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Which amp would do the best in, if I was trying to boost the output of my jbl sub? Or I might as well get a new 6.5 inch sup to let it have sit in the third speaker hole in the back. Thanks!

Do you think this one might do the trick?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Eclipse-XA1000-...r_Amplifiers&hash=item3a5cf6d198#ht_500wt_928

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/BLAUPUNKT-THA13...r_Amplifiers&hash=item4aa025b322#ht_939wt_907
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Which amp would do the best in, if I was trying to boost the output of my jbl sub? Or I might as well get a new 6.5 inch sup to let it have sit in the third speaker hole in the back. Thanks!

Do you think this one might do the trick?
Eclipse XA1000 mono subwoofer amplifier - eBay (item 250667782552 end time Aug-15-10 17:24:50 PDT)

or

BLAUPUNKT THA1350 Thin Mono 1 Channel Car Amplifier Amp - eBay (item 320514405154 end time Aug-06-10 12:11:57 PDT)


those are two very good amps only problem is if powering oem gear they will destroy it unless your talking anothert jbl sub. got to rember the taurus came with a jbl set up. but i am not sure which you have the oem or after market jbl subs? if looking to throw a little more bass to the set up i can help find you a four cahannel in the same price range but i suggest up gradeing from oem to after market speakers. even thogut they have a great sound system in the taurus already. the after market will beat the stock ten fold in sound quality. so let me know what you want to do if it replace the door and rear deck speakers or add a sub etc...
 

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those are two very good amps only problem is if powering oem gear they will destroy it unless your talking anothert jbl sub. got to rember the taurus came with a jbl set up. but i am not sure which you have the oem or after market jbl subs? if looking to throw a little more bass to the set up i can help find you a four cahannel in the same price range but i suggest up gradeing from oem to after market speakers. even thogut they have a great sound system in the taurus already. the after market will beat the stock ten fold in sound quality. so let me know what you want to do if it replace the door and rear deck speakers or add a sub etc...
Well eventually I will be upgrading the aftermarket speaker system, not looking to spend a lot of money. My main concern is to up the bass. Currently I have the JBL system in with the JBL sub. I am looking for a similar size sub to replace the oem sub since I would perfer a louder sub (though I love the deep sounds it makes). I do not want a big sub in the back of the trunk, I would rather perfer to have it on the rear deck. Though I do want an amp to handle a lot since in the long run I may eventually go with the big sub. For now, I just want something simpler. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
what is your thought on some thing like this aura pro bass shaker read the desceription and think about it and it is 100% true. mite be able to add two to the front seats and see how they work off a small amp like the 44.99 amp i am thinking of. i will post in a minute with a edit to this one post .

Aura Pro Bass Shaker | Parts-Express.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/SOUNDSTREAM-Di175-1-MONO-175-WATT-Car-Audio-Amplifier-/230428853006?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item35a6a1430e
then there is always this one
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2382008/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046


you could go for the one from hifi sound connection and just upgrade the front speakers the amp from hifi sound connection. that amp has hi level input but not sure if you can use that or if you need the low out put converter to hook that amp up. i like pioneer speakers and cadence speakers either will do you good but it just my opinionation. also run one set off one channel in parallel is how i would do it.
even these in series off that amp ran at 4 ohm
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/3529073/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046
 

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what is your thought on some thing like this aura pro bass shaker read the desceription and think about it and it is 100% true. mite be able to add two to the front seats and see how they work off a small amp like the 44.99 amp i am thinking of. i will post in a minute with a edit to this one post .

Aura Pro Bass Shaker | Parts-Express.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/SOUNDSTREAM-Di175-1-MONO-175-WATT-Car-Audio-Amplifier-/230428853006?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item35a6a1430e
then there is always this one
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2382008/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046


you could go for the one from hifi sound connection and just upgrade the front speakers the amp from hifi sound connection. that amp has hi level input but not sure if you can use that or if you need the low out put converter to hook that amp up. i like pioneer speakers and cadence speakers either will do you good but it just my opinionation. also run one set off one channel in parallel is how i would do it.
even these in series off that amp ran at 4 ohm
Infinity 6822cf Car Audio Reference 6x8" 5x7" Door 2-Way Speakers
Well that small might be the desired size, just i do enjoy the sound as well that is the best part of it and the vibration it gives. I enjoy the air being vibrated that is then heard from my ear drum. Basicallly I probably just want to add a sub, or give more power to my 6.5 JBL sub which came oem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Well that small might be the desired size, just i do enjoy the sound as well that is the best part of it and the vibration it gives. I enjoy the air being vibrated that is then heard from my ear drum. Basicallly I probably just want to add a sub, or give more power to my 6.5 JBL sub which came oem.

i wish i knew it was a 6.5 inch. they do not make 6x9's for subs very often this is what i thought you had glad you came back on to tell me that check these out. the best one is the kicker. besides the one that is sold out.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=33
To bad these are sold out or I would say get them
http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=183&zenid=94ee35e53ca844263705ec4f39b45ca4
here is a cheap kicker

http://www.millionbuy.com/kik08cvt652.html

could run any of these off the amp that kicker 100.2 I listed for 56.99 from hifi sound connection
if looking at the kicker or others mite want to pick up some of these it will become a sealed box with it around it if any thing
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-788
 

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i wish i knew it was a 6.5 inch. they do not make 6x9's for subs very often this is what i thought you had glad you came back on to tell me that check these out. the best one is the kicker. besides the one that is sold out.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=33
To bad these are sold out or I would say get them
http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=183&zenid=94ee35e53ca844263705ec4f39b45ca4
here is a cheap kicker

(54.95) KICKER 08CVT652 (CVT65) <br>6.5" Single 2-Ohm 300W CompVT Series SUBWOOFER

could run any of these off the amp that kicker 100.2 I listed for 56.99 from hifi sound connection
if looking at the kicker or others mite want to pick up some of these it will become a sealed box with it around it if any thing
XTC 6-1/2" Foam Baffle Pair | Parts-Express.com
Glad I did come back what do you think of this one...
NEW KICKER 2010 CVT65 6.5" SUB CAR STEREO CVT SUBWOOFER: eBay Motors (item 310233768016 end time Aug-12-10 19:02:00 PDT)

Price is pretty good, watt is 300 which is excellent, and I believe should hold in a 6x8 hole? And then that cover would even be better with it! now with the amps... do you have a good recommendation that can handle the sub with maximum out put that is also reliable?
I appreciate all this help!! and yes I will be upgrading the speakers sooner or later, but I want to wait on those, the 6.5 inch sub is what I really want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Glad I did come back what do you think of this one...
NEW KICKER 2010 CVT65 6.5" SUB CAR STEREO CVT SUBWOOFER: eBay Motors (item 310233768016 end time Aug-12-10 19:02:00 PDT)

Price is pretty good, watt is 300 which is excellent, and I believe should hold in a 6x8 hole? And then that cover would even be better with it! now with the amps... do you have a good recommendation that can handle the sub with maximum out put that is also reliable?
I appreciate all this help!! and yes I will be upgrading the speakers sooner or later, but I want to wait on those, the 6.5 inch sub is what I really want.

that is a awesome sub it is 150 rms which is .707 times the peak power rating which is a smaller amount of what it should be. rms is root means squared and is what you pick your amps for and subs for. i belive the sub is four ohm from e bay the kicker one and it is a good sub what i suggest is the one from hifi sound connection i will post in a mintue on a edit which is 100x1 @4 ohms rms bridge mode or the 200 .2 which is [email protected] 4 ohms rms bridge mode. i will see what i can find for you in that one but they will put out more power then rated so becarefull they are strong ones.

this is the amp you hook up on bridge mode http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2382008/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046
the others they carry are the 200.2 which is refurbished. i have owned one my self but i was not sure what your thought of owening basicaly pre owned equipment was. so i will list the new one the 200.2 is the same brand as the one i listed at the link i posted just now. and they carry it at the same place only refurbished.
 

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that is a awesome sub it is 150 rms which is .707 times the peak power rating which is a smaller amount of what it should be. rms is root means squared and is what you pick your amps for and subs for. i belive the sub is four ohm from e bay the kicker one and it is a good sub what i suggest is the one from hifi sound connection i will post in a mintue on a edit which is 100x1 @4 ohms rms bridge mode or the 200 .2 which is [email protected] 4 ohms rms bridge mode. i will see what i can find for you in that one but they will put out more power then rated so becarefull they are strong ones.

this is the amp you hook up on bridge mode Kicker ZX1002 ZX Amp Car Audio 50 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier
the others they carry are the 200.2 which is refurbished. i have owned one my self but i was not sure what your thought of owening basicaly pre owned equipment was. so i will list the new one the 200.2 is the same brand as the one i listed at the link i posted just now. and they carry it at the same place only refurbished.
Alright, that kicker sub woofer is what I want, the amp....Well I need some clarification on that. Price is good, that doesn't bother me, but the channels it says there is
RMS Power Ratings:
35 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms
50 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 ohms
100 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms

What does that all mean up there? does it mean i can only output one at 100 watts aka for the sub? or? And I think for the 100 rms the sub can handle 150, is it under powered just so it doesn't blow out my sub? The amp doesn't have a bass power know, does that mean it output's make frequency, or is the control on the amp itself?

Lastly, I am going to ebay to order that kicker, any ideas if there is even lower price? But what else will I need to connect the amp to the JBL rcu?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ya the amp is a bit under sized i figure it would come with a better warranty then getting it on e bay cause it was a authorized dealer for cheap. you are right your better off over sizing the amp and that 100.2 will have extra power on that one channel like 135 rms not 100 rms. the reason your better off over sizing the amp when you set the gain your not forced to get it close to clipping when you set the gain on the amp. this is hypothetical but if you under size the amp. you will clip instantly when you set the gain close to like 2 volts of the 2 v of a output signal of the head unit or what ever. the closer you get to 2 volts the more you push it in to clipping because the amp is to small you feel you do not have enough power and some times clip it to easily. clipping is the squaring off of the top of a sine wave. so it look more like a square wave. which is very bad for the amp and sub.if you need a pic of this i am sure i can find you one. any ways



Just need four items to hook up that sub a wire kit a loc and the sub and amp.
I think the 100.2 has more power then listed but if you feel it needs more then check this one out.
Good amp
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-ZX200-2-08ZX200-2-Channel-400W-Car-Amplifier-/300446261400?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item45f3fe2098
wire kit for amp
http://cgi.ebay.com/STREETWIRES-PSKA8R-8-AWG-GAUGE-WIRING-INSTALL-AMP-KIT-/250676757990?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5d7fc5e6
I wish it said 4 gage terminals for this amp it only excepts up to 8 gauge so keep that in mind why I listed 8 gauge .
your better of using this stinger then the ones below it
http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SALOC-HIGH-LOW-LEVEL-OUTPUT-CONVERTER-35X2-/130414213053?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5d4af7bd
this one is ok
http://cgi.ebay.com/RCA-Car-Line-Converter-Output-Adapter-HI-LOW-LEVEL-402-/400003502923?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item5d2211134b
this one sucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RCA-Car-Line-Converter-Output-Adapter-HI-LOW-LEVEL-/260632022519?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3caee10df7
this is as cheap as I could find the sub
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVT65-R-CAR-AUDIO-COMP-CVT-SHALLOW-6-5-SUB-/310238317104?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item483ba50a30
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
here is a little more info on in then the above post this is directly from bcae1.com



Too Little Power: As you have probably heard, some people say that too little power can blow speakers. Well... How can I say this... BULL S***
Too little power will only cause the maximum output level to be low. Abuse and the defective 'wing nut' (an idiot) connected to the volume control blow speakers with low powered amplifiers. If driving a speaker with low power would cause them to fail, speakers would fail every time you lower the volume on the head unit. I will try to explain what happens when speakers are driven with clipped signals but remember... you get what you pay for. :)
Note: This page deals mainly with speaker damage that involves thermal damage of the voice coil. Speakers can also be damaged mechanically by driving it beyond what the suspension can handle. Mechanical damage is generally caused by driving the speaker with too much power but it can also be done when a speaker is in a ported enclosure and is driven with frequencies below the port tuning frequency. Most of the damage I've seen has been thermal damage to the voice coil.
Damaging Woofers: When a woofer is driven with a high powered amplifier to high levels, there will be a significant amount of current flowing through the voice coil. Since the voice coil has resistance, there is a voltage drop across the speaker's voice coil (which the amplifier appreciates greatly :). This means that there may be a great amount of power being dissipated (in the form of heat) in the voice coil. When a speaker is driven with lots of clean power, the cone moves a great deal (in proportion to the output voltage from the amplifier). For speakers with vented pole pieces (or other types of venting), this movement forces a lot of air to flow in the magnetic gap (area where the voice coil rides). When the woofer moves out of the basket, the chamber that's under the dust cap and around the voice coil expands (increases in volume) which pulls cool air into the magnetic gap. When the woofer moves the other direction, the chamber size is reduced and the hot air is forced out of the vent in the pole piece. This air flow cools the voice coil. If a relatively low powered amplifier is driven into clipping (to a full square wave for a lot of people), a relatively large portion of the time, the voltage delivered to the voice coil no longer resembles a sine wave as it would with an unclipped signal. While the amplifier's output is clipped, the voice coil is not being motivated to move as far as it should for the power that's being delivered to it and therefore is likely not being cooled sufficiently (since the speaker is driven by a linear motor, the voltage applied to the voice coil determines how far the voice coil moves from its point of rest). At points a, b, d, e, f and h the voltage is changing causing the voice coil to move in the gap and therefore pull in fresh cool air. At points c and g, the voice coil may still be moving a little due to momentum but may not be moving enough to cool properly. Remember that during the clipped portion of the waveform current is still flowing through the voice coil. Since the displacement of the voice coil (and therefore the airflow around the voice coil) is no longer proportional to the heat being generated, the voice coil can overheat. This excess heat may cause the voice coil former to be physically distorted and/or melt the insulation off of the voice coil wire and/or cause the adhesives to fail (especially if the speaker is rated to handle no more than the power that the amp can produce cleanly). If your speakers are rated (honestly) to handle the maximum 'clean' power that your amplifier can produce, slight clipping isn't generally a problem. Severe clipping is more likely to cause a problem.

Severe Clipping (square wave): It always amazes me when I hear some idiot driving down the road and the audio is clearly distorted (is that possible :). Many people drive their amplifiers into what could be called a square wave output (white line below). When an amplifier is pushed that hard, it is actually possible to drive the speaker with twice as much power as the amplifier can cleanly produce into the speaker. As you can see below, the yellow sine wave is the maximum 'clean' output that the amp can produce. When an amplifier is pushed way too hard, the signal will eventually look like the white line. The effective voltage of the white line is ~1.414 x the yellow line. This means the the total power driven into the speaker by the clipped (square wave) signal is double the power delivered by the 'clean' signal (yellow line). This means that the power is double but the cooling of the voice coil will not increase in proportion with the power increase (since the voice coil isn't moving as much as it needs to be for the given power dissipation). This will lead to the voice coil overheating. If we compared the output of a 100 watt amp (the one that's clipping) to a 200 watt amp, the 200 watt amplifier would be able to push the speaker as much as 40% farther than the 100 watt amp (depending on the frequency of the signal). This extra travel (in each direction from its point of rest) would result in added airflow around the voice coil.

Note: The RMS voltage of a pure sine wave is equal to the peak voltage multiplied by 0.707. The RMS voltage of a pure square wave is equal to the peak voltage. For 2 waveforms with equal amplitude (as shown above), the RMS voltage of the square wave is 1.414 times the voltage of the sine wave. If we use the example of the 100 watt amp which can produce a sine wave of 20 volts RMS, we can see that the output power at hard clipping is double the power it can produce cleanly.
Clean Signal Calculations: P = E^2/R P = 20^2/4 (4 ohm speaker) P = 400/4 P = 100 watts RMS

Square Wave Signal Calculations: P = E^2/R P = 28.28^2/4 (the RMS voltage is 1.414 times the RMS voltage of the sine wave) P = 800/4 P = 200 watts RMS

If you need more info about peak, peak-peak and RMS waveforms, click here.
Note: As I've said somewhere else on the site, there's actually no such thing as RMS power. The proper term is average power. I use the term RMS power anywhere that RMS voltage is driven into a resistive load. The purists just hate when someone uses the term RMS power. Since the term RMS power is used by most everyone in the industry, I'll use it here also. It may not be technically correct but it's less confusing for some.
In the following table I drove a speaker with an amplifer in full clip (square wave) at 3 different frequencies. In each case I measured the voltage across the speaker terminals with a true RMS volt meter. To get equal power from the square wave signal AND the 'clean' signal, I took the voltage reading from the square wave signal and multiplied it by 1.414 and used that voltage (peak voltage) for the clean signal. The RMS readings for the square wave and the sine wave were the same. Both the square wave and the sine wave would produce approximately the same power dissipation in the voice coil and therefore the same heat output. As you can see, the square wave signal did not move the cone as far as the 'clean' sine wave signal. Since the cone has more excursion with the clean signal, the voice coil will have more air flow which will result in more cooling (especially for woofers with vented pole pieces). The woofer was a long excursion unit made by Eminence. The excursion measurements are all in one direction. The voltages below were the peak AC voltages as read on the scope. The output voltages vary with frequency due to the impedance variations of the speaker at the different frequencies.


Test Data 'Square Wave' Voltage
vs
Excursion 'Clean' Voltage
vs
Excursion Difference
in
Displacement 60 Hertz 23.6vac
0.32" 33.4vac
0.49" 0.17" 45 Hertz 23.8vac
0.33" 33.6vac
0.46" 0.13" 30 Hertz 21.8vac
0.29" 30.8vac
0.39" 0.1"
Note:
  • If your speakers are capable of handling significantly more than your amplifier can produce, driving them with a clipped signal will not likely hurt them.
  • If the speakers can handle 3 or 4 times the power that your amplifier can produce, there's virtually no way to damage your speakers (no matter how clipped the signal is).
  • If your speakers are rated for the same power handling as your amplifier is capable of producing cleanly, driving them with a clipped signal for extended periods of time may cause speaker damage and/or premature failure.
  • If your speakers are rated for the same power handling as your amplifier is capable of producing cleanly, driving them with a square wave signal for extended periods of time will likely cause speaker damage.
For more information on speaker ratings, click here.



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Damaging Tweeters: There are several factors that will determine whether or not clipping will cause damage to tweeters. If the tweeters are connected directly to the amplifier (no passive crossover) and the amplifier is driven into clipping, the time that the signal is clipped, the tweeters' voice coils will be subjected to short bursts of undesireable power. This will cause undue/unnecessary heating of the tweeters' voice coils. More severe clipping will cause even more undue voice coil heating. The following is what the tweeter will 'see' when the amplifier clips. The flat parts of the waveform indicate clipping.

If the tweeters are connected to a passive crossover (passive crossover between the amp and the tweeter), the clipping may have little or no effect on the tweeters' reliability. When the amplifier clips, there will be essentially no instantaneous output from the crossover (during the time the amplifier is actually clipping) and there will be virtually no voice coil overheating from the clipping. The only additional power going to the tweeter (during clipping) may be from harmonics. When amplifiers are pushed into clipping, harmonics are generated. Many times these harmonics are similar in frequency content to the high frequencies which are allowed to pass through high pass passive crossovers. When the harmonics pass through the xover, they will be responsible for only slightly more power being generated in the voice coil (the harmonics are not going to cause the tweeter to fail). This slight increase in power that the speaker receives from the harmonics is nothing compared to the power generated during clipping (if the passive crossover were removed from the circuit). The following signal is the same signal as shown in the previous example but after it is passed through a high pass passive crossover. You can see that there is no clipping component. If you're continually blowing tweeters and they're connected directly to your high end amplifier (even though you have the electronic crossover set to the right frequency for your tweeters), adding a passive crossover (even a simple first order filter) in series with the tweeter may help save your tweeters.

This diagram shows both waveforms, the average power for the top waveform is approximately 10dB more for the waveform where the tweeter is driven directly by the amplifier. This means that... if the bottom waveform is producing 10 watts of power across the tweeter's voice coil, the tweeter connected directly to the amplifier will be receiving 100 watts and producing no more audio but the tweeter is definitely more likely to fail.

Note:
  1. The system shown in this example could be improved by increasing the crossover frequency, using both the electronic and passive crossovers or using an amplifier with more headroom.
  2. Unless the amplifier is rated for SIGNIFICANTLY higher power output than the tweeter is capable of handling, the tweeter will not instantly blow if the amp is driven into clipping. This is especially true when using both active and passive crossovers in combination.
  3. If the tweeters are rated (honestly) to handle significantly more than the amplifier can produce, driving the amp into clipping may never damage the tweeter.
  4. If someone says that clipping will definitely blow tweeters and someone else argues that clipping will never blow tweeters and no more information is given in the argument, chances are pretty good that neither of them know what they're talking about (or at the very least, they're not looking at all of the different possibilities).
Tweeter Protection: There are a few people who can not hear when a tweeter is being overdriven (even if it's obvious to everyone else). Those people need tweeter protection. Many manufacturers use a lamp to limit the current passing through the tweeter's voice coil. The lamp allows normal operation at low to moderate volume but, as the the filament in the incandescant lamp heats up, it's resistance increases. The following graph shows how the power going to the tweeter is significantly reduced at high power but is affected little at low power. The lamp I used would be good for tweeters rated for 10 watts or less. To allow more power to get to the tweeter, you'd choose a lamp with a higher power rating.

Test Lamp Information
Sylvania 211-2 Resistance Cold: 0.85 ohms Current @ 13.86vdc: 1.05 amps Power: 14.55 watts
Data: The following shows:
  • The voltage generated at the amplifier's speaker terminals
  • The power that the above voltage would produce into the 4 ohm load used in the test (if the lamp were bypassed)
  • The current flow through the load and lamp
  • The power actually driven into the load
  • The voltage across the load


One last thing... The best protection for your speakers is to use a little common sense. Just because your head unit's volume control goes to 35, that does not mean you can set it at 34 and expect no clipping. It doesn't even mean that you're going to be safe at 25. Depending on the gain settings, the head unit's tone control settings and the music source, you may be able to drive the system into clipping at virtually any point on the volume control. Listen carefully for distortion and stress.

Test tones clipped: The following .wav files are a 100hz and a 1khz test tone played 'clean' for one second, then clipped for one second and is repeated 3 times. They may take a few seconds to load. Please be patient.
Note: If your computer uses winamp to play the wav files, it will have a spectrum analyzer. In the display, you can see the harmonics come into view when the signal is clipped. It appears as little spikes at frequencies higher than the fundamental (the fundamental is leftmost and the harmonics are to the right of it at regular intervals). It is especially apparent in the 1000hz file.
WARNING: Turn your sound card's volume to its lowest position before clicking on the links below.
1000hz 100hz
Music Clipped: The following link is a sample of music in MP3 format. The left channel is severely clipped. The right channel is clean. Use the balance slider on your MP3 software to shift from left to right. In the picture below, you can see that the top (left) signal is clipped and the bottom (right) signal is not. The image was taken directly from the wavefile that was converted to the MP3 file below. When listening to the file, pay special attention to the bass drum track.
As a side note... Even though the signal is severely clipped, it can be difficult to hear at some points in the track. When you hear someone driving their amplifiers so far into clipping that it's clearly audible, you'll know that the waveform that's being sent to the speakers doesn't even resemble the original waveform.
Clipped Music

You should remember:
1.Idiots blow speakers, not low power.
 

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ya the amp is a bit under sized i figure it would come with a better warranty then getting it on e bay cause it was a authorized dealer for cheap. you are right your better off over sizing the amp and that 100.2 will have extra power on that one channel like 135 rms not 100 rms. the reason your better off over sizing the amp when you set the gain your not forced to get it close to clipping when you set the gain on the amp. this is hypothetical but if you under size the amp. you will clip instantly when you set the gain close to like 2 volts of the 2 v of a output signal of the head unit or what ever. the closer you get to 2 volts the more you push it in to clipping because the amp is to small you feel you do not have enough power and some times clip it to easily. clipping is the squaring off of the top of a sine wave. so it look more like a square wave. which is very bad for the amp and sub.if you need a pic of this i am sure i can find you one. any ways



Just need four items to hook up that sub a wire kit a loc and the sub and amp.
I think the 100.2 has more power then listed but if you feel it needs more then check this one out.
Good amp
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-ZX200-2-08ZX200-2-Channel-400W-Car-Amplifier-/300446261400?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item45f3fe2098
wire kit for amp
http://cgi.ebay.com/STREETWIRES-PSKA8R-8-AWG-GAUGE-WIRING-INSTALL-AMP-KIT-/250676757990?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5d7fc5e6
I wish it said 4 gage terminals for this amp it only excepts up to 8 gauge so keep that in mind why I listed 8 gauge .
your better of using this stinger then the ones below it
http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SALOC-HIGH-LOW-LEVEL-OUTPUT-CONVERTER-35X2-/130414213053?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5d4af7bd
this one is ok
http://cgi.ebay.com/RCA-Car-Line-Converter-Output-Adapter-HI-LOW-LEVEL-402-/400003502923?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item5d2211134b
this one sucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RCA-Car-Line-Converter-Output-Adapter-HI-LOW-LEVEL-/260632022519?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3caee10df7
this is as cheap as I could find the sub
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVT65-R-CAR-AUDIO-COMP-CVT-SHALLOW-6-5-SUB-/310238317104?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item483ba50a30

Ah ok, well here is another questoin how do I connect this amp to the Rcu on the tauraus? Would I have to be cutting wires as well? sounds painful :p

And running the wire from the battery to the amp, Is there a clean pathway, or would I need to be tearing things up to get to it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ah ok, well here is another questoin how do I connect this amp to the Rcu on the tauraus? Would I have to be cutting wires as well? sounds painful :p

And running the wire from the battery to the amp, Is there a clean pathway, or would I need to be tearing things up to get to it?

if you use the stinger audio l.o.c. all you do is solder wires to the oem speakers in the rear deck and connect the speaker wires to the l.o.c.. then a rca from the loc to the amp. as for the amp wire use a kit like the one i showed you it should be a strait run from front to back as most cars are. i know there are guys on here that will help no questiones asked. also have you measured the mounting depth for the woofer just to be safe. which is the max clearence in depth from the mounting surface just to be safe. you know because all i know is the speakers not the exact car.
 

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if you use the stinger audio l.o.c. all you do is solder wires to the oem speakers in the rear deck and connect the speaker wires to the l.o.c.. then a rca from the loc to the amp. as for the amp wire use a kit like the one i showed you it should be a strait run from front to back as most cars are. i know there are guys on here that will help no questiones asked. also have you measured the mounting depth for the woofer just to be safe. which is the max clearence in depth from the mounting surface just to be safe. you know because all i know is the speakers not the exact car.
Ah alright! well in the next couple months I will be getting the components, may be a good winter job since I can do that in the garage! :p. Thank you Sadistic I appreciate all the time and help you put into this.
 
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