[soundu]

I have a question to anyone who has flushed a Gen 3 Vulcan about there results.
Has anyone solved or reduced an overheating problem on a Gen 3 after the flush?

I have been seeing some limited information about "Hot Spots" in a head and
that it can cause flash boiling. I assume these hot spots are from crud build up
internally. (rust internally?)

So, my question is in a gen 3 Vulcan with good heads and good head gaskets,
has the coolant flushing actually reduced the coolant temperature?

My 97 with a 96 motor has new radiator, new water pump, new themostat,
had a non chemical flush at motor change and does not have brown coolant
now. It does not puke coolant, but it runs up at the top of normal
and sometimes slightly over. I also swapped the two temp senders
with no change in symptoms. It has heat hot enough to cook eggs.

The fans only seem to kick on right at the top mark of normal.
The fan resistor is hot so i assume the low speed is ok.

Unfortunately, i don't have a OBD2 scanner yet that i can read live data
on the temp sender and the fan status. An recommendations on a cheap
scanner to do this?

bob

 

[dark_fire]

Where you at?

 

[Nidan]

Don't assume the fans are ok. You need to make sure they're coming on properly. Perhaps the low speed isn't actually working, which is why the resistor is hot. Maybe the fans aren't coming on until the temp gets high enough to require the high speed fans.

 

[soundu]

QUOTE (Nidan @ Jun 22 2009, 10:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=734402

Don't assume the fans are ok. You need to make sure they're coming on properly. Perhaps the low speed isn't actually working, which is why the resistor is hot. Maybe the fans aren't coming on until the temp gets high enough to require the high speed fans.[/b]

Well, the question then is how to hot wire the low speed fan on without a scan tool to test.

On the early Gen3 taurus, the low speed fan goes through the resistor and high speed goes direct.
Only one motor winding. So i assumed if the resistor is hot, the low speed fan must have been running.
If the fans were bad, they would run on high? Would it be save to hot wire the CCRM to test?


The fan is not coming on until the dash gauge is at the top or slightly over the end of the normal range.
I swapped out both the dash sender and PCM sender with no change in symptoms.
I have enough heat inside the car to fry eggs in the winter (the opposite of a lot of people).

The true test would be a scan tool with live data so i can see sensed water temp and the state of the fans.

What i really would like to know is what the symptoms of a very small crack in the head would be if
i am not losing coolant or having it puke coolant.

bob (omaha, ne)