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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 1996 taurus and it recently just shut off on my while pulling into my driveway. i could not hear the pump turn on when turning the key so i replaced the pump but this did not fix my problem. i replaced the filter and just a couple weeks ago replaced the spark plugs and wires. i still cannot hear my pump turn on. i disconnected the line from my filter that goes towards the engine and tried crankin the car but no fuel came out of the pump. i have been told it could be a relay problem or i may have gotten a bad fuel pump. i have also checked the switch in the trunk and it is ok. any suggestions?
 

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Fuel pump relay underhood or wiring (connector) problem? You can swap the relay with another like, non-critical one to test unless its in the sealed ccrm. Check owners or repair manual to locate.
 

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Fuel pump relay underhood or wiring (connector) problem? You can swap the relay with another like, non-critical one to test unless its in the sealed ccrm. Check owners or repair manual to locate.
And inertia switch, check voltage to and from.

-chart-
 

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the relays checked good...im not sure what the inertia switch is. can u explain please?
Inertia switch is just a switch set to trip if you get in an accident to shut the fuel pump down so it doesn't keep pumping. I'm not sure where exactly it's located on these cars but should be in the trunk or some fords are behind the passenger side kick panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thats the same thing as the cut off switch right? if so then the switch was not tripped but ur saying if the power to the switch was cut off then the car wont start?
 

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From what you describe you are not getting power to the fuel pump. You need to use trace down where you have power and where you don't. You will need a voltmeter. Start at the cut off switch(inertia switch) and see if you have power on both sides of it, before the switch and after the switch. Then go from there, if you have power then you will have to test at the fuel pump. If you don't have power work the other way towards the relay and ignition switch. Somewhere you are losing power and you will need to do some testing to figure out where exactly that is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
From what you describe you are not getting power to the fuel pump. You need to use trace down where you have power and where you don't. You will need a voltmeter. Start at the cut off switch(inertia switch) and see if you have power on both sides of it, before the switch and after the switch. Then go from there, if you have power then you will have to test at the fuel pump. If you don't have power work the other way towards the relay and ignition switch. Somewhere you are losing power and you will need to do some testing to figure out where exactly that is.
ok thats what i thought too. my only thing about that is would it have lost power in the middle of me driving and caused the car to shut off?
 

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Jumper pump at inertia switch to batt with a long wire and see if the pump runs.
 

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PUmp test

dont know a lot about cars so im not real sure what you mean
Takes two. Everyone should know where their inertia switch is located. It is easy to see once you know where yours is. This thing kills the fuel pump if you have a wreck, even get it hit. It is a block box with a red button to reset.

If you get a volt meter, ground one side, then measure the volts to one side elect connection, then the other, both sould be battery volts when:

Key turned to 'on' but not started. The volts should come up then turn off after about one second. You should hear the pump run. If one side is hot the other not, reset the red button. If both are hot and no pump sounds, then the pump is dead.

Remember, when the key is turned to 'on' you should hear the pump run for about one second, then quit.

-chart-
 

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Do you have a volt/ohm meter? If not you can get one fairly cheap from harbor freight, think sears even sells some for 15 bucks or so. Otherwise a test light will work alright also.

As mentioned above you just have to find your inertia switch and see if you have power before and after it when the key is FIRST turned on. This might take two people, one to turn the key and one to hold and read the meter since the pump will only get power for a few seconds when you first turn the key.
 

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Meters

Do you have a volt/ohm meter? If not you can get one fairly cheap from harbor freight, think sears even sells some for 15 bucks or so. Otherwise a test light will work alright also.

As mentioned above you just have to find your inertia switch and see if you have power before and after it when the key is FIRST turned on. This might take two people, one to turn the key and one to hold and read the meter since the pump will only get power for a few seconds when you first turn the key.
And yes VOM is cheap and you do not need a good one. Test light will work just fine, maybe easier to see for that short period the power will be on. Having a cheap VOM is essential for maintenance. Bat volts charging, volts at rest, drop over battery cables etc. I have 2 Flukes, high end, but usually do not use them on the cars. No need for that. I use the cheap one so that if I drop it, :( not out much. I also have a 260 Simpson old style mechanical. Grarage sale thing. Like new in the box.

Can find neat car stuff at garage sales here. I got a 200# beam torque wrench for couple bucks, and a induction timing light new in the box free. Most people do not know what these things are. Those who do know, already have one or more.

-chart-
 

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I grew up using my dad's Triplett VOM. You learned to spot anomalies by the needle moving outside of an expected reading (sometimes violently!). These digital meters sometimes are tricky to interpret when they auto-range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok so heres where im at ( btw i have a new post called RELAY CONTROL MODULE ) but anyways...im not getting any power to the inertia switch or the pump for that matter. i ran a wire from a fuse to the inertia switch and turned the key and the pump started up. however i have a blown fuse that continues to blow. the wire runs to what im told is the RELAY CONTROL MODULE. ive had a bad humming noise and my ac hasnt worked. am i correct in assuming that i need a new RELAY CONTROL MODULE so it wont blow the fuse anymore? and would this fix my ac as an added bonus?
 
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