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My dad is having problems with his bull which we believe is the fuel pump. I know in some other cars, there is a service panel to access the pump under the back seat. Is that the same with the Taurus or do you have to drop the whole tank?
 

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My dad is having problems with his bull which we believe is the fuel pump. I know in some other cars, there is a service panel to access the pump under the back seat. Is that the same with the Taurus or do you have to drop the whole tank?
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Gotta drop the tank. In another post I've read of someone cutting out an access panel before, so there are options :D
 

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My dad is having problems with his bull which we believe is the fuel pump. I know in some other cars, there is a service panel to access the pump under the back seat. Is that the same with the Taurus or do you have to drop the whole tank?
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I have a sable 2000 wagon. Just replaced fuel pump last week. Must drop tank. Was difficult if tank is full and fuel pump won't pump. Could not figure out how to siphon out gas as there is a check ball at end of filler line that prevents hose from entering tank. Heavy tank! Use floor jack under it!
Both Chilton and Haynes books didn't represent my 2000 sable. Only one line on the pump not two. The return line is the one that connects to the evap cannister so disconnect it. That should be a quick disconnect fitting. Remove the U shaped clip and pull hose out of connection. Two hose clamps on rubber fuel lines for the fuel filler pipe (filler line and small overfill line) located in rear of tank--mine were regular hose clamps.. Disconnect the fuel filter line at fuel filter-quick disconnect line here too. Disconnect electrical connection at front of tank to disconnect all electrical lines. Jack under tank then remove two tank straps to drop. NOTE where rubber bumper pads are on the top of the tank if they come loose. To remove pump from tank, mine required a small turn to unlock it after the ring has been removed. Do not pry it off as it must be rotated while you are pushing down slightly. It will only move a few degrees to unlock. Not sure if it was CW or CCW. When removing the filler tube overfill line, be careful as they are attached to plastic lines on top of the tank. To much yanking or twisting results in breaking the plastic lines. Goodluck
 

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Did you change the fuel filter and run some injector cleaner through the motor? That solved my hesitating problem and it was a lot easier than changing the pump. And, if it isn't the pump you will have to do those things anyway. Good luck!
 

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I dont have a hesitation, I have a problem with starting.
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Just starting? That may not be the fuel pump. Could just be a pressure regulator failure. Do yourself a favor and buy a $30 EFI fuel pressure tester before you spend a day and hundreds of $$$ on a fuel pump you may not need.
 

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What is your problem with starting?

Extended cranking times, but the engine always starts?

This is probably due to a leak in the fuel system allowing the pressure to drop excessively when the engine is off. And, as you are guessing, the fuel pump could be the problem (there's a non-replacable check valve on the fuel pump assembly that is supposed to hold the pressure when the engine is off). BUT, as someone else already pointed out, the problem could also be at the front of the car with a defective fuel pressure regulator (bad check valve again), or one or more leaking fuel injectors.

Replacing the fuel tank is no big deal, as long as it is close to empty (plan ahead and use up the gas before starting the fuel pump replacement). Should not take you more then 3-4 hours (I did my last one in less than 2 hours).
 

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my dad's car suffers from the same symptoms. he has to crank it until the fuel pump builds up enough pressure to start the car. he had the fuel pump replaced about a year ago but the problem persisted. he's been baffled ever since. thanks to this thread, i have an idea that the fuel pressure regulator is faulty. i'll check this the next time i'm home.
 
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