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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car: 2001 Taurus SE with Vulcan and 82,000 miles (132,000km). Just purchased it two month ago. Done tune up (spark plugs, ignition wires, fuel filter), transmission fluid change, coolant change, oil (Castrol Syntec) and filter (OEM Motorcraft) change.

Question: when driving at low speed ~5-7mph occasionally Oil Pressure Light would start to flicker. Oil level is normal. What can be causing flickering light? And what is the remedy?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. I'm a newbie and I like this site and forum:)
 

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Car: 2001 Taurus SE with Vulcan and 82,000 miles (132,000km). Just purchased it two month ago. Done tune up (spark plugs, ignition wires, fuel filter), transmission fluid change, coolant change, oil (Castrol Syntec) and filter (OEM Motorcraft) change.

Question: when driving at low speed ~5-7mph occasionally Oil Pressure Light would start to flicker. Oil level is normal. What can be causing flickering light? And what is the remedy?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. I'm a newbie and I like this site and forum:)

Welcome! What viscosity oil are you running? Sometimes if the oil is too thin it will set off the oil pressure sender because its flowing effortlessly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Unless you live north of the Winisk river, I wouldn't be putting 0W20 in.
I live in Southern Ontario, GTA.

When I purchased a car, last owner was running 'Dino juice' with Lucas additive and Quaker State filter. Car had very same issue. So, I've switched to synthetic oil and Motorcraft filter but light still flickers maybe once in three weeks only when car moving at the snail pace. I use 5w-20, since that's what oil filler cap states.

If I leave it as is (by continuing using synthetic 5w-20), will there be any long term engine damage?
 

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There is if the light is flickering. Try a 0w30 or a 5w30.
 

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I don't know what pressure the idiot lights are set to but even if it stays off with different oil it is still probably borderline assuming the sending unit is not defective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't know what pressure the idiot lights are set to but even if it stays off with different oil it is still probably borderline assuming the sending unit is not defective.
Is there a way to diagnose if the sending unit is defective?
 

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The usual spec for good oil pressure is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. The oil sender should close at around 6-7 lbs.

You should take the sender out and insert a real gage. It is the only way to tell.
 

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Yeah I don't suggest running anything less than a 20 in a Vulcan. Ford only made the newer motors 5w-20 to meet CAFE regulations and its just too thin to provide the protection the motor needs at higher temperatures. 0w oil is fine because at 0w temps its a 0w and at 5w temps its essentially a 5w. I ran a 0w-30 with excellent results on my high mileage vulcan. With your oil pressure light coming on, there is a good chance you have some damage to the engine depending on its frequency.

Its a good idea to do away with the idiot light and put in a gauge.
 

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Don't get rid of the light, put a tee in and have both.
Well what I meant wasn't literal. ;) But thanks anyway.

I don't remember if these senders actually function. I always thought it was an "on/off" function. :huh:
 

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Is there a chance that light coming on is due to failing cam synchronizer?
Possibly. if the sensor is jamming yes.

If that's the case, then your engine for sure has damage. Without a doubt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Possibly. if the sensor is jamming yes.

If that's the case, then your engine for sure has damage. Without a doubt.
So,is there a point in replacing synchronizer assembly if there could be engine damage? CEL is not on and Low Oil Pressure Light flickers maybe once every 3 weeks at very slow speed. As soon as I start driving faster (or shift to N and gently raise the revs) light goes out. Car has Castrol Syntec 5W-20.

Sorry for repeating questions, but I just got this car two month ago and yesterday stumbled upon post regarding synchronizer assembly issue.
 

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Dump the 5w20 for a 0w30 or 5w30. And make sure you use a good filter, preferably a Motorcraft, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dump the 5w20 for a 0w30 or 5w30. And make sure you use a good filter, preferably a Motorcraft, IMO.
I did buy Motorcraft filter and just changed to this oil less then a month ago.

After reading all the horror stories regarding synchronizer assembly, I purchased today OEM part at the local Ford stealership for $255 and got aftermarket sensor made by BWD for $35. Hope it will cure problem with the light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not yet. But my car has a sound, similar to chirping described in the post regarding synchronizer failure. And I found Motorcraft synchronizer from RockAuto for $100 less, shipped to Canada. So, I still think it's a good idea to change it as a preventative maintenance. I'll go to see a mechanic as soon as my new part arrives.

Thanks for your help
 
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