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15. Place new gasket on top of oil pan.
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16. Squeeze a dab of RTV silicone ON TOP of the gasket at the two places noted in Step 12.

Tip: I used Permatex Hi Temp silicone rated to 700 degrees, but black silicone is fine as well. The benefit to using this Hi Temp version is that you will not need to wait an hour for it to set before you retorque the oil pan.
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17. Reinstall the oil pan, being careful not to dislodge the pan gasket. Install all of the pan bolts and tighten by hand in this order. Be sure to install any stud bolts in the locations that you marked in Step 8.

[attachmentid=20914]

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18. Reinstall the oil pan to transaxle bolts. Firmly push the oil pan against the transaxle (toward the driver's side) and tighten the pan-to-transaxle bolts snugly. Use a torque wrench and tighten gradually and evenly to 25 to 33 ft-lbs.
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19. Use torque wrench to finish tightening the oil pan bolts to 15 to 22 ft-lbs. Tighten in the same order as Step 17.
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20. Reinstall Transaxle Support Bracket.
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21. Tighten retaining nuts on onto oil pan studs. Torque to 71-106 inch-lbs. (5.8-8.7 ft-lbs.).

Tip: Use anti-seize lube on these studs...mine were quite rusty.
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22. Reinstall the Driveplate Access Cover.
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23. Change oil filter.

Tip: Now is a good time to change the oil filter as the Y-pipe is out of the way.
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24. Remove and replace old Y-pipe gaskets (two total).
These old gaskets are shown for reference.

[attachmentid=20910]

[attachmentid=20912]

[attachmentid=20913]

Tip: These are two different diameters so you can't accidently install them in the wrong place. The old ones should easily pry out with a small screwdriver.

Optional: Now is also a good time to remove the O2 sensors and coat the threads with anti-seize lube. This will make it much easier to remove later on if they need replaced. There is another O2 sensor on the front manifold.
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25. Reconnect Y-pipe.

Tip: It's a good idea to coat all exhaust bolts and studs with anti-seize lube. This will ensure that everything will come apart smoothly should you need to remove the Y-pipe again.

Also, start at the front of the car and work your way back. Keep everything a little loose at first and then (starting at the front of the car) torque the Y-pipe to exhaust manifold nuts to 26-34 ft-lbs. Tighten the converter to transaxle nut and bolt to 30 ft-lbs. Tighten the converter outlet bolts to 26-34 ft-lbs.
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26. Reconnect both O2 sensors.
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27. Fill with fresh oil. Replace oil filler cap and dipstick.

Tip: RTV silicone will require at least 1 hour to harden and 24 hrs to cure. Most people just wait about an hour before adding the oil, but I'd recommend letting it sit overnight before you take it for a drive. I played it safe and waited 24 hrs. before I added the oil back into the crankcase.
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28. Reconnect battery.
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29. Start engine and check for leaks.
If everything looks good and is not leaking, pull car down off of ramps.
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Congratulations, you're done!!! :)
Give yourself a pat on the back.

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Additional tips for beginners:
- Don't be intimidated by this project.
If you can confidently do an oil/filter change, spark plugs, and belts change, you will have no problem with this repair. Just take your time and keep all of your parts labeled and in order.

My Ford dealer wanted $350-450 (including parts) to replace my oil pan gasket. I figured that if I couldn't get the exhaust bolts off I would take it to the dealer. I lucked out my exhaust came apart (hardest part of the job).

- Leave plenty of time for this job as you may run into unexpected situations.
I actually broke two sockets trying to get one of the exhaust bolts off. I had to run back to Sears for replacements.

- Use the right tools.
This is a big time and frustration saver.

- Buy quality parts.
Don't skimp here. Go to your Ford dealer and get Motorcraft parts for this project. Oil pan gasket cost about $40 and each exhaust gasket was under $5.

- Get a buddy to help you reinstall the Y-pipe.
Not totally necessary, but a huge help.

- Use eye protection when under the car.
A lot of small crap will fall from the underbody. Protect your eyes.

- More information can be found here:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/09008...irInfoPages.htm
 

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For Vulcan engine, do you have to remove the converter pipe? It looks like to can just drop the pan for 2000 taurus without removing the pipe. Comments please.
 

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Does this apply to the Gen 3 Duratec's? From the looks of it id say so, just want to make sure all the new parts i need are the same as the part numbers listed here
 

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Does this apply to the Gen 3 Duratec's? From the looks of it id say so, just want to make sure all the new parts i need are the same as the part numbers listed here
[/b]

Email Torrie at www.fastpartsnetwork.com with you VIN and he will get you fixed up cheaper than the dealership and the parts will be correct.

Mike
:thumb:
 

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I am finished changing the pan on my 2000 Vulcan. This was not a fun experience. On my car I have the Calf. emissions and therefore a pre cat on both banks of the engine. I don't believe it is possible to remove the Y pipe without removing the axle/cv joint. What I did was drop the exhaust down as far as possible. I was able to get the pan out but, I repeat, it was not fun. I struggled with it for several hours to squeeze it out. After getting the new one bolted up my next problem was getting the exhaust re-attached. I had a horrible time getting the rear bank to stop leaking and actually disassembled it 3 times before coming up with a winning combination.

#1 Applied Hi Temp silicon between manifold and pre cat flange.
#2 Lifted, with a floor jack, Y pipe so the front flange nuts can be threaded on but NOT tightened.
#3 Lifted rear bank pipe higher then exhaust manifold flange and installed upper bolt. Lower Y pipe and guide this bolt into the slot in the manifold. Be real careful NOT to let the pipe go forward and have the bolt end up under the manifold flange. If this happens you will not be able to get the Y pipe back into position without removing the bolt. I made that mistake and was eventually able to remove the bolt by sticking a long extension (2 foot) underneath the manifold and moved the Y pipe up and down until I could connect the socket.
#4 Move Y Pipe up or down to line up and install the lower bolt.
#5 Tighten up the lower bolt first.
#6 Tighten upper bolt.
#7 Tighten flange nuts on the front bank.
#8 Install starter.

Other Suggestions:

#1 I did this job alone, it would have been much easier If I had some help, I constantly had to change position from on top of the engine, to the side of the engine, to underneath the car. Just having someone to man the floor jack would have been a great help.
#2 The best way to remove/install the pre cat to manifold bots on the rear bank is to lay down on top of the engine. If you look close you can actually see both bolts. Use a 13mm socket and a single long extension (2 foot, I think) guide the socket onto the bolts with your left hand and then use your right arm to turn the bolts. (Your right hand is near the master cylinder while you do this). An air ratchet is highly recommended.

This job took me about 14 hours over two days, if I ever did it again I am sure I could cut a lot of time off, but I would not attempt this job unless I could do without my car for several days. If you choose to try it, Good luck!!
 

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This writeup gives me confidence to tackle it myself. My engine is 3.0 DOHC Gen3 (the car is 1998 SE). Is there any differences on this task please?
 

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My thoughts on this:
#1- VERY important-- Elbows and jackstands don't mix (it's purple and hurts like hell)
#2- I found it easier to remove the passenger tire to gain better access to the trans bracket in there.
#3- Paint that nasty looking trans bracket (I used truck bedliner)
#4- Don't try to attach the trans bracket until AFTER you torque down the pan bolts (oops- lol)
#5- Gasoline in a cup or bottle cleans off greasy bolts very well (stir or shake it)
#5- Don't forget to tighten the drain plug bolt (another oops)
 

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He is correct-once the exhaust is out of your way, the job is simple. Just dont be like me and wait to fix it. WHAT A MESS! But thank you for that awesome write up. I looked it all over then did the work. I love this site!!
 

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Great Write-up.

I'm about to tackle this in a friend's Mom's 2003 Taurus. Thanks very much for providing such great information.

I do have one question:

Step 9 states to Remove the Transaxle Support Brace. Do I need to support the engine/transaxle with a floorjack or cherry-picker before I un-install this from the car? I don't see any instruction or evidence that this is necessary, but its better to ask rather than be left in the dark.

Thanks, Gentlemen.
 

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QUOTE (Mumbles @ May 23 2010, 10:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806260
Great Write-up.

I'm about to tackle this in a friend's Mom's 2003 Taurus. Thanks very much for providing such great information.

I do have one question:

Step 9 states to Remove the Transaxle Support Brace. Do I need to support the engine/transaxle with a floorjack or cherry-picker before I un-install this from the car? I don't see any instruction or evidence that this is necessary, but its better to ask rather than be left in the dark.

Thanks, Gentlemen.[/b]
No support is necessary. Its just a small piece that must help brace all the Bull power coming out of the transaxle:). There is no actual weight on this thing. You will see once you get it apart that it doesn't hold anything up. Just dont be like me and put one of the studs that bolt it up in the wrong place.
 

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QUOTE (reson8ts @ May 23 2010, 11:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806284
QUOTE (Mumbles @ May 23 2010, 10:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806260
Great Write-up.

I'm about to tackle this in a friend's Mom's 2003 Taurus. Thanks very much for providing such great information.

I do have one question:

Step 9 states to Remove the Transaxle Support Brace. Do I need to support the engine/transaxle with a floorjack or cherry-picker before I un-install this from the car? I don't see any instruction or evidence that this is necessary, but its better to ask rather than be left in the dark.

Thanks, Gentlemen.[/b]
No support is necessary. Its just a small piece that must help brace all the Bull power coming out of the transaxle:). There is no actual weight on this thing. You will see once you get it apart that it doesn't hold anything up. Just dont be like me and put one of the studs that bolt it up in the wrong place.
[/b][/quote]

Thanks very much. Planning on tearing into here in a week or so. I'm gonna print this Writeup so I can have it out in the shop when start disassembly.
 

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Completed the Oil Pan Gasket Replacement on Tuesday. Not difficult at all.

The worst part was getting the bolts out of the smaller of the two exhaust flanges on the exit of Y-pipe. A little persuasion with the Impact Wrench convinced them to come out.

Thanks again for the write-up!
 

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notes on gen. 3 oil pan gasket replacement

I'm just finishing up replacement of the oil pan gasket on my gen. 3 duratec. Its pretty much the same as the gen. 4 but the y pipe is just slightly different. The differences that I can tell are:

1. You only need 1 gasket at the rear where the y-pipe meets the flex tube. Ford part #5E241

2. There's an oxygen sensor that needs to be removed before the y-pipe will drop. Its the one that is on the engine side of the rear catalytic converter. Its really tucked up in there and the whole y-pipe will hang on it otherwise. I was able to get a 22 mm open-end wrench on it to break it loose but to continue turning, I had to take a box-end wrench and saw a notch in it. I needed the 12 point increments. I also ended up sawing the wrench off short so that I could clear the y-pipe on the other end of the wrench. A bench grinder comes in handy here.

Other non-gen.3 notes:

3. I had to take a propane torch and a hammer to break loose the rear two bolts where y-pipe meets the flex tube. Just heat the whole thing up until its slightly glowing and then beat on the end of the bolt as well as the junction of the y-pipe and the flex tube. Turns much easier after that. I also ended up replacing these bolts and nuts. The ford dealer wanted about $33 with tax for them. For two bolts and two nuts? That's where I walk.

4. I believe that step 18 may be a little backwards. The oil pan gasket bolts should be torqued _before_ torquing the oil pan to transaxle bolts. At least I think this is what the autozone procedure said. I think that if it is done the other way around, its possible that the pressure on the transaxle may keep the oil pan from seating into the gasket properly.

-Steve
 

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Oil Pan Gasket Sealant

Found a diagram for the oil gasket sealant location for anyone else that may of missed this step.

Awesome step by step instructions.

 
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