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The Vulcan motor would be very similar to the SHO V6. The Duratec uses TTY bolts.

Basically you take the oil pan off and pull the bearing caps off one at a time. Pull out the old bearings using wood or plastic tools for pushing and prying the caps and bearings. Push the piston up a bit and insert the new bearings. There is a tab that locks them in place so be sure of the correct orientation. Use some lube on the new bearings.

The Duratec has special bearing caps and they need to go back on exactly the way the came off. Do not turn them around.

Seal up the pan with either a gasket or silicone depending on engine and away you go. Takes about 4 hours after the Y pipe. :) Can be done in the driveway.
 

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The Duratec has special bearing caps and they need to go back on exactly the way the came off. Do not turn them around.

\
The SHO I worked on had oriented caps. There was a little marker (arrow maybe) that indicated which direction it should point (it pointed toward the front of the motor)



Wasn't too bad, other than the fact that it was maybe 35* that day and I couldn't feel my hands/arms/feet
 

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[The Duratec has special bearing caps and they need to go back on exactly the way the came off. Do not turn them around. ]

I have never worked on an engine that the rod caps didn't have to go back on exactly as taken off. One side of the rod and cap has a chamfer that goes against the crankshaft radius. The other side that goes against the other rod is not chamfered. Also don't mix and match caps, each cap is matched to its own rod.
 

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I was referring to the "cracked" piston rods they use.
 

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ricer333, go pay a visit to your preferred independent mechanic with a $20 and ask him to break the Y pipe bolts loose. Mine loosened and then retightened when the job was done for that price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Bull Geek,
That's a very good point! I'll take that into consideration.

EDIT:
Since I'm not an automotive guy to start with, this video is a good explaination and diagrams well how the bottom end (larger end) of the connecting rod disassembles when the rod ends/bolts are removed. I don't know why it didn't click earlier, but now it makes more sense.

http://www.5min.com/Video/Connecting-Rod-Design-and-Function-39414850
second video:

Again, not sure if these bearings are needed to be replaced, but if the oil pressure is still low after changing out the pressure switch and synchro, it looks as though this will be the next step.

The only question I have is why would these bearings cause a dip in oil pressure in the first place, low enough to signal the oil pressure light (which after some research does seem to come on around 6 psi or lower)?
 

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Cake monster
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Bull Geek,
That's a very good point! I'll take that into consideration.

EDIT:
Since I'm not an automotive guy to start with, this video is a good explaination and diagrams well how the bottom end (larger end) of the connecting rod disassembles when the rod ends/bolts are removed. I don't know why it didn't click earlier, but now it makes more sense.

Connecting Rod Design and Function Video ? 5min.com
second video: YouTube - Automotive Connecting Rods 101

Again, not sure if these bearings are needed to be replaced, but if the oil pressure is still low after changing out the pressure switch and synchro, it looks as though this will be the next step.

The only question I have is why would these bearings cause a dip in oil pressure in the first place, low enough to signal the oil pressure light (which after some research does seem to come on around 6 psi or lower)?
It'll basically puke out of the bearings instead of building pressure if there's too much clearance.



That's for an SBF Windsor
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
JW657, SHOZ, and Bull Geek, thanks all for the information. JW657, your explanation and picture make more sense as to why rod bearings *could* cause the low pressure light to flicker.

Like I said earlier, I'll replace the oil pressure switch, which on the Vulcan I believe is on the backside (firewall side), driver's side, top part of the engine. Kinda hidden under the MAF sensor and air intake housing/tubing.

When I have that switch off, I'll hook up a pressure tester and get various readings from cold to running temp (have the car heat up to NORMAL on the water temp guauge.

Then after getting various readings, swap out the sensor and do the Camshaft Synchro replacement. From there I'll figure out what's next.

Just having knowledge about all this makes me feel better, calmer, about it all. I haven't noticed the oil light flicker any more. But knowing a potential problem exists always gets me nervous.

Thanks all! Rep power to you 3 has been given!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Update!

ok,
This past weekend I was able to successfully remove and test the oil pressure. I shot some video of it, but I'm a little hesitant to release it. Basically the oil pressure tested okay at the 2500 RPM range. After having the car run for 20 mins (mostly at idle) I didn't see the gauge drop below 10 PSI and stayed at 40 psi and above (depending on how warm the oil was) for 2500 RPMs.

I thought the problem was solved. I tossed in the new sensor, replaced the Cam Syncrho and sensor as per the threads here (btw, forgot about the 5.5 mm bolts for the sensor. Had to get a lift to AZ to get a new socket).

Here's the kicker. The next day I was driving around and I would put the car in Neutral before putting in Reverse (a technique that I've implored for quite some time as it takes a second for our Reverse to actually engage). Upon putting into Neutral, the car would drop the RPM's to 300 or so, I believe the PCM is still relearning itself since I unplugged the battery to do the Synchro job. Anyways, when the RPM's dripped this low AND the oil was at temp, the oil light would flicker again.

As soon as the gas was touched, the RPM's would climb above 600 and oil light would go away.

So, does this still sound like a Rod Bearing clearance issue? I haven't noticed it at idle like I first did coming off the highway. However, I have yet to fully test this.

Thanks!
 

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ok,
This past weekend I was able to successfully remove and test the oil pressure. I shot some video of it, but I'm a little hesitant to release it. Basically the oil pressure tested okay at the 2500 RPM range. After having the car run for 20 mins (mostly at idle) I didn't see the gauge drop below 10 PSI and stayed at 40 psi and above (depending on how warm the oil was) for 2500 RPMs.

I thought the problem was solved. I tossed in the new sensor, replaced the Cam Syncrho and sensor as per the threads here (btw, forgot about the 5.5 mm bolts for the sensor. Had to get a lift to AZ to get a new socket).

Here's the kicker. The next day I was driving around and I would put the car in Neutral before putting in Reverse (a technique that I've implored for quite some time as it takes a second for our Reverse to actually engage). Upon putting into Neutral, the car would drop the RPM's to 300 or so, I believe the PCM is still relearning itself since I unplugged the battery to do the Synchro job. Anyways, when the RPM's dripped this low AND the oil was at temp, the oil light would flicker again.

As soon as the gas was touched, the RPM's would climb above 600 and oil light would go away.

So, does this still sound like a Rod Bearing clearance issue? I haven't noticed it at idle like I first did coming off the highway. However, I have yet to fully test this.

Thanks!
Heh, that sounds to me like you idle control isn't working. Cars aren't meant to run at 300 RPM:p. Certainly that would drop oil pressure below specs. Idle shouldn't drop below 700 or so, regardless of condition, if the IAC is working properly and the intake isn't suffering any vacuum leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
WJC,
Thanks for the reply. Should I just toss a new IAC at the problem? I know they aren't hard to replace (a few bolts and a plug). Or is there a way to properly test the intake for vacuum leaks?

EDIT:
Seems like the most common way to test for vacuum leaks is taking brake cleaner and spraying it around the engine block. There is also this posting that caught my eye (http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/139394-just-purchased-gen-iv-3.html) but not sure if that is an issue. Worth a test of the cleaner sprayed there though.

I'm not having hard starts or bucking of the car. Just little RPM drops when I shift to Neutral. The TB was cleaned when we did the wires and plugs when I was having my P0301 code (found out that #1 wire was melted and arching). The MAF too was cleaned. I'm not sure if the mechanic sprayed any cleaner in the IAC or not. I don't mind putting a new IAC on, since they are about $50 and easy enough to change out.

Just wanted a few things to check off before ordering the part. That's all :)

Here is a link to YouTube that shows the stutter when shifted into Neutral. The car has only been running for 20 mins or so and I do not believe the oil is fully thinned out (at least enough to cause the light flicker).

 

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Well you know at 10 psi the light is off. If it's on the the pressure is below that.

What oil grade are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
I've been using 10w-30 Valvoline Extended Life (Syn Blend) for quite some time now; on the conservative side I would say 50,000 miles. I was changing out the oil every 3,000 miles but now have extended it to 5,000 mile changes. I've been doing the 5,000 mile oil change for about 15,000 miles or so.

I also was able to get the car warmed up enough today to show you all what I see when shifting into N from R or D. Linked below.


So the question I have is, is the IAC working as it should be working? Some here tend to think that my RPM's are rather low, even when the light is off. However, I have nothing else to compare it too.

EDIT:
SHOZ, I just came across a thread that you and I commented on almost 2 years ago (2/09). I had switched to 10w-30 at that point and also have only used a Motorcraft filter since doing all my own oil changes (screw that Fram shite).

I think it may be getting to the point of changing to a heavier weight oil (10w-40). The rod bearings may be worn down as well, but I won't know until I actually pull them or find someone to do it for me (a little nervous about rod bearings since we don't really have a procedure here - yes I know about the Gen1/2 SHO procedure, but it still doesn't give me the warm fuzzy like I had doing the Cam Synchro due to the knowledge and pics on the forums here.)

Lastly, I would just like some confirmation on the IAC. Since they aren't expensive or hard to replace, if people here think my RPM's are rather low, then maybe it's time for it to be replaced. The IAC is 10 years old (part is original and car was manufactured 9/00) and has 152+K miles on it. When the mechanic and I worked on the P0301 code we cleaned the MAF, TB, and I believe he tried cleaning the IAC as well, but I'm not sure. I had ducked out for a min when he pulled those parts off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Just wanted to bump this up and ask about the IAC.

It's still acting like that when shifting into N from D or R. If the oil has not thinned out, then the pressure is okay. Just want to know if

1) the RPMS seem right and
2) does anyone else's Vulcan engine dip below 500 RPMs when shifting into Neutral after the initial warm up? (~20+ mins driving)]

See YouTube video above :)
 

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Cake monster
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I'm not entirely sure about the hesitation. It doesn't seem right at all to me.

As for pulling the bearings, go and find a book about rebuilding SBFs. That will probably teach you more than any howto on a forum ever could. It may not be the same engine, but it'll be pretty similar. Once you read the book, you can find a howto on dropping the oil pan, then you're ready to go. It won't hurt if you go to a thicker oil, I certainly would if I were you. 10w40 or even some diesel oil (15w40).
 

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500 rpm is too low. It should be 600-700 rpm minimum. But you cannot exactly go by your tach at the low end. You need to get an OBDII scanner to see what the real rpm is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
thanks all!

I do have an OBD2 reader, unfortunately it isn't the most advance one and doesn't show the RPM's or any other information coming from the PCM. It may be time to get that Blue Tooth OBDII reader and hook up the ol' Android to get some readings.

I'll be going on an hour+ trip tomorrow out to Orlando. This will be the real test. This will ensure the oil is up to its temperature that triggered this whole mess in the first place. Since the Oil Pressure Switch and Cam Syncrho & Sensor are all new, if I get low pressure idiot light at idle, then I'll know for sure that the bearings need some work.

Thanks again TCCA! The mind is at ease... for now:salute:
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Resolved!

Just wanted to post back.

I did find 1 vacuum hose was disconnected, the one that connects up just before the MAF on the Firewall side. When I connected it up, the low RPM idle issue went away.

I have driven it for a good long (1.5 hour) drive and not notice the engine oil pressure light flicker. At this point, I think all is solved.

Here is what I did.

1) Change out the oil pressure switch, only after buying and hooking up an oil pressure gauge from AZ (had to buy, b/c the didn't have one to rent)
1a) verified that the oil pressure at 2500 RPM was between 40-60psi as stated in Haynes manual
1b) verified that at idle, the pressure did not come close to 6psi - this trips the pressure light on the dash

2) Changed out the Camshaft Synchor and Sensor. I had yet to do this, and although it was not 'chirping' it was still time to do it (152,000+ miles on the original one)

3) removed about 3/4 of a quart of oil. When the mechanic filled it up last time, he overfilled it. I have one of those quick oil valves that I can hook up a tube to and drain out what I need (I suggest everyone buy one of those!)

With these three things done, AND verifying that the vacuum hoses were all reattached properly, the problem is solved.

Note: Since the problem is resolved, I did not have to replace the Rod Bearings. If at this point all has failed to fix the oil pressure light, the Rod Bearings are the next thing to check, according to the senior members on this forum (TCCA).

Please sticky this!

Thanks!
 

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Cake monster
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Just wanted to post back.

I did find 1 vacuum hose was disconnected, the one that connects up just before the MAF on the Firewall side. When I connected it up, the low RPM idle issue went away.

I have driven it for a good long (1.5 hour) drive and not notice the engine oil pressure light flicker. At this point, I think all is solved.

Here is what I did.

1) Change out the oil pressure switch, only after buying and hooking up an oil pressure gauge from AZ (had to buy, b/c the didn't have one to rent)
1a) verified that the oil pressure at 2500 RPM was between 40-60psi as stated in Haynes manual
1b) verified that at idle, the pressure did not come close to 6psi - this trips the pressure light on the dash

2) Changed out the Camshaft Synchor and Sensor. I had yet to do this, and although it was not 'chirping' it was still time to do it (152,000+ miles on the original one)

3) removed about 3/4 of a quart of oil. When the mechanic filled it up last time, he overfilled it. I have one of those quick oil valves that I can hook up a tube to and drain out what I need (I suggest everyone buy one of those!)

With these three things done, AND verifying that the vacuum hoses were all reattached properly, the problem is solved.

Note: Since the problem is resolved, I did not have to replace the Rod Bearings. If at this point all has failed to fix the oil pressure light, the Rod Bearings are the next thing to check, according to the senior members on this forum (TCCA).

Please sticky this!

Thanks!
Great to hear that you've solved the problem. Just out of curiosity, what was the warm idle reading when you did the oil pressure test?
 
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