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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I noticed with this new to me 87 3.0L wagon, that anytime I remove the gas cap I get this huge rush of air from the cap area. Not good. I also noticed you can smell gas fumes outside the vehicle. I was then reminded about JohnSawyer's thread here:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...haust-smell-cabin-experience.html#post1621342

So I think my plan of attack tomorrow will be to try to clean this T connector tomorrow (and replace the valve cover gaskets).

I'm currently at 1/4 tank left in the wagon and have driven around 215-220 miles. This is incredibly poor fuel economy for highway driving at 65-70mph. Tires are all properly inflated. The brakes are not dragging/sticking. I guess my next step for now should be to check for any OBD-I codes before proceeding?
 

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So I noticed with this new to me 87 3.0L wagon, that anytime I remove the gas cap I get this huge rush of air from the cap area. Not good. I also noticed you can smell gas fumes outside the vehicle. I was then reminded about JohnSawyer's thread here:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...haust-smell-cabin-experience.html#post1621342

So I think my plan of attack tomorrow will be to try to clean this T connector tomorrow (and replace the valve cover gaskets).

I'm currently at 1/4 tank left in the wagon and have driven around 215-220 miles. This is incredibly poor fuel economy for highway driving at 65-70mph. Tires are all properly inflated. The brakes are not dragging/sticking. I guess my next step for now should be to check for any OBD-I codes before proceeding?
Given the vintage of this ride, I like the "T" aperature inspection idea. I'd add the gas cap seal, vacuum lines all the way from the "T", to the intake manafold & charcoal vapor canister too, as I found my vacuum line between the "T" & purge solenoid badly dryrotted & the intake manafold vacuum line hose connection beginning to show dryrot cracks.
I've also heard of the charcoal canister developing cracks, so inspect it closely too.

Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK so I threw some cardboard down and looked around under the car. I do not see a T-connector anywhere. Maybe it's only on 3.8Ls?
(click for larger image)

(solenoid I guess since vacuum lines go in and out of it, and there's an electrical connector on the bottom.

Also have the L shaped connector between the 2 hard vacuum lines.


I can see where the black plastic vacuum line runs:


All the way up and over to the coolant tank, then around the corner and over to the firewall there it connects to a plastic connection that goes into the car

Here's my rack dripping away after sitting parked for 24 hrs...and other assorted drips/leaks.



What should I check next? The rubber lines from the intake to the solenoid are good. The line from the solenoid to the canister is OK, 7.5/10. Hard plastic line is great.

I have not replaced the fuel filter yet...I will though in the coming days.
 

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Wooops I misread the 3.0L as being a 3.8L!!!!!
If it has a T, it'll probably be located under/in the drivers side lower radiator support chanel as shown in John Sawyers photo. The purge solenoid input line will run over to the base of the T, the vapor line from the tank connects to the top right of the T & the purge canister connects to the top left of the T
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nope, I do not have a T unfortunately. I am concerned about driving this vehicle now, as the amount of vapor that releases when I remove the gas cap is very strong, I don't want to cause a fire or something if I need to get gas.
 

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OK, well it sounds like maybe the vapor recovery system isn't purging the tank like it's supposed to, so make sure the purge solenoid is operating when the engine is started & make sure the vapor line to the tank is open & not clogged, crimped, loose, or broken along the way & that the gas cap is venting.

Do you by chance have a vapor recovery trouble code stored in CM, or have a CEL lit????
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How can I verify that the purge solenoid is operating when the engine is started? Do I need to backprobe a connector?

I will trace the vapor line back to the tank to make sure it's OK. Per the maintenance records, the fuel pump and tank have never been touched, all factory.

I will also go ahead and purchase a new gas cap anyways, the old one's teather is broken, and maybe that'll help emissions.

I'll go outside and hookup my Eqqus code scanner and see what it says in next few days. This car doesn't have the check engine light option on it, so no lights on the dash for it.

I'd also like to note that the fuel pump makes a distinctively high pitch mechanical sounding "whine" when the car is running, not sure that makes a difference, or it's a characteristic of a 25 y/o fuel pump.
 

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Pump whine

How can I verify that the purge solenoid is operating when the engine is started? Do I need to backprobe a connector?

I will trace the vapor line back to the tank to make sure it's OK. Per the maintenance records, the fuel pump and tank have never been touched, all factory.

I will also go ahead and purchase a new gas cap anyways, the old one's teather is broken, and maybe that'll help emissions.

I'll go outside and hookup my Eqqus code scanner and see what it says in next few days. This car doesn't have the check engine light option on it, so no lights on the dash for it.

I'd also like to note that the fuel pump makes a distinctively high pitch mechanical sounding "whine" when the car is running, not sure that makes a difference, or it's a characteristic of a 25 y/o fuel pump.
Depending on how loud, that is likely normal. The high pitch sound.

Old ones fail by making a sound of a vibrating loose bearing. That is not high pitch. More like a grumble. Of they just do not want to start running.

-chart-
 

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To check the solenoid, you could hold on to it to determine if it clicks as a helper turns the key & cranks the engine.
To know if it's applying purge vacuum to the tank, you could loosen the tank side line & put your finger over the end if the purge valve, or insert a "T" in the line & hook up a vacuum gauge to measure how much vacuum is being applied to the tank.

My 94 fuel pump has gotten noisy since E-10 was mandated in our area. It's OEM & has about 130K on it. The noise it makes is kinda a mid tone sorta mild rough rumble, rather than a high piched whine. Mine just started making a noise one day about 8-9 years ago, but hasn't changed any in pitch or loudness, just noisy.
 

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I have noticed that "rush of air" at the gas cap, especially when the tank is almost empty on several of my Taurii. IIRC, the gas cap is suppose to have a pressure release to prevent that. Gas expands in hot weather. If the vent in the cap is not working, then it may cause a pressure build up. But are you sure it's not a vacuum you are hearing?

I have read that the canisters can get completely soaked with gas and cease to function, thus releasing gas fumes to the atmosphere.

The canister solenoid should be easy to check, since it's 12 VDC and normally closed. With no voltage, there should be no flow. With 12 VDC there should be a click and should get flow thru the valve.

If the solenoid is working, then it may not be getting a signal. I have seen on Gen 1's and read about bypassing the solenoid to keep the fumes down. Also, if the canister is clogged, then it's not going to pull the fumes from the tank. Might want to pull a vacuum on the canister to see if there is flow from the tank and thru the canister. Use a non-electrical vacuum pump.

BTW, my Gen 2 makes the same air noise at the fill cap when the tank is low. I may try a new cap to see if that helps.
 
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