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The oil pressure should generally be 10 psi per 1000 rpm when at operating temperature as a rule of thumb.
 

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Could be caused by cheap oil filter or a filter with incorrect bypass settings.

If you don't have the correct Motorcraft oil filter on there, put it on and see if the light goes out!
 

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My '93 SHO had the hot oil at idle flicker. It developed a slight knock when under load. Took out the rod bearings and one was cracked in two.
 

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you say the oil pressure switch has been replaced. do you mean since you got the car, or since the light started flickering? If you haven't replaced it since the flickering started, I'd start there. They're cheap and easy to do and go bad often, usually with a small drop of oil coming out of it.
 

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Just looked at your video again.. Do your RPM's normally drop that low?

Maybe it's just a guage difference but mine usually is higher at a stop in gear (700-720), while yours seems to be well below that.
 

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I had a similar problem. In my case, turning off the engine and then restarting would clear the issue temporarily. Mine problem turned out to be sludge. I ran sea foam, then added BG quick clean and ran the engine for 10 minutes, drained the oil and refilled. Problem has not returned.

Hope this helps.
 

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Cake monster
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I had a similar problem. In my case, turning off the engine and then restarting would clear the issue temporarily. Mine problem turned out to be sludge. I ran sea foam, then added BG quick clean and ran the engine for 10 minutes, drained the oil and refilled. Problem has not returned.

Hope this helps.
That's a good thought. It's possible that the engine is sludged and causing some restriction in the passages or around the pump pickup. I suggested pulling a valve cover to get an idea of what the engine looks like inside. It's not hard to pull a valve cover, it's a little harder to pull the oil pan but it might be worth it.

Thicker oil likely wouldn't stop the light if it was sludge related.

Personally, I think these engines (the ones in the discussion of the thread) had their camshaft syncros shear at some point and caused a little oil starvation. Or possibly they ran low on oil. Probably happened before they were sold. I'm betting on the syncro though.
 

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STOP DRIVING!!!! I had the same exact problem, and i locked my engine, now im stuck trying to find a new one... and its a pain in the ass to swap engines for taurus...

TOW ur car to a shop ASPA, i drove a full 2 weeks with oil light flickering changed oil, ran computer codes, one morning my car just shut off to find out i locked my engine.
 

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STOP DRIVING!!!! I had the same exact problem, and i locked my engine, now im stuck trying to find a new one... and its a pain in the ass to swap engines for taurus...

TOW ur car to a shop ASPA, i drove a full 2 weeks with oil light flickering changed oil, ran computer codes, one morning my car just shut off to find out i locked my engine.
I've being driving for over six month and I mean driving (upshifts at the red line most of the time), so far so good. But I let engine to properly warm up, use premium fuel and synthetic oil with Motorcraft filter. If it's gonna go it's gonna go. Same like some people who are health freaks, but do get stroke or cancer. If it goes, will throw a new motor in or just replace whole car.
 

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Cake monster
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I've being driving for over six month and I mean driving (upshifts at the red line most of the time), so far so good. But I let engine to properly warm up, use premium fuel and synthetic oil with Motorcraft filter. If it's gonna go it's gonna go. Same like some people who are health freaks, but do get stroke or cancer. If it goes, will throw a new motor in or just replace whole car.
Redlining an engine with bad bearings is a horrible idea. Just sayin'

I wonder which will blow first, the poor ax4n or the engine? :lol2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
ok, just wanted to post back... wow, never thought this thread would get this outta control.

Here's a bit of an update.

1) to the Post that asks if my RPM's are always that low, the answer is YES, unless it is a cold morning in Florida and the car hasn't warmed up. Otherwise, the engine RPMs at Idle have always just been north of 500 (so roughly 600-700 RPMs).

2) I have not had the engine oil light flicker just driving around town. Even after the coolant level is showing the car warmed up.

2a) After driving down to Jupiter to spend NYE and weekend with friends, upon stopping at the house (after a 1.5 hour highway drive at 80 mph and just shy of 2800 RPM's) the oil light barely came on... nothing like the video. After the car cooling down, same thing, no oil flicker light.

I plan on renting the oil pressure test kit from AZ and ordering a new oil pressure switch anyways from RockAuto. They are like $9. When I test the pressure, I'll go ahead and show video of it all, just so we all have a reference point.

I also plan on switching out my Cam Synchronizer and sensor. I have not had the classic chirp, but at this point of mileage it isn't a bad idea to do it.

I am hesitant of putting in a heavier weight oil, since I've been running 10w-30 for a good long portion.

The only thing I ask is 'what is the procedure for checking the bearings'? Is it an easy job to do? Would it be easy to replace them?

Please explain with as much details as possible. I have never opened an engine up before.

Thanks all!

EDIT: I always use a Motorcraft filter (400-s) and the oil I've been using for 70,000+ is 10w-30 Valvoline Synthetic Blend (their high mileage red bottle)
 

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There really is no procedure for checking the bearings. You have to remove them and then you might as well change them.

Hardest part is removing the Y pipe. It can be done in the driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
ahh, so the bearings are on the bottom of the engine. By the bottom, I mean the area facing the ground.

I've tried removing that Y-pipe before to replace the gasket and couldn't get it to break. But okay.

Is it a hard procedure to replace the bearings? Shoz, can you give me a quick procedure so that I can estimate whether it's worth it?

EDIT:
Shoz, when you talk about 'rod bearings' are you talking about the 'Connecting Rod Bearing' that RockAuto.com has under the Engine section? If you are, there seems to be multiple sizes. 1) Standard, 2) .25MM, 3) .50MM, 4) .75MM

EDIT2: Found this link searching through Google. http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/154046-help-me-read-my-rod-bearings.html

Thank you!
 

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Cake monster
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ahh, so the bearings are on the bottom of the engine. By the bottom, I mean the area facing the ground.

I've tried removing that Y-pipe before to replace the gasket and couldn't get it to break. But okay.

Is it a hard procedure to replace the bearings? Shoz, can you give me a quick procedure so that I can estimate whether it's worth it?

EDIT:
Shoz, when you talk about 'rod bearings' are you talking about the 'Connecting Rod Bearing' that RockAuto.com has under the Engine section? If you are, there seems to be multiple sizes. 1) Standard, 2) .25MM, 3) .50MM, 4) .75MM

EDIT2: Found this link searching through Google. http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/154046-help-me-read-my-rod-bearings.html

Thank you!
You can get different sizes depending on how the machinist does the grinding and clean up, if it's not taken to a machinist, then you'll likely get the stock bearings. If the engine was ever rebuilt before there's a small chance that those bearings are a different size than stock, but that's unlikely.

The rod bearings go between the connecting rods and crank. Google "lower engine internals" and check the images you get, you'll see the full rotating assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
You can get different sizes depending on how the machinist does the grinding and clean up, if it's not taken to a machinist, then you'll likely get the stock bearings. If the engine was ever rebuilt before there's a small chance that those bearings are a different size than stock, but that's unlikely.

The rod bearings go between the connecting rods and crank. Google "lower engine internals" and check the images you get, you'll see the full rotating assembly.
Thanks,
The engine has never been rebuilt, so I'm assuming that Standard would be the way to go if they are at fault.
I'll take a look at the Ford CD at home and the Haynes manual I have as well to get a better idea.

I've got the oil pressure switch and camshaft synchro on order from RockAuto. I'm going to hook up an oil pressure tester when I get those parts in and verify things.

Btw, how long should bearings last? 150,000 miles on my engine now.
 

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Cake monster
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Thanks,
The engine has never been rebuilt, so I'm assuming that Standard would be the way to go if they are at fault.
I'll take a look at the Ford CD at home and the Haynes manual I have as well to get a better idea.

I've got the oil pressure switch and camshaft synchro on order from RockAuto. I'm going to hook up an oil pressure tester when I get those parts in and verify things.

Btw, how long should bearings last? 150,000 miles on my engine now.
On a perfectly maintained engine, they would likely go well past 250,000 miles. Maybe more. These engines are mile makers if maintained.
 

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I haven't seen a writeup for replacing the bearings on a vulcan or duratec, but here's one for the G1/2 SHO, same principle.

SHO Phoenix Project
 
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