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Discussion Starter #1
For jobs I didn't have the right tools for...I just take the parts to the local mechanic and he charges the regular labor rate and warrantied his work. It had been reasonable generally, but this latest visit has me more than irritated.

I requested for the rear subframe bushings to be installed up front (and I told him I knew they looked different, but they will work AOK), new motor mounts/transaxle mount, and a new oil pan gasket since I messed that up originally. See here on the original drop slip:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bea.../IMG_2266-1.jpg

Want to take a gander at how many hours I was charged for all that (@ 65/hour)? Try eleven hours "labor". I have no idea if that sounds too high or low...but I'm guessing on the high side.

He called at the end of Friday to let me know that the crankshaft pulley needed replacing and it's seal was leaking oil...ok...well if it needs replacing go ahead. 3 hours labor, and billed for a new pulley (1F1Z-6A312-AA) and a new oil seal (based on part # from invoice, click). Not sure if that was a necessity but here is a high res pic of the old pulley here

What gets me is this:
1) He installed the rear subframe bushings...in the rear, and never called me to get the "OK"...cause I would have told him no. I told him the front (per the sheet above). He says its impossible they are welded in and the subframe would move around if the rears were installed (ugh :bs: )
2.) He put in 6 quarts oil when I wrote down and said 5.5 ...maybe it doesn't make a big difference, but still...second time this has happened. I provided the oil and filter, and he did not charge for that labor.
3.) Check these three sheets:
Sheet1
Sheet2
Sheet3
-->How are my front brakes at seventy percent...I just had michakaveli help me out and put them on 9/20? I call BS.
-->I also call BS on them taking the time to remove my wheels and check the rear brakes.
-->9/26 This mechanic FLUSHED the brake fluid with Mobil1 Synthetic Dot3/4 stuff...wtf how is it dirty already? I watched them change it that day while sitting outside.

I start the car to leave, put it in gear and *dinnnng* Low Coolant illuminated. OK...turned the car off, opened the coolant recovery tank and its where it should be. I call mechanic over...and then a tech comes out and says "it came on yesterday". :huh: Right...it just magically came on...coincidence? Since it's OK, he says to ignore it. I know I'll have to either replace the tank or try cleaning it out to fix that sensor...but I have the factory tank.

My thoughts are probably scattered (sorry about that) but I am really not pleased with the experience. Maybe it's just worth not going back there again...but do I raise some valid points? I feel like I got taken to the cleaners yet again just trying to do some good to the car.

I got my old parts back...see them here: http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bea...OldParts121708/ Notice the old rear SFBs look just fine...

Can't wait for my own garage someday...
 

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I recall the time a mechanic questioned my front bushings saying the top G3 rear wouldn't fit. But after a few words he agrees and was actually glad he did it.

I mean come on....SHO's and the Police Package did have upper "reinforcement" mounts for better handling lol.
 

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What was his reasoning for replacing that pulley? It doesnt look like it needs replacement...

Mine does though, so if you wanna get rid of it, :makeadeal:
 

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You got taken big time.

The pulley didn't need to be replaced.

He didn't do what you asked for for the subframe bushings. I would either have him redo it or refund.

Mechanics need work so everything needs work. Take it with a grain of salt for the brake stuff. They know its a safety issue so people will tend to agree.

I do most of my work now so I don't have to deal with this crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What was his reasoning for replacing that pulley? It doesnt look like it needs replacement...

Mine does though, so if you wanna get rid of it, :makeadeal:
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He said the old pulley had cracks, was spider webbing and might break. Shoot me a PM if you want it. There are pics of it in the original link above...I can get some more if you want.

You got taken big time.

The pulley didn't need to be replaced.

He didn't do what you asked for for the subframe bushings. I would either have him redo it or refund.

Mechanics need work so everything needs work. Take it with a grain of salt for the brake stuff. They know its a safety issue so people will tend to agree.

I do most of my work now so I don't have to deal with this crap.
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Great...a rather expensive mistake. Oh well. I will stop by next time and talk to him about the bushings.

I won't be going back to this place unless one of the jobs he has done fails in some way under the 1 year warranty.
 

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Every time somthing like this happens to me I have to remind myself...

"If I want somthing done right I have to do it myself"
 

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alright everyone knows you get "taken" when you bring a car to a shop but thats with any kind of service in life home repairs hotels restaurants

anyways
the coolant light if they had to remove the coolant jug for any reason i have found that u have to use a scanner clear the codes turn to off position and it should realease the magnetic sensor in the jug i have had this problem alot

dont get me wrong im not defending stupid people or high auto repair bills
 

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I am sorry to hear about your experience, I hope it all works out.
 

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It looks like there is a chunk missing on the pulley; very top, back side. No idea if that was there before or they did it when removing.

Low coolant light is most likely because the magnet separated from the float in the tank; it's not serviceable, and you'll need a new tank to fix the problem. Unbolt the tank and lift it up to check the sensor connection on the bottom just to be sure it's not that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No idea on the pulley either.

Oh yea I knew about the sensor thing from searching on here :) I'm going to go see how it is in a few...
 

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Next time, Nick, call one of us. Seriously, we all can put our heads together and knock this stuff out in a few hours. It's a lot better than getting hosed by a mechanic who doesn't do what you asked and you (usually) don't need to pay one of us.
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i can even help out. i can hold stuff and tighten things or loosen things when they are stuck. :lol2:
oh yea i bring beer too. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Took car for a 10 minute drive...no low coolant light. Odd, must have cleared itself.

The AC lines and the evaporator/dryer had condensation on them (it's almost 80 here)...otherwise, no coolant seen.

Thanks guys for your thoughts on this B)
 

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Took car for a 10 minute drive...no low coolant light. Odd, must have cleared itself.

The AC lines and the evaporator/dryer had condensation on them (it's almost 80 here)...otherwise, no coolant seen.

Thanks guys for your thoughts on this B)
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80 :blink:
bracing for a snow storm at a rate of two inches an hour. :glare:
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
Took car for a 10 minute drive...no low coolant light. Odd, must have cleared itself.

The AC lines and the evaporator/dryer had condensation on them (it's almost 80 here)...otherwise, no coolant seen.

Thanks guys for your thoughts on this B)
[/b]
80 :blink:
bracing for a snow storm at a rate of two inches an hour. :glare:
[/b][/quote]

I don't miss those days.... although the heavy snow fall was nice to see, but aftermath, not to much fun... Ice, salt and sand all over the car, etc.... :sun:
 

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I would definately go talk to them about the oil being overfull, dont let them "tell you its fine" Make them do their job.
For the sfb's I would also complain. You specifically told them to put them up front, they should definately not have put them on the rear without calling you.


edit: Check on your crank pulley where the seal rides, a lot of times they are uneven or grooved, causing the seal to leak. If there is any question about the pulley seal surface, I recommend replacing it.
Also: $65 an hour is unheard of around here, where I work its $97/hour, and most dealerships are around $110.
 

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Next time, Nick, call one of us. Seriously, we all can put our heads together and knock this stuff out in a few hours. It's a lot better than getting hosed by a mechanic who doesn't do what you asked and you (usually) don't need to pay one of us.
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Lucky for those from the North. There's hardly members here in FL with Gen 3/4 Duratecs, especially in Tampa. Unless some are fimiliar working on Tec's lol
 

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Mmmm, warm weather makes me more anxious to move after I graduate.

Personally, I don't trust anyone with my car. The only place I can get myself to trust is a Ford Dealership in Havelock, NC. Mainly because when I thought my alignment was a bit funny on my long trip, I took it there, and they did it for dirt cheap before I drove another 1000+ Miles on my tires with a possible bad alignment (It was off), and they even topped off my fluids before I went from NC to IL in August. Camber was off on one of my wheels, and toe on the front wheels was still in the green, but they tweaked it up. Gotta say, my car has never felt better.

I'd rather trust a Ford Dealership than many of the people out there today, considering working at AutoZone, I met some of the mechanics from local shops. I wouldn't want them working on my car that's for sure...
 
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