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Hello. My brother was driving mh 2003 Taurus dohc 24v. He said the passenger wheel made a loud noise. So he towed it to my home. The top caliper mounting bracket nut was gone. I did replace the pads week ago and the nuts were tight. ( I believe)

But I cannot find the bolt nowhere on the internet. Any suggestions?
03 Taurus dohc 24v front caliper mounting bracket bolt ? thank you all.
 

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Hello. My brother was driving mh 2003 Taurus dohc 24v. He said the passenger wheel made a loud noise. So he towed it to my home. The top caliper mounting bracket nut was gone. I did replace the pads week ago and the nuts were tight. ( I believe)

But I cannot find the bolt nowhere on the internet. Any suggestions?
03 Taurus dohc 24v front caliper mounting bracket bolt ? thank you all.
Is this what you need? Discount Auto Parts and Accessories - PartsGeek
 

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Nearest JY
I am supporting 3 '03 Bulls and do brakes from time to time. I have spare bolts from the JY in my little box of brake parts. Not that I expect to loose one, just I misplace things. So when I can't find the bolt, I just reach in the box and get another. Instead of getting frustrated and loosing time, I just move on. I usually find the misplaced bolt and put it back in my brake box parts. I also keep blue Locktite and dab all the bolts. I also remember the 15mm 6 point socket with a long breaker bar and give them a good tug.
On the other hand, just did pads on the wagon yesterday and today found the lugs not tight. Slight new noise when stopping, just before dead stop. Getting worse quickly. No idea how that happened. I used a 100# clicker torque wrench on them. Now I understand why the shops want you to re-troque after having a wheel off. Never had that happen before.
If you do not "misplace" stuff, just wait. Starts early for some but with old age, it happens to all.
-chart-
 

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I am supporting 3 '03 Bulls and do brakes from time to time. I have spare bolts from the JY in my little box of brake parts. Not that I expect to loose one, just I misplace things. So when I can't find the bolt, I just reach in the box and get another. Instead of getting frustrated and loosing time, I just move on. I usually find the misplaced bolt and put it back in my brake box parts. I also keep blue Locktite and dab all the bolts. I also remember the 15mm 6 point socket with a long breaker bar and give them a good tug.
On the other hand, just did pads on the wagon yesterday and today found the lugs not tight. Slight new noise when stopping, just before dead stop. Getting worse quickly. No idea how that happened. I used a 100# clicker torque wrench on them. Now I understand why the shops want you to re-troque after having a wheel off. Never had that happen before.
If you do not "misplace" stuff, just wait. Starts early for some but with old age, it happens to all.
-chart-
The last time I ended up using Scotch pad on a die grinder and took the corrosion off the mounting surface. I didn't have the loosening after doing that. I had winter tires installed at Walmart and their process is to torque, drive around parking lot and retorque by shop manager. I was impressed.

I remember I installed a front motor mount and two years later the bolt fell out. What was the cause of that?? Not enough torque or lack of blue loctite. I believe the caliper brackets had blue locktite on the bolts.
 

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I am supporting 3 '03 Bulls and do brakes from time to time. I have spare bolts from the JY in my little box of brake parts. Not that I expect to loose one, just I misplace things. So when I can't find the bolt, I just reach in the box and get another. Instead of getting frustrated and loosing time, I just move on. I usually find the misplaced bolt and put it back in my brake box parts. I also keep blue Locktite and dab all the bolts. I also remember the 15mm 6 point socket with a long breaker bar and give them a good tug.
On the other hand, just did pads on the wagon yesterday and today found the lugs not tight. Slight new noise when stopping, just before dead stop. Getting worse quickly. No idea how that happened. I used a 100# clicker torque wrench on them. Now I understand why the shops want you to re-troque after having a wheel off. Never had that happen before.
If you do not "misplace" stuff, just wait. Starts early for some but with old age, it happens to all.
-chart-
I am there about the age and forgetting things, compounded by major brain surgery that ended my military career. My point was just to point you in a direction to find said missing bolt ( to replace it) if you did not have the size.
 

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Hello. My brother was driving mh 2003 Taurus dohc 24v. He said the passenger wheel made a loud noise. So he towed it to my home. The top caliper mounting bracket nut was gone. I did replace the pads week ago and the nuts were tight. ( I believe)

But I cannot find the bolt nowhere on the internet. Any suggestions?
03 Taurus dohc 24v front caliper mounting bracket bolt ? thank you all.
OK let's not overthink this.
Bolt is 12mm 2.0mm pitch, 40mm long. Likely available at Lowes or other sources like farm places. It must not be longer than 40mm. Needs a washer.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks to all. I took a guess on a size on a website. Today I got the bolt. Right size. I had to buy 10 of them but at least it fit. I put lock tight blue on them too.. The only difference is the newer has more threads on the top than the old one. The pics as follows picture. Left-old, Right-New. Need one let me know.
216186

Thanks again!:)
 

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Appears thread locker is important on the yoke bolts. As well as well cleaned matching surfaces.
As to lug nuts on aluminum. I have been tightening them with a 100# clicker torque wrench. Now I find when I go back the next day with the same torque wrench, they mover tighter. Guess I should go tighter on the first run. Shops tighten with the air impact, then just check with a torque wrench to be sure they OVER tightened them.
Pic of my clicker torque wrench. It was cheap because it did not reverse ratchet properly. I have no use to torque in reverse so no issue. Checked calibration with a beam type and it right on the setting.
-chart-
 

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Aside from making sure the mating surfaces are free of corrosion and the stud threads are intact, technically the key to proper wheel torquing is to torque with the vehicle lifted and wheels only touching the ground enough to keep them from spinning. And of course NO FLUIDS OR LUBRICANTS
 
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