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The fuse was not the problem but an outcome of something else wrong. If fuse blows again then it is troubleshooting time. I would start at 02 sensor wires touching hot exhaust and maybe a bad AC clutch coil. From there, there could be a chafed wire harness and hopefully not bad solenoid wires internal in the trans valve cover.
 

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When the AC compressor clutch coil goes, is it usually caused by compressor failure?


No the coil can just fail but it is most likely due to a failing clutch bearing which heats up enough from the bearing failure or the clutch plate rubbing. Have you had a scraping noise from that area.



I have had all three of my Taurus fail a pulley bearing and all of them had a coil that didn't fail but one looked damaged by heat.



Have you inspected the wires to the coil. It may be time to get an multimeter and ohm out the coil to see if it is shorted. I have a spare coil to ohm for a comparison if you need the info.
 

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No the coil can just fail but it is most likely due to a failing clutch bearing which heats up enough from the bearing failure or the clutch plate rubbing. Have you had a scraping noise from that area.



I have had all three of my Taurus fail a pulley bearing and all of them had a coil that didn't fail but one looked damaged by heat.



Have you inspected the wires to the coil. It may be time to get an multimeter and ohm out the coil to see if it is shorted. I have a spare coil to ohm for a comparison if you need the info.
It is 3.2 ohms. Which makes for just over 4 amps.


-chart-
 

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If the pulley wobbles badly enough it can cut into the coil over time. When I did the clutch in my old car I just left the coil because it was fine, but in your case you're probably better off unplugging the coil to disable the A/C system until you can replace the clutch or the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I’ll probably replace the compressor, since I have 100,250 miles on it. Never any noise or problems with the AC (Motorcraft with BG Fridi-Quiet Lubricant), until this happened. Best AC I’ve ever had.
 

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I’ll probably replace the compressor, since I have 100,250 miles on it. Never any noise or problems with the AC (Motorcraft with BG Fridi-Quiet Lubricant), until this happened. Best AC I’ve ever had.
I had two Bulls, '01 & '03 DOHC's, Both had clutch fail the same week, both OE, 130K and 140K. In a rush had a shop replace the whole thing, got local guy to do the clutch only on the other, one hour labor and ~$70 for parts. The OE compressor and replaced clutch still going 6 years later. The new compressor failed at one year. Guarantee was 30 days.


-chart-
 

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I’ll probably replace the compressor, since I have 100,250 miles on it. Never any noise or problems with the AC (Motorcraft with BG Fridi-Quiet Lubricant), until this happened. Best AC I’ve ever had.
I have had 6 used Bulls before the three in my herd at this time. Also 5 Lin Cont's. Only replaced one compressor, and that one was the early fail. Broken insides. Point is they do not fail all that often.


-chart-
 

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Agree with Chart on compressor. Had five Taurus and only one failed compressor at 200k miles. It was a R 12 one on a 1993. I did replace compressor in my 2006 but it didn't fail but it was only 30 bucks more that the clutch. I did my own recharge. If you do your own work then you can always keep your old compressor as a spare. That what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Good to know—I’ll only replace the clutch then. Would you only recommend I use a Motorcraft clutch assembly? What are the symptoms of a failing AC Clutch Relay? Anything to worry about there?
 

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ing to do with the health of your transmissiom.

I cleaned it where it attaches to the firewall but not where it attaches to the engine. I guess the transmission is toast. It has been a great car. Very sad.

There is absolutely no chance this has anything to do with the health of your transmission. It's an electrical issue, and probably a very simple one.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I presume the easiest way to change the AC compressor clutch is to remove the right wheel, fender liner, and drop the both sub-frames.
 

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I presume the easiest way to change the AC compressor clutch is to remove the right wheel, fender liner, and drop the both sub-frames.

I always remove the compressor and install on the bench but lowering the subframe will work and if you need additional room then you can loosen the four compressor mounting bolts and get so additional space.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Used a Fluke HVAC meter and verified with another Sperry meter. It doesn’t make sense to me now that the coil shorted and blew the fuse. Could the AC compressor coil relay, in the under hood fuse/relay box, or the CCRM have caused the short? The AC has never given any trouble before. AC compressor and clutch look new with no visible signs of trouble—clutch/pulley gap is .017 inch. Also, I ran the diagnostics on the EATC. The only codes were 051 and 053 concerning sun load.
 
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