Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,580 Posts
How do I tell the auto repair shop to check that and fix it ?
It is a do it your self. Drive 50-60 mph on level ground, then look at the tach. Let of the gas and note the tach drops, after a few seconds add power modestly. The tach will rise up and maybe a second or less the tach will drop showing the TQ has locked up. When you coast, the TQ unlocks letting you coast easily at low rpm. When you add power the rpm rises, and the system waits a second or less then locks up the TQ.
-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
220530[/ATTACH]
ber: 169158"]
What year is your car ?

My 2001 Taurus SE Vulcan ( @ 132.500 miles ) can only get 8 miles per gallon for local drives and probably 16-18 mpg on highways. I have a fairly accurate calculation, mine costs $.35 a mile. I am retired, use the Taurus mostly for 2-4 mile daily errands and 1-2 out of town trips a month.
i just added a picture , last time i went 23 miles and got 2.5 gallons when it started to get off the full mark ,, i just topped it again to the neck of the gas tank and only went 19.5 miles and it dropped down off the full mark around town using too much gas ,, in 2007 i topped it off with the summer blend in the summer using my ac on,,,and came off the full mark at 80 miles
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
That mileage seems reasonable for a pick up truck with that many miles on the odo. My brothers 2018 V-6 auto tacoma consistently produces 13 mpg around town, and he drives like a 90 yo priest.
,, again i topped it off even more went 19.5 miles and went off the full mark again i might try a differnt gas station
,, in 2020 with the regular gas topping off my car i could go at least 40 miles,, mabe its time to change my fuel injectors
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,580 Posts
Using Ultragage, peak mpg. Per the gage, 29.9 mpg avg speed 63.5 which was cruise set at 65, included startup and stop at end of ramp. PA I-99 mountains, 48 mile run. Cool weather so no A/C.
A/C can knock off 2-5 mpg depending on short trip vs long trip and outside temp.
Bulls up through G4.5 are geared for good throttle response, not mpg. But that effects mostly open road mpg, not so much in local driving. Dragging brakes will kill mpg in all kinds of driving.
-chart-
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
i just added a picture , last time i went 23 miles and got 2.5 gallons when it started to get off the full mark ,, i just topped it again to the neck of the gas tank and only went 19.5 miles and it dropped down off the full mark around town using too much gas ,, in 2007 i topped it off with the summer blend in the summer using my ac on,,,and came off the full mark at 80 miles
I don't recommend topping off, what with the evaporative emission system and the charcoal canister and gosh knows where fuel goes. I tried topping off once with my 96 LX, and I think a gallon and a half of fuel went in after the first click.

As others here recommend, I don't think you can get a good gas mileage estimate by filling less than half a tank, either, given the variation in how much gas goes in the tank.

I think your best bet is to have a favorite pump at a favorite gas station, so the car is on the same slope when you fill it the second time. Someone recommended to me putting the nozzle into the filler tube and then resting the pump handle in a lower resting position -- this is supposed to give the most repeatable response of the automatic shutoff. I also listen for the "filling up a bottle sound" towards the end of the fillup to make sure the pump didn't click off too soon.

On rare instances, a pump may not be properly calibrated, either from laziness or intentional cheating. I have a Scan Gauge that plugs into the OBD-II port that gives real-time engine readouts and has a trip-computer gas mileage function. Different cars may calculate fuel consumption in the engine computer differently, and the fuel usage with the Taurus varies whether you are using 10% alcohol or alcohol-free gas. I have a car of a different make that must compensate, because reported fuel burn is consistent to with .2 gallons with different gas. I think I found a 1 gallon discrepancy on one road trip at a fillup along the Interstate, and I suspect that one station was cheating because I am careful about consistent fillups as I describe above.

As to gas mileage degradation with age, my 96 Duratec was consistently getting mileage on the low 30's on the highway -- I keep to the highway speed limit for gas mileage reasons even if "10 over" appears to be what the police tolerate. After 220,000 miles and 27 years, highway gas mileage under favorable conditions (warm weather, calm winds) runs in the high 20's, a 10-15% decrease. On a BTU basis, only about 3% (about 1 MPG on the highway) should be the fault of 10% ethanol gas.

During the last 100,000 miles, the engine has been leaking oil -- my mechanic said it was from the firewall-side head gasket, but he told me the compression was OK. I suspect it might be the valve cover gasket -- I read on this forum that a Duratec was susceptible to that. It is consuming oil at the rate of 1 quart per 400 miles. The car developed a spark knock on accelerator -- a guy who got his PhD at the U in Mechanical Engineering doing combustion research told me that if the engine is ingesting oil, that is the problem. He described oil as "anti-octane" -- I know engine oil is much heavier than #2 Diesel, but generally, what makes a fuel a good compression ignition fuel that it ignites readily under engine compression makes it a bad spark ignition fuel, that it initiates burning before the smooth passage of the flame front started by the spark plug.

Maybe the reduced gas mileage was the result of the knock sensor retarding the spark timing? Maybe all that oil ingestion partially plugged the catalyst with soot? I know that the intake manifold and the "butterfly throttles" on the Duratec would be coated in oil. Tried changing the PCV valve frequently, tried a "catch can" (the cheap one I bought on Amazon vacuum-leaked and I gave up on that).

I switched to the Quaker State motor oil for older engines that is supposed to recondition valve seals. It appears that the knock was greatly reduced, but the oil consumption stayed high.

Currently this is a moot point -- I asked a question on another thread if I can repair this car without spending a ton of money after the engine locked up after flashing a Service Engine Soon and reporting a Cylinder 1 misfire on the Scan Gauge. I consider 220,000 miles over 27 years as my money's worth of service, even though the car had gotten thirstier over the last half of its life.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I don't recommend topping off, what with the evaporative emission system and the charcoal canister and gosh knows where fuel goes. I tried topping off once with my 96 LX, and I think a gallon and a half of fuel went in after the first click.

As others here recommend, I don't think you can get a good gas mileage estimate by filling less than half a tank, either, given the variation in how much gas goes in the tank.

I think your best bet is to have a favorite pump at a favorite gas station, so the car is on the same slope when you fill it the second time. Someone recommended to me putting the nozzle into the filler tube and then resting the pump handle in a lower resting position -- this is supposed to give the most repeatable response of the automatic shutoff. I also listen for the "filling up a bottle sound" towards the end of the fillup to make sure the pump didn't click off too soon.

On rare instances, a pump may not be properly calibrated, either from laziness or intentional cheating. I have a Scan Gauge that plugs into the OBD-II port that gives real-time engine readouts and has a trip-computer gas mileage function. Different cars may calculate fuel consumption in the engine computer differently, and the fuel usage with the Taurus varies whether you are using 10% alcohol or alcohol-free gas. I have a car of a different make that must compensate, because reported fuel burn is consistent to with .2 gallons with different gas. I think I found a 1 gallon discrepancy on one road trip at a fillup along the Interstate, and I suspect that one station was cheating because I am careful about consistent fillups as I describe above.

As to gas mileage degradation with age, my 96 Duratec was consistently getting mileage on the low 30's on the highway -- I keep to the highway speed limit for gas mileage reasons even if "10 over" appears to be what the police tolerate. After 220,000 miles and 27 years, highway gas mileage under favorable conditions (warm weather, calm winds) runs in the high 20's, a 10-15% decrease. On a BTU basis, only about 3% (about 1 MPG on the highway) should be the fault of 10% ethanol gas.

During the last 100,000 miles, the engine has been leaking oil -- my mechanic said it was from the firewall-side head gasket, but he told me the compression was OK. I suspect it might be the valve cover gasket -- I read on this forum that a Duratec was susceptible to that. It is consuming oil at the rate of 1 quart per 400 miles. The car developed a spark knock on accelerator -- a guy who got his PhD at the U in Mechanical Engineering doing combustion research told me that if the engine is ingesting oil, that is the problem. He described oil as "anti-octane" -- I know engine oil is much heavier than #2 Diesel, but generally, what makes a fuel a good compression ignition fuel that it ignites readily under engine compression makes it a bad spark ignition fuel, that it initiates burning before the smooth passage of the flame front started by the spark plug.

Maybe the reduced gas mileage was the result of the knock sensor retarding the spark timing? Maybe all that oil ingestion partially plugged the catalyst with soot? I know that the intake manifold and the "butterfly throttles" on the Duratec would be coated in oil. Tried changing the PCV valve frequently, tried a "catch can" (the cheap one I bought on Amazon vacuum-leaked and I gave up on that).

I switched to the Quaker State motor oil for older engines that is supposed to recondition valve seals. It appears that the knock was greatly reduced, but the oil consumption stayed high.

Currently this is a moot point -- I asked a question on another thread if I can repair this car without spending a ton of money after the engine locked up after flashing a Service Engine Soon and reporting a Cylinder 1 misfire on the Scan Gauge. I consider 220,000 miles over 27 years as my money's worth of service, even though the car had gotten thirstier over the last half of its life.
what kind of scan gauge did you buy that trip meter milage function,,when i bought my mercury sable in 2000 with 66,000 miles ,, today it only has 133,000 miles on my car ,, i do have a motor oil leak my leak coming from the motor oil sencor on the front side of block ,, both valve covers are dry as well as top of the motor ,, i had the lower manifold replaced as it had a vacumm leak,and got a differnt one and made sure all the butter flys had no motor on them, replaced upper and lower gaskets and a complete tune up ,, i got better gas milage with the non ethonal gas ,, today i beleave there putting more then the 10% ethonal in the gas i heard as high as 15% ,,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,580 Posts
what kind of scan gauge did you buy that trip meter milage function,,when i bought my mercury sable in 2000 with 66,000 miles ,, today it only has 133,000 miles on my car ,, i do have a motor oil leak my leak coming from the motor oil sencor on the front side of block ,, both valve covers are dry as well as top of the motor ,, i had the lower manifold replaced as it had a vacumm leak,and got a differnt one and made sure all the butter flys had no motor on them, replaced upper and lower gaskets and a complete tune up ,, i got better gas milage with the non ethonal gas ,, today i beleave there putting more then the 10% ethonal in the gas i heard as high as 15% ,,
Back on post #24 Ultragage that can be bought but I doubt '00 has the internals to support mpg. My '03 had the data in the PCM but the cluster did not have any display so it was future use. So I could access that with Ultagage. Mine now broken.
-chart-
 

·
Registered
2001 Taurus SE Vulcan @ 131,500
Joined
·
423 Posts
I asked a person the other day what kind of gas mileage they were getting, they said "well I just filled up last week".
People in general are annoyed by the question and many don't bother to calculate mpg, except a few like me live on tight budget make it a matter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,580 Posts
People in general are annoyed by the question and many don't bother to calculate mpg, except a few like me live on tight budget make it a matter.
My daughter told me, lots of people do not get it: driving faster uses more gas. She deals with lots more people than I.
Some math.
Take 1000 miles, about 2 good days of driving.
At 70 mph time 14.29 hrs. at 65 15.38. Difference, 1.1 hrs driving faster, about half hour per day.
Assume, 22 mpg at 70, and 25 mpg at 65.
Gas used, 45.45 at 70. 40.0 at 65. Extra gas at 70 = 5.45 gal.
Cost about $25.20.
To save 1.1 hours.
Cannot guarantee my math or assumptions.
-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Just did 450 miles in my 2007 Taurus, mostly 70-80mph on the freeway, my MPGs on my cluster went up to 22.5mpg by the time I was done driving. This is with the AC running and tire pressure a little higher than recommended. I think it would of kept going up if I went farther, not sure what the moving average is on the cluster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,580 Posts
Just did 450 miles in my 2007 Taurus, mostly 70-80mph on the freeway, my MPGs on my cluster went up to 22.5mpg by the time I was done driving. This is with the AC running and tire pressure a little higher than recommended. I think it would of kept going up if I went farther, not sure what the moving average is on the cluster.
I made a trip, 1350 miles each way, every 2 months from '95 through '00. On the open road, I-70 from Columbus OH to KC KS About 800 miles of boring. FLAT. Used Lin Cont. '91, '93, '96, In a stretch of 20+miles, I reset the mpg to keep from boring. I could get a range of 20-27 on the same tank of gas, same speed. Wind is the big killer, A/C (ambient temp) makes a difference, but once the inside is cool very little. Side wind as bad as head wind. We would spend the night in two motels. Best mpg would usually be the first 2 hours in the morning after leaving the motel about 7:30. Cool and minimum wind. MidWest has wind 99% of the time by my estimate.
In the calm, 70mph vs 65mph the wind resistance goes up 15%.
-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
has any one have problem with the regular gas we buy today at a gas station ,, i just filled up my mercury sabe 2 days ago and today i decided to top it off today and i only went 23.5 miles i set the trip meter and my car took 2 gallons to top it off ,, with this isnt this around 11 miles per gallon around town or am i doing it wrong ,,,eather some thing is wrong with the gas we buy or somthing wrong with my car ,, i had my car tuned up 5 months ago ,, my car is a 97 mercury sable 24 valve dohc motor ,, i used to afford buy the non ethonal gas i got way better gas milage ,, i think they are watering down the gas too much,, my car is rated 22 miles per gallon around town and 28 miles per gallon on the hiway
I looked through the responses to your question. Unless I missed it, I saw no mention of keeping tires inflated to the pressure stated on the tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I made a trip, 1350 miles each way, every 2 months from '95 through '00. On the open road, I-70 from Columbus OH to KC KS About 800 miles of boring. FLAT. Used Lin Cont. '91, '93, '96, In a stretch of 20+miles, I reset the mpg to keep from boring. I could get a range of 20-27 on the same tank of gas, same speed. Wind is the big killer, A/C (ambient temp) makes a difference, but once the inside is cool very little. Side wind as bad as head wind. We would spend the night in two motels. Best mpg would usually be the first 2 hours in the morning after leaving the motel about 7:30. Cool and minimum wind. MidWest has wind 99% of the time by my estimate.
In the calm, 70mph vs 65mph the wind resistance goes up 15%.
-chart-
I looked through the responses to your question. Unless I missed it, I saw no mention of keeping tires inflated to the pressure stated on the tires.
yep i even checked my tires, i going to have to take my car to a shop my friend told me that my fuel injectors might need replaced iam going to have my engine scoped ,, i have done so much work on my car complete tune up ,, fuel pump,,, i am tired of not driving that far i can see the gas gauge go down ,, i am topping it off above half of tank ,, cant afford to fill it up iam driving in town ,, at a stop light it runs smooth and sometimes i can feel miss in the motor , i cant tell if its the gas iam buying ,, might have to try a differnt gas station , i dont run my ac ,, its under 60 degrees out side so its not hot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,089 Posts
well, try the easy stuff first. put new air filter on it. put new plugs on it if they have not been done forever. try a jug of seafoam or injector cleaner through it. after a longer drive. feel the heat coming off the tire rims to see if one or more
wheels seems hotter than the others ( you can use a thermal thermometer if you have one).

after (and maybe before) scan with OBD2 scanner with live data. check the fuel trims and other sensor data.

bob
 
  • Like
Reactions: kekaye56

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
well, try the easy stuff first. put new air filter on it. put new plugs on it if they have not been done forever. try a jug of seafoam or injector cleaner through it. after a longer drive. feel the heat coming off the tire rims to see if one or more
wheels seems hotter than the others ( you can use a thermal thermometer if you have one).

after (and maybe before) scan with OBD2 scanner with live data. check the fuel trims and other sensor data.

bob
i put new spark plugs , wires and coil all motorcraft parts,,and just had 2 upper oxygen sencors replaced i did take it to a shop like 3 months ago,,,,and i have been putting in fuel injector cleaner,, the air clear is still good,, when i was pulling out in a street with a hill ,, it has less power going up a hill i had to put foot in the gas pedal to make it up the hill ,, ,,i checked for codes there was none ,, my friend also told me to check my Evaporative emissions vent purge valve ,, thats one of the problems of this valve is less engine power and sucking more gas ,, i did check the fuel trims before it was running lean in january i had to put in a new fuel pump ,, always somthing in a car ,, after driving this car 22 years and buying my car in 2000 with 66,000 miles it only has 133,000 miles on it now ,,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
When you fill the fuel tank, a certain amount of air is left in the tank for fuel tank pressurization and fuel vapor capture in the evaporative emissions system. Those vapors are released into the fuel system and burned so that they are not wasted or adding to unburned hydrocarbons in the atmosphere. If you fill your tank and drive a short distance as you described and then refilled the tank, the fuel had sloshed and some of the air space became available to put fuel in. You didn't burn two gallons of fuel. You just overfilled your tank on the second fuel stop.

To calculate your fuel mileage, fill the tank and record the odometer reading. The next time and each following time you fill the tank, keep the receipt showing the gallons purchased, and note the odometer reading. Subtract the original odometer reading from the new one and divide this by the gallons purchased. This gives you the average fuel mileage for the single tank. To be more useful, collect the receipts until you have driven over 1,000 miles and then subtract the original odometer reading from the newest. Take these miles and divide by the sum of all the gallons purchased after the original odometer reading. This will give you a more accurate average mileage picture.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top