Timken bearings, I wouldn't buy new axles unless the old CV joints are worn or the boots have rotted. Play at 12 and 6 may just be ball joints, don't mess with the wheel bearings unless you're sure they're bad. Usually they're noisy long before there's movement. Remember you'll need a 4 wheel alignment after it's all done.
Subframe and control arm bushings are likely problems and are unfortunately very difficult to access. This is a big project you're undertaking, don't fool yourself.
From my experience with the '98/'99's common parts that go bad are, wheel bearings, ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends. And with as many miles as you have on it, strut bearings as well.
As for difficulty, it's not really all that difficult. Somewhat time consuming but not that hard.
Here are the vital tools you will need: pitman arm puller to separate the balljoint from the lower control arm (no a pickle fork wont work, the knuckle is aluminum), inner tie rod tool with the inserts since the ends are rounded.
When separating the balljoint from the lower control arm, as you're tightening it, be sure to give the LCA a whack with a hammer when it starts to get tight. If you don't you're very liable to break the pitman arm puller.
To pop the outer tie rod ends out, simply pull out the cotter pin, undo the 19mm nut, and whack the knuckle with the hammer right next to it fairly hard --it'll pop right out.
NOTE: when dismantling the tie-rods, be sure to count how many turns it took to get the outer one off. Them after you get the inner one off, reassemble them and and measure with a tape measure. Then make sure your new ones are the same length (it's very possible that they'll take more or less turns). That way, the alignment will be close enough to drive it to an alignment shop without wearing out your tires.
NOTE: There is only ONE adjustment in the front end of a Taurus --toe. So when you call around, see how much they'd want to simply "set the toe and let it go". I can usually have them done for ~$30-35.
As for axles, unless they're noisy or have torn boots, don't replace them. It's somewhat atypical for them to wear out. Same with the lower control arm bushings. I have worked on several Tauruses and not one had worn LCA bushings.
One more thing, be sure to torque the axle nut. I believe the torque spec is 174 ft.lbs.
DOH! I almost forgot, you're going to need a balljoint press as well. If you're going to be renting one from O'Reilly's or Autozone or where ever, be sure that it has the cups for the Taurus and Sable in it. Most of these new kits do not. So you will have to rent the press --which is $100, and the Taurus sable cups which are another $85. (you get it all back when you return it).
All in all, it shouldn't take more than 3 to 4 hours to do the inner and outer tierods, balljoints, hub assemblies (wheel bearings) and axles.
If you've never done it before, be ready to spend a lot more time than that.
PS: Tauruses dont have radius arms.
PPS: As for which brand to buy, unless you want to do it all again next year, MOOG for the suspension stuff and either Motocraft or any other American made bearing.
