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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've have a 97 taurus gl which i' really like. and i have a relative who has a 2001 sable (I realize this is a taurus vs newer sable comparison rather than a straight taurus gen3 vs gen4 comparison

I like the looks of the gen 3 taurus better - from what i read in wikipedia, gen 4 style wise was an attempt to 'tone down' and conventionalize a style they thought was too radical, which is somewhat unprecidented in terms of 'updating' a car's style - usually the changes are to make it seem more up to date, 'toning down' is fairly rare. It's my guess that had the public better accepted the gen 3 styling, the gen 4 changes would have been far more subtle style wise - what occurred was more a marketing correction to a public perception, rather than a natural style evolution. In fact, i think the 2004 taurus grill was a slight return to the 96-99 style, given that the overall design had become much more accepted

But I've been picky about trying to find an exact lower milaege replacement for my pacific green/tan 150k taurus, and while available, they're kind of hard to find and not cheap. In fact, it seems like you can get a newer sable or taurus for about the same price given the same milage/condition, and they're MUCH easier to find

It does seem like my relative's 2001 sable is a 'tighter' better riding car, and still not bad looking, just a little less sporty.

How are the other mechanical aspects of gen 4 vs gen 3? are the transmissions more reliable? How about quality and reliability otherwise between gen 3 and 4? Did they work out bugs/upgrade the car?

anyone have any comments about one gen vs the other?
 

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'MT5 Plus' Wagon Builder
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Sables by design have a cushier ride than Taurus. I have both in 3rd gen skin. I did rebuild a near dead 2000 Sable that I gave away. The only thing I liked about the car visually was the trunk/ taillight area. It drove good after fixing it but the interior (woodgrain and floorshift) felt soul-less to me. Now IMO the perfect looking combination of the two would be a 2000 Sable body with gen3 SHO front clip- side skirts, four-wheel disc, five spoke 16" wheels, moonroof, a tasteful spoiler and gen3 sho interior. I've wanted to do this for a while now. The 2004 and up models seem to be more reliable due to upgrades like a better designed coolant expansion tank and transaxle (partial) redesign at the valvebody and side pan.
 

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V8's

Can't buy a V8 in a Gen 4. Yeah, you can rig one up easily enough, but you can't buy a factory V8 outside of 96 - 99's
 

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Mechanically, they are near as makes no difference identical. The "tighter" feel of your relative's could be attributed to it being newer and the bushings in the suspension have less time on them. I do have a question for you though. At only 150k, if it's running good and in good condition, why do you want to replace your car? Just go through and replace the suspension bushings, get the trans fluid flushed, do other needed maintenance, and live happily with the thought you saved yourself money over a newer car and that you extended the life of a car you like.
 

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Cake monster
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Mechanically, they are near as makes no difference identical. The "tighter" feel of your relative's could be attributed to it being newer and the bushings in the suspension have less time on them. I do have a question for you though. At only 150k, if it's running good and in good condition, why do you want to replace your car? Just go through and replace the suspension bushings, get the trans fluid flushed, do other needed maintenance, and live happily with the thought you saved yourself money over a newer car and that you extended the life of a car you like.
I agree. As long as there isn't any rust.

Overhaul the suspension, change all the fluids, tune the engine up, detail the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Mechanically, they are near as makes no difference identical. The "tighter" feel of your relative's could be attributed to it being newer and the bushings in the suspension have less time on them. I do have a question for you though. At only 150k, if it's running good and in good condition, why do you want to replace your car? Just go through and replace the suspension bushings, get the trans fluid flushed, do other needed maintenance, and live happily with the thought you saved yourself money over a newer car and that you extended the life of a car you like.

it is in good shape, actgually, it is my second nearly identical car - my previous once i had bought in 1997 (a one year old rental car with 21k), and drove it up to 168k, i was driving a lot on business, and really loved everything about the car - i got hail on it, and wanted something less shabby, so i bought an identical 1997 with 89k on it. i dont have the hail issue on this one, i really dont know how far these things go, but i would have had 230k on it if i hadnt switched (and would have hail dents), and it was about 1200 bucks for the swap (private sale buy and sell) - so part of it's the positive experience of having done that before, I've always had a fairly clean looking example

how far can these things go before they're no longer 'respectable' looking/reliable?
 

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Looks all depend on how well you take care of the body, reliability all depends on how you maintain it. 200,000 miles shouldn't be out of the question if things are done right.
 
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