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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My son has 139K on his 2002 Taurus. The brake rotors have a lot of warp at 139K miles. I'm going to measure the rotor thickness tonight. Here are my questions:

1. Is turning these rotors a waste of time? ($30 /pr)
2. If I need new rotors, are Ford OEM rotors worth the price?
3. What is the difference (if any) between Ford OEM rotors and Motorcraft rotors?
4. What brand and type of front brake pads are recommended (again - are Ford OEM worth it)?

Thanks. Tom
 

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I have an 03 SEL wagon, I wanted to upgrade my 4 disc brakes so I went with an aftermarket rotor and pads.

Pads were Hawk HPS and the rotors were from a company called msport.

Braking is greatly improved. Dust residue is better than oem.

My brakes are noisier than oem when applied, not high pitch screechy but more of a low grinding noise. Increased braking power is more important to me than the noise.

Highly recommend the pads if you can put up with the noise during breaking. I'm assuming the pads have more of a contribution than the rotors.

Good luck.
 

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I bought these:

Ford Taurus 2001 2002 2003 2004 Brake Rotors and Pads F: eBay Motors (item 390210321636 end time Jul-16-10 06:28:06 PDT)

and am very happy. They look great and the price is right. Like davepett you can hear these brakes when applied but the sound is the same as his - a nice comfortable sound like you know you are going to stop. Love the look of the slotted rotors on the car.

I bought my 2002 ( same as yours) with 78000 on the odometer and when I hit the brakes at 65 the whole cars shook so bad I was scared. No more.
 

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don't bother turning the rotors. OEMs are to thing to turn. Are they the original rotors at 139k?

Replace them, also buy a torque wrench, rotors only work because they are not torqued properly.

Also, the feeling of warped rotors can happen when brake pad material is deposited onto the rotors and never heated up enough to burn off. Try doing a 5 or 6 of 60mph to 10mph fast threshold braking (brake as hard as you can with out activating the ABS or locking the brakes) and don't come to a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Crackhead, I'll try your idea of the cleaning the brake rotors of pad material. I measured the rotors last night and the left one is too thin to turn - so, new rotors if the pad cleaning doesn't work. Will I be able to see this pad material on the rotors? The rotors are very smooth (no groves) and seem to have some tiny spots of brown material on them. Is that the pad material?

My son drives 64 miles round trip to work each day, but 90% of his travel is on the interstate and he barely has to hit the brakes his entire trip. He works unusual shifts so he doesn't encounter any traffic. This "warped" feeling has come on gradually.

We and our tire installers use torque wrenches when tightening up the lug nuts.
 

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I bought the cheap rotors at napa and after about 10K miles it develeped a bad vibration. I inspected the rotors and both had cracks in them! Replaced them with higher quality ones and have not had a problem in about 25K miles so far. Lesson learned.... :)
 

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I can't remember if Ford issued a TSB off the top of my head or not, but while a technician, I received special training concerning the Taurus and it's rotors. Any time the wheels are removed for service, they cannot be reinstalled utilizing any air tools, not even with torque limiting sticks, because the use of air tools would create warped rotors.
 

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I don't buy that. I used the cheap AZ rotors and NEVER torqued them to spec. Rather around 110 ft/lbs. Ran them for way over 80k each.

When I went to good rotors (Raybestots Brute Stops) they develped radial cracks after a year. Never saw that on the cheapo AZ rotors.

I did get pulsation after a while but a good hard scrubbing at the track took care of that using OEM FORD pads.

The biggest problem at dealerships is using the cheap Motorcraft pads.
 

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Paul,

I am gong to suggest you were lucky with the cheapo rotors. Who knows what factory in China they came from. They may have randomly been made from one of the better lots of steel.

I have read many , many , many accounts of the cheap rotors not lasting for any number of reasons. I have also read of the expensive rotors having problems too. But much more issues with the cheaper ones.

Interesting to see if you can repeat it with similar results.
 

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Not really. I had two sets that lasted over 8 years. Many people with the V8s use the Amico rotors from AZ.

When I did get some "quality" rotors made by Raybestos, they lasted less than a year.
 

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Personally I do not trust any rotor manufacturer that is not certified under ISO/TS 16949. Under ISO/TS 16949, you can request information from the rotor manufacturer on your specific rotor. You can get information on who performed the machining on your rotor, the thickness variation of the brake plates (Which will be less than .0003" under ISO/TS 16949), the runout measurement (Which will be less than .001"), certified metallurgical chemical analysis (Cheaper castings use as little as iron as possible) and the hardness of the brake face in eight separate places.

A good example of a manufacturer who adheres to ISO/TS 16949 is Brembo, even in their OE replacements.

As for that TSB about the Taurus rotors, from Ford TSB 98-5A-5: "Brake roughness consists of one or more of the following symptoms while braking:
- Steering wheel vibration/nibble
- Seat vibration
- Brake pedal pulsation

Brake roughness is caused by:
- Uneven rotor wear known as Disc Thickness Variation (DTV). DTV is caused by excessive Lateral Run-Out (LRO) or overtorqued wheel lug nuts.
- Non-uniform lining transfer

NOTE: Using an impact tool without an AccuTorq socket will lead to unevenly torqued lug nuts. This causes rotor on-vehicle LRO and eventually DTV and brake roughness."
 

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Bit different paying $100s for a rotor or paying $35. Like I said get the cheap ones at AZ and spend the money on good pads. Even good, expensive rotors will act like crap if you use cheap pads on them.
 

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high quality pads and rotors are not that expensive on line.
I am using EBC green stuff on oem rotors, they work really good on my 06 (I have a extra set you can gdt for $25)
 

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Another large variation in the vibration issue stems from where you purchase them from and I am not talking about one large chain versus another large chain. The nice thing I notice with a lot of auto parts stores is the area where they stock their brake rotors is visible without having to excuse yourself to their restroom and "accidentally" get lost in the back room.

So far I've yet to see a single Pep Boys that didn't stock the rotors on their edge, Advance Auto Parts and AutoZones widely vary in this stock method. Stocking the rotors on their side will warp them before they are even put on a vehicle, more so if they are cheap ones.
 
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