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On #4--you have to "learn" the security module box thing to the car. It essentially teaches the car to treat it as an RKE fob. Repeat that instruction in the Remote Access Install guide, it feels like it may have gotten skipped. Just a guess, don't sue me if the advice fails!

:D
 

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On #4--you have to "learn" the security module box thing to the car. It essentially teaches the car to treat it as an RKE fob. Repeat that instruction in the Remote Access Install guide, it feels like it may have gotten skipped. Just a guess, don't sue me if the advice fails!

:D
I had the Remote access installed by the dealer originally. It's been installed for about 2 years. Do you happen to have the steps to "learn" it? I don't have any install instructions since they did it.
 

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Ok my upgrade update. I found a Sync 3 module out of a 2018 Ford Flex With nav (part number JA8T-14G370-ACE for reference) for 125 bucks. I got all of the parts in today and put it in. Everything went smooth. I used the VIN from the wrecked flex and added it to my ford account and downloaded the latest official Sync 3 release and used it to update it. Worked just fine. I then googled around until I found a 2017 Taurus SHO with my exact option set and used that VIN to get the as-built data and loaded that into the APIM. Came out exactly how I needed and I didn't have to manually change anything to get my features to work (that I've found yet).

Couple of notes:
1. If you have a heated steering wheel, then that "hole" behind the passenger airbag cover that is shown to put the GPS antenna in has a module in the way blocking that hole. You can take the 3 screws out move it, or if you hands are small enough you can just reach up through the glove box and get that cubby hole for the GPS antenna.

2. Some of the APIM data in the sheet doesn't match what i have. In the slot where a few of them are I have an number/letter that isn't even listed in the sheet as a possibility. Is that normal?

3. The nav change that you listed a few posts above didn't do anything for me. It was already listed as 8 in ForScan and it didn't give me those other options that you show. I have a 2014 for reference so it's a slightly different cluster.

4. I did check the remote access. It works 90% of the way. The remote start works perfectly fine (which is the most important part to me). The lock/unlock half works. When i hit lock on the app, it sends the signal, the car receives it, the lights flash, and the security system arms. The only that doesn't happen is the physical door lock doesn't change. So it stays physically unlocked even though the car is going through the motions like it's locked. Same for unlocking the car through the app. Any ideas on what might cause that? I rarely use that feature, but would be nice to have it fixed.

5. Everytime I start my car i get a "navigation fault". It pops up an error on the map, but then about 30 seconds later the map loads. It wouldn't be that bad except it actually pops up a window that i have to hit OK on every time. Any ideas here?
I'm responding to my own post because I made a couple of findings today. #5 was a bad GPS antenna. I tried a new one and now I don't have any problems. So if anyone gets that error, that's the first thing to try. While solving that, I found a great location for the antenna. under the little panel on the top of the dash with the center speaker. If you order the exact antenna that is listed in this guide, it fits perfectly. Just take the antenna out of the box, don't even take the twist tie off. You can plug it in,set the antenna right next to that speaker with some double sided tape, then route the cable down the right hand side. The circle of cable fits neatly on top/behind the APIM unit. Super simple, no wire routing and great vertical view position with only that plastic speaker grate between it and the sky. The cover goes back on without making any contact with the antenna (you can press down on that corner and there is still flex over there)
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I'm responding to my own post because I made a couple of findings today. #5 was a bad GPS antenna. I tried a new one and now I don't have any problems. So if anyone gets that error, that's the first thing to try. While solving that, I found a great location for the antenna. under the little panel on the top of the dash with the center speaker. If you order the exact antenna that is listed in this guide, it fits perfectly. Just take the antenna out of the box, don't even take the twist tie off. You can plug it in,set the antenna right next to that speaker with some double sided tape, then route the cable down the right hand side. The circle of cable fits neatly on top/behind the APIM unit. Super simple, no wire routing and great vertical view position with only that plastic speaker grate between it and the sky. The cover goes back on without making any contact with the antenna (you can press down on that corner and there is still flex over there)

Glad you found the issue to #5.


as far as #2, the spreadsheet doesn't have absolutely everything in regards to data. There's an unspeakable amount of things to screw with and I only put in the most useful things I have found so far into the spreadsheet. There's tons of things that just aren't necessary to have in the spreadsheet. Hopefully that answers the question?
 

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Glad you found the issue to #5.


as far as #2, the spreadsheet doesn't have absolutely everything in regards to data. There's an unspeakable amount of things to screw with and I only put in the most useful things I have found so far into the spreadsheet. There's tons of things that just aren't necessary to have in the spreadsheet. Hopefully that answers the question?
Thanks. I think it kind of does. When looking at the spreadsheet, I see the matching module address, but when i look at the digit that I'm supposed to modify the as-built data for my car doesn't match what the spreadsheet has as options. So for instance the spread sheet might say that options are A F Q R and mine has a 3 in that slot. I just was trying to make sure I wasn't reading something wrong there. (sorry, i don't have a specific example, I'll try to get one tonight).
 

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Thanks. I think it kind of does. When looking at the spreadsheet, I see the matching module address, but when i look at the digit that I'm supposed to modify the as-built data for my car doesn't match what the spreadsheet has as options. So for instance the spread sheet might say that options are A F Q R and mine has a 3 in that slot. I just was trying to make sure I wasn't reading something wrong there. (sorry, i don't have a specific example, I'll try to get one tonight).

Gotcha. Yeah, still potentially something I may have found to not be useful to have in the spreadsheet but that's something I'll definitely look into..


Oh and as far as the Navigation in the IPC, it might not be working because your car is a 2014. We have found recently in this thread that unfortunately the 2013 (my car) gauge cluster is different than pretty much every model year after 2013 for whatever messed up reason Ford came up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Quick update for the tutorial soon. It has come to my attention that the wiring adapter list indicating which wiring adapter each vehicle needs is slightly incorrect. I copied and pasted it from 4D when the thread was written and I guess they had it incorrect. It now displays a full chart which is much easier to understand. Soon, the thread will get that update for the list so I apologize if anyone may have ordered the wrong adapter!
 

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Care to enlighten us....

Unfortunately, FORScan is primitive technology against my application I use primarily. It doesn't display, nor translate nearly the amount of information as my primary choice of software. What I have discovered lately is that the APIM holds much more data related to other parts of the vehicle rather than just simply how many station presets it can show and if you have heated or cooled seats.


As per a previous post of mine, I cannot confirm the reasons as to what the APIM has to do with any of that information. My assumption is it acts as a bridge of communication to relay information to the rest of the vehicle, or it holds said data to correspond vehicle updates and security features. I believe it is the latter. FORScan unfortunately does not have the ability to interpret what modules act as gateways for one another or what networks relay specific blocks between each other. It simply provides manipulable data in the form of Hexadecimal for all responsive modules within a vehicle. I'm extremely curious as to where FORScan would translate how, where, and why the APIM is a gateway because to my knowledge it can't do that. I can also say the exact same goes for my own application. It simply translates bit values, but substantially more in depth than FORScan. This data also being found in the BCM and PCM is absolutely correct. However, if the APIM is a "gateway", I by all means should not have any capacity to alter fuel type, transmission properties, parking brakes, and other entities through the APIM. However, I do pertain aptness of such and that is why I've concluded the APIM physically holds data related to the mechanics of the vehicle.


For quick reiteration, FORScan and my own application do not have the ability to represent a module as a gateway into another module. There's no cogent reason for that. They lucidly present translated data within a singular module.


We are always open to education and growing our base of knowledge as I'm sure we can all agree upon. I'm typically very responsive and more than willing to provide as much knowledge as asked. If you have any other questions regarding this topic, you're more than welcome to send me a PM.

Care to enlighten us as to the application "you commonly use?"


UCDS can update firmware compared to ForScan, but unless you have a full CANBUS emulator there is no way to determine what every possible field in the ladder logic is for.


Ford does distinguish some parts are diesel vs petrol but that doesn't mean the module holds fuel info. It's just a build parts list.


If the APIM holds fuel info what logic field is it in?
 

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Care to enlighten us as to the application "you commonly use?"


UCDS can update firmware compared to ForScan, but unless you have a full CANBUS emulator there is no way to determine what every possible field in the ladder logic is for.


Ford does distinguish some parts are diesel vs petrol but that doesn't mean the module holds fuel info. It's just a build parts list.


If the APIM holds fuel info what logic field is it in?



Absolutely. It holds the same overall functions as UCDS and FORScan combined into one program with less bloat and a cleaner interface.


As far as the logic field, I couldn't tell you. FORScan and UCDS can't decode that. Once again, I have no answers as to why the APIM holds information that you would also find in the PCM or BCM, but it's there. I believe it holds it either as some type of relay or for something related to Ford's old maintenance checker which isn't supported anymore within SYNC. I'm sorry, but I don't have a lot of information as to why that information is present in the APIM.
 

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u/AdmiralSparklez this post is amazing. My wife drives a 2013 Ford Taurus Limited and has been using a crappy vent-mount for her phone for navigation. After her third phone mount broke, I started poking around at getting CarPlay running in this and came across your post. Thanks so much for these instructions, it gave me confidence to go through with this upgrade, which I’ve now completed.

I do have one major issue - the GPS with CarPlay is not reliable. I picked up a non-nav SYNC3 APIM and screen from a 2016 Taurus, figuring we’d use Google Maps via CarPlay anyways. It has the correct GPS unit attached, and it’s installed beneath the speaker grille as 4DTech and some users have suggested. It also has the latest SYNC software. Often it works completely fine. But then sometimes it will it show the location as about 50 meters to the left of the vehicle, and will attempt to reroute constantly thinking we’re on the wrong road. It makes it completely unusable as this can happen when we’re in an unfamiliar area and it’s not trustworthy.

I’m wondering if anyone can make some suggestions to correct this. Is it more likely that the antenna itself is faulty or that it’s not getting enough signal where it’s at? I’m not sure where I could possibly move it for better reception (without that wire sticking out on top of the dash anyway).

Another, much less serious, issue I encountered is that I hear a faint static noise from the unit whenever an audio source is enabled. For example, when Sirius is on but not getting a signal (in a garage) I hear a faint static noise where I believe it used to be completely silent. The noise can also be heard when playing audio at low volume, when the volume is increased it overpowers the noise but it’s likely still there. Any suggestions on this would be great, but we could live with it if the GPS issue could be resolved. Appreciate any help!
 

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As to Google Maps / Waze not showing the correct position, GPS is coming from your phone, not the SYNC3 system. When connected with Android Auto / Apple Car Play all the system is doing is presenting your phones screen in it's format along with allowing interface between the buttons on the screen and your phone. Static is either a bad connection with one of the wires or interference between signaling wires etc. If it isn't bad I doubt it would be worth it to pull apart the interior once more to attempt to isolate and fix.

Brook
 

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As to Google Maps / Waze not showing the correct position, GPS is coming from your phone, not the SYNC3 system. When connected with Android Auto / Apple Car Play all the system is doing is presenting your phones screen in it's format along with allowing interface between the buttons on the screen and your phone. Static is either a bad connection with one of the wires or interference between signaling wires etc. If it isn't bad I doubt it would be worth it to pull apart the interior once more to attempt to isolate and fix.

Brook
Thanks for the reply, Brook! That makes sense about the static. Is there a good way to diagnose it beyond making sure it's connected correctly? I'd probably only tinker with it if I have to swap the GPS module anyways...

I'm not sure about Android Auto, but from my research I'm quite sure that CarPlay takes the GPS reading from the vehicle or compatible head unit. I'd love it if it would use the phone's GPS as that is always spot-on accurate. I've tested with two iPhones (one on its own and one on SYNC3/CarPlay) with the same map route on and either phone by itself has no problems. They only have issues on SYNC3/CarPlay.
 

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I’m working on doing my sync 2 to sync 3 retro fit. Right now I have the screen and apim, USB ports, antenna, and wire harness on the way. I was wondering if I need to update to version 2.2 then 3.0 in sequence or if I can just go straight into 3.0? And also if there is any new links to an update?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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So I installed a Sync 3 system in my 2015 SHO. The car came with Sync 2 (My Ford Touch) with Navigation.

Lessons learned:

First, I searched for a screen with APIM locally. This took a few days, but I eventually found one with Nav from a 2017 F-150. This was my first mistake. The screen housing wasn't compatible with the brackets from my Taurus, and I got lucky modifying them to work with my car. I had to drill multiple holes in the brackets, and by some miracle I got all my measurements correct and the screen fits and lines up with the face plate opening. I don't recommend anybody get themselves into this situation. See the section about screen compatibility here:
Obviously I didn't find this page until after I bought my Sync 3 parts.

I ordered my other parts from eBay, 4dTech, and Tasca. I went with the Lincoln (white LED?) USB ports. It took 2 weeks to get the USB ports and bezel. The piece with the new USB ports arrived looking like it was a returned item, or had been unboxed previously. The finish on it looks like crap, like it got scuffed up somehow. But it's going in the glove box, and I'll be damned if I'm dealing with the hassle of returning a part and waiting again. Tasca is always so slow. Before ordering from Tasca, ask yourself, "Can I get this anywhere else for a similar price?"

As mentioned, somehow I got the screen mounted properly. Put everything back together. And fire up Forscan.
I knew the dual heated/cooled/massage seats and heated steering wheel would probably require programming. I was a little surprised that none of my climate controls (none at all) showed up on the Sync 3 display.
The Sync 3 APIM has more programmable blocks than the Sync 2 APIM. So I had two choices:
1. Flashing the entire APIM with AsBuilt data from a similarly equipped 2017 Taurus.
2. Flashing the matching blocks with AsBuilt from my Taurus, and then flashing the new blocks with data from a 2017 Taurus.
I went with option 1 and everything seems to be working so far.

The climate controls on my Sony faceplate suck. So I am relieved that flashing the AsBuilt data added climate control back onto the Sync 3 screen.

I hate losing my Aux input. Might have to find a way to add it back in.


Anyway, this was a success. Thank you to everyone that posted info about this process.
 

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I’m working on doing my sync 2 to sync 3 retro fit. Right now I have the screen and apim, USB ports, antenna, and wire harness on the way. I was wondering if I need to update to version 2.2 then 3.0 in sequence or if I can just go straight into 3.0? And also if there is any new links to an update?


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You do need to update progressively. You can't go straight to 3.0 because it doesn't hold the previous updates unfortunately.
 

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is there any REAL benefit to making this change, other than updated responsiveness of the touch screen and a few extra features? Just bought a 2015, so i am trying to do as much research as possible into what the car offers.
 

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Android Auto, Waze, etc. That was my motivation. It basically makes the head unit usable. If you have multi-contour/massage seats this makes it feel like a standard feature and not some setting you have to find to control the seats.

I think this is one of the best changes I've made to this vehicle.
 

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What happened to all the pictures? I can't see any of the pictures in the guide anymore. When I looked a few months ago they were there. Anyone know what happened?
 
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