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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been having vibration and noise issues since I bought my 2013 SE used at the beginning of the year. Based on the condition of the original wheels, the original owner struck a few (many) curbs. I was getting a speed dependent whomping noise and vibration when making sweeping left turns and it eventually turned into vibration at highway speeds. I finally confirmed it was the hub after getting an alignment and changing the brakes. I suspect I could have diagnosed it earlier based on the humming it was making (pointed out by someone else) but it was there since I got the car and I was used to lots of noises from my old car so it didn't jump out at me.

I used the TIMKEN HA590261 from Rockauto for $103.

I put together a full album of the process here: https://imgur.com/gallery/EA9Oj
EDIT: PDF of the process available here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz-yTQcdMFrGQ09XbTFsV1FtdUk/view



Total time was 2.5 hours.

Everything went smoothly which is definitely a first for car work for me! Best part is, the noise and vibration is gone!! :D
 

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Thank you for putting in the effort of taking the pictures and documenting the process!

When I find these golden nougats, I tend to "print" them as PDF and place them in my DIY folder for future reference for the time that I may need to do the repair.

I do this because you can't always depend on the link being there a year from now...

However, in this case, it isn't as simple as "print" to PDF...for some reason, pictures don't show at all or show only a few...

Is there any way, any chance that this can be converted into a document that shows the pictures and text along with them so it can be saved?

Again, Good Job!

KMN62
2013 SEL
47K miles
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Noisy left turn = faulty rf brg./hub assy., lol!

I should've added and in my defense, it was making the noise while turning right too just not as bad :p It also didn't have any play in the wheel when doing the normal 6-12 shake or 3-9 shake of the wheel. Looking back, I should've just changed the bearing way earlier but oh well.




KMN62, I'll work on putting this into a PDF. Imgur's current policy is that they won't delete images but thats only good if they're still around in 10 years and don't change the policy like Photobucket did with their linked images.
 

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I saved this. Hopefully I never have to use it.


One good thing about FWD is the rear hubs look to be the AWD version, minus the axle of course. So, VERY easy to replace those when you are lacking the axle shafts.




On my Previous Infiniti G37x, I replace each front bearing/hub 2X. Design is similar to the Taurus (I'd imagine all FWD's are similar) but I could not free the bearing from the knuckle with a slide hammer or air chisel. I had to remove the entire knuckle, and either use a press, or reinstall the 4 bolts partially and then strike them from the rear in an X-patter to remove.


Other than that aspect, pretty simply job if the slide hammer would work
 

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I found another way to press the hubs out fairly easily i don't have pictures yet but you can take a short grade5 or 8 bolt and nut (length of bolt fits just between hub and steering knuckle).
With the 4 -18mm bolts removed first.
Place the the nut on the bolt loosely and put the bolt in head first against the steering knuckle (1 at the top between the mounting bolts) and (1 at the bottom) and turn the nut out until it makes contact keep cranking you will probably strip the threads so have 4 or 6 bolts and nuts if you want to do both wheel hubs.
Basically its a miniature mechanical press.
Fine threads are a bit better to start with since they will turn out more slowly but i found standard threads work fine i believe they were 3/8" or 7/16" bolts (i want to say 1.5" long but better to check the actual gap with a tap measure to see what fits best) or you can buy them too long and just cut them down to fit after the nut is threaded on.
1/2" would work as well but the thread ratio doesn't work in your advantage as the bolt diameter gets larger.
Tapping lightly on the hub base with a hammer every so often breaks the corrosion free with much less shock to all the joints.
 
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