Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Decided to change the fuel filter on the bull, since I have no idea when that was last done. Went to O'Reillys and picked up a house brand (which turned out to be a FRAM :angry: ) for 6 bucks. It even came with the correct clips.

Got home, jacked the car up, relieved fuel pressure and got to work. Both clips came out just fine and intact surprisingly, as did the clamp. Pulled the line off the engine side of the filter just fine, but the tank side of the filter is pretty much welded to the damn plastic quick connector. I can spin it just fine, but the damn won't come off. It's been soaked in PBlaster, Liquid wrench, WD-40 and some ATF and still won't budge.

Any Ideas? I CANNOT drive the car anywhere, as the gas that was dripping out is black from being stirred up on the removal. I even put the filter in a bottle and primed it a few times to clear it out. The gas is so cloudy and nasty that even with my 110w spotlight, you can't see the light through the gas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Interesting. After I got the clips off, I just kind of jiggled the filter until it came loose. But then again, I don't wait years to change my fuel filter. I do it about every other oil change or 7500 miles. Sounds like yours is stuck because it has not been changed at all.

I have even changed mine in the Autozone parking lot without jacking the entire car up as you have. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ended up putting the new filter on the engine side, then taking a few inch piece of trans cooler hose and hooking it to the out on the old filter and the in on the new filter. Just limped it down to the stealership..... *Gets ready to bend over*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Sorry to hear that. Next time, do it every other oil change and it will be a lot simpler to get off. You should be able to follow these instructions next time (with ease):

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1 and 2

The in-line fuel filter provides filtration to protect the small metering orifices of the fuel injectors. The filter is located downstream of the fuel pump and is usually mounted to the rear right hand frame rail adjacent to the right hand front cover of the fuel tank underneath the vehicle. The filter is a one-piece unit that is non-serviceable and must be replaced if it is defective.

The flexible fuel filter and base is compatible with either fuel Methanol or fuel Ethanol. The use of a gasoline fuel filter on these models will result in the failure of the filter and base.

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the fuel system mounting and its related components




Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the clips from the push connect fittings




1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to of this repair guide for the proper procedure.

2. Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands.

3. Disconnect the push connect fittings from the ends of the filter and base. Refer to of this repair guide for the fuel line disconnect procedure.

4. Loosen the filter clamp mounting clamp just enough so that the filter and base can be removed.

5. Once the clamp is loosened, remove the filter from the vehicle.



To install:

The flow direction arrow on the filter should be positioned forward and downward to ensure proper flow of fuel through the filter.

6. Install the fuel filter in the mounting clamp. Make sure the flow arrow is properly positioned. Locate the base of the filter against the tab at the lower end of the bracket.

7. Attach the push connect fittings to the filter. Refer to of this repair guide for the fuel line connect procedure.

8. Tighten the filter mounting clamp nut to 15-24 inch lbs. (1.7-2.8 Nm).

9. Start the engine and check for leaks.

10. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,958 Posts
hold tank side line, wiggle and pull filter. it will come off. Every other oil change is a bit overkill. Once a year should be more than sufficient
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
QUOTE (RPFlloyd @ Jul 10 2009, 10:12 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=738438
hold tank side line, wiggle and pull filter. it will come off. Every other oil change is a bit overkill. Once a year should be more than sufficient[/b]
The engine side came off just that simple, but the tank side line is rusted right to the plastic quick connector.

Put it this way, when I limped it down to the dealer, I didn't even bother putting the clip back on that side. The rust is strong enough to hold back the ~40psi.

P.S. It is infact the original filter that came with the car. The previous owner never bothered to change it. Even if I attempted this 2 years ago when I got the car, the same thing would have happened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
797 Posts
Even if you got the fitting off of the filter it is likely the O-ring seal would be damaged as you rip the raised rusted surface over it.

Needa Parts manufacturing (similar to the Dorman or HELP products)sells are replacement fuel elbow fitting with a small hose and a brass barb w/clamp. You can cut the line just above the stuck fitting and replace it with this part. I bought one at a VIP parts store for about 5 bucks if I remember correctly. If you were to replace the entire line with the Ford part(if you can afford it or even get it) you will have to drop the gas tank.

Needa part number 551513. Fuel line repair kit 5/16 to 5/16 line.

The instructions tell you to soak the line being attached to the hose barb in hot water to soften it.

You could also cut one out at a bone yard and splice that in also. You then just need a barb and a clamp. They sell the barb and clamp alone. Needa part number 551763. 5/16 Brass fuel line Union.

The manual says every 30k miles for Fuel filter replacement. For most people that is around every 2 years. If the car is not driven that much and is in the rust belt I would not recommend exceeding 2 years regardless of the mileage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Got it back from the stealership yesterday. It took 30mins of screwing around with, but they managed to get the line off the filter without replacing the whole line. No leaks.

4 things now, that SHOULDN'T happen when you change the fuel filter

(1). My scangauge now reports the fuel tables as a couple percent lower (leaner), and (2). my fuel economy has gone up 1-2mpg consistently (again according to the scangauge)
(3). My Parents and myself notice more power throughout the entire powerband. This 'tec would be an absolute dog till about 3k and then it would start going. Now it actually pulls under the 3k mark.
(4). Probably the most alarming thing, but before no matter how hard I tried, I could barely get my 'tec to shift over ~5500rpm. Now she goes past 6k and shifts just before the limiter. :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
507 Posts
Just thought I should add that after changing my fuel filter at 35,000 miles, my ScanGauge II said the same thing as above. Mileage went up and power too. I will NOT in the future go longer than two years or about 24,000 miles before changing that filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,411 Posts
hold tank side line, wiggle and pull filter. it will come off. Every other oil change is a bit overkill. Once a year should be more than sufficient
I'm replacing it once every five years :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Glad you got it off!

Too bad you had to go to the dealer to get it off!

I did the one on my wife's Sable about a month ago when I was fighting lean banks 1 and 2 codes. I did not have as much trouble getting it off as you did, but I had a heck of a time getting the fitting back on far enough to lock the clip!

I finally had to put some silicone spray on the filter nipple, tighten the clamp around the filter body and really push! I was worried that I was going to break the elbow on the plastic fitting if I slipped or got the angle off a little.

It's funny these can be such a bear some times. I have a 5.0 HO out of a 'Stang in my '70 F250 with all the FI stuff. Never had this problem with filters on the truck. I wonder if they changed the speck on the O-Ring or something.

PT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,669 Posts
Why Stuck

Decided to change the fuel filter on the bull, since I have no idea when that was last done. Went to O'Reillys and picked up a house brand (which turned out to be a FRAM :angry: ) for 6 bucks. It even came with the correct clips.

Got home, jacked the car up, relieved fuel pressure and got to work. Both clips came out just fine and intact surprisingly, as did the clamp. Pulled the line off the engine side of the filter just fine, but the tank side of the filter is pretty much welded to the damn plastic quick connector. I can spin it just fine, but the damn won't come off. It's been soaked in PBlaster, Liquid wrench, WD-40 and some ATF and still won't budge.

Any Ideas? I CANNOT drive the car anywhere, as the gas that was dripping out is black from being stirred up on the removal. I even put the filter in a bottle and primed it a few times to clear it out. The gas is so cloudy and nasty that even with my 110w spotlight, you can't see the light through the gas.
If the tube rusted on the fuel side so that it blocked the O-ring from slipping off: then it rusted from water in the gas.

That should not be any problem with daily driving and good fuel.

I plan to do my '01 soon but it has 3 fittings. I think that was a one year thing. 112K on original filter, and it runs fine. My Lin has 97K but it was changed under warrenty at 35K so it is good to go for a while yet. It is the two tube one so have to get different filters for them.

I think the sure sign of plugging of the filter is when they will not run strong to the rpm change at WOT. So for me, it is around 100K or any sign of performance at high rpm.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
797 Posts
Needa Part to the rescue

As I said in my earlier post by in 2009. I used the Needa Part as shown in the picture. I had to cut the hose back but it worked and has been fine to date. The only place I have seen this part or product line is at a VIP. Not sure where else you could get one.
I like the grease idea. I can 't belive I did not think of that since I use some form of grease or anti-seaze on almost everything on my cars.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
The fuel filter on my parents' 2001 dohc taurus was the original part. It took me two hours to get the 3/8" line off (it has two lines of 5/16" and one 3/8"). I damaged (badly) the plastic collar that the retaining clip goes through.

Also, the plastic circular piece that fits inside one of the 5/16" lines (on top of the o-ring) popped off. I tried to pop it back in with a small c-clamp, and it seems to be seated pretty good.

Once the fuel system gets fully pressurized, it leaks like crazy.

Am I supposed to hear a "click" on this type of connector?
Is the ridge on the filter nipple supposed to stop at the plastic cap (inside the connector), or is it supposed to enter it?


Finally, has anyone used a product like the one above for the lines at the fuel filter?
Or, would you recommend I go to the dealer and buy new lines?

I would appreciate any help/advice/answers to above questions you guys could offer.
Thanks.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top