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Those auto dim rear mirrors are a gift from the automotive gods. Nice install.

Ended up in the Southern Tier today, I-86 through to the Pennsylvania endpoint at I-90. I've noticed the 3+ MPG drop similarly in my own vehicles, including the former G6 bull when I still had it.

Oddly, the Focus has been somewhat immune to this--I took it on a longer trip a couple weeks ago. Still got the 38 MPG I was used to in the summer time. Focus has been getting Kwik Fill gas as opposed to my Explorer's "anywhere that's cheap" within reason logic, perhaps that has something to do with it, but I'm skeptical. I put top tier in it a week ago and noticed no difference but for a lighter wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
My daughter was home for her winter break this past week. While riding in her car, I noticed what felt like severely warped rotors and slight grinding sounds coming from the rear brakes. When she was home over the holidays everything was fine. A quick visual inspection showed lots of rust on the rotors. So, today I pulled the rotors and cleaned them with an abrasive pad on my angle grinder. No more shuddering or noise.

My daughter said the car sat for about 2 weeks after she went back to school in Jan. Also, she's not driving the car as much this semester. So, the extra sitting around in the winter caused a rust build up on the rotors. Even after an almost 400 mile drive home, they weren't clean. I tried a few hard stops. But, that didn't do anything.

While I was cleaning them, you could see the layer of very hard rust. You had to work to get it off. On some parts of the rotor it was thicker than other parts. I think a lot of the newer pads aren't as abrasive as they used to be. So, they don't clean the rotor as well.

I might give this a try on the Sable as the rear rotors seem prone to rust build up.
 

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My daughter was home for her winter break this past week. While riding in her car, I noticed what felt like severely warped rotors and slight grinding sounds coming from the rear brakes. When she was home over the holidays everything was fine. A quick visual inspection showed lots of rust on the rotors. So, today I pulled the rotors and cleaned them with an abrasive pad on my angle grinder. No more shuddering or noise.

My daughter said the car sat for about 2 weeks after she went back to school in Jan. Also, she's not driving the car as much this semester. So, the extra sitting around in the winter caused a rust build up on the rotors. Even after an almost 400 mile drive home, they weren't clean. I tried a few hard stops. But, that didn't do anything.

While I was cleaning them, you could see the layer of very hard rust. You had to work to get it off. On some parts of the rotor it was thicker than other parts. I think a lot of the newer pads aren't as abrasive as they used to be. So, they don't clean the rotor as well.

I might give this a try on the Sable as the rear rotors seem prone to rust build up.
Mine also, rears on the wagon are a pain as I drive low miles and it sits outside. I find the insides worse than the outside. And I remember seeing Carfax for used Lincolns when I was scouting for mine 5 years + ago. Several had rotors resurfaced by the dealer when nearly new. I think that was from sitting on dealer's lots and rusting on new surfaces. Same brake parts as the Bull wagons. I sand my wagon every spring with 80G paper on 5 1/4" orbital sander. It is used less than 5K per year. Mostly 2.2 mile average trips. The Lincoln stays inside the garage and hardly gets any rain or salt driving.

Oh yes, 8 degrees outside now, was 66 back on Wednesday when I washed my Lin. Spring came and went, winter is back.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I find the insides worse than the outside.
I've noticed the same thing. You'd think the inside would have less weather exposure, thus wouldn't be as bad. But, definitely not the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The Mazda 6 is home for the summer. So, time to catch up with some maintenance.

It's been 7K miles since the oil change at the end of November, so that's definitely due. Also, the oil drain plug is leaking. It was heli-coiled back in November and didn't have any leakage at the end of December. I'm worried that the heli-coil itself is leaking, not the drain plug. I think I'll pay someone to change the oil and take a look at it.

I also need to check the plugs, since I have no idea if they are original or not. Hopefully, with 140K miles on the clock, they aren't.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
While daughter #2 was driving me around last week in my wife's 2012 Camry, she commented how she didn't like driving the Camry anymore. She used to love it, when she predominantly drove the Freestar (can't blame her there!). Now that she's been driving her Mazda 6 for a few months, she's discovered what a better riding and handling car the Mazda is. She commented how numb and isolated the Camry felt. It gives me hope that some of the younger generation still enjoys driving!
 

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That's how I feel when I drive my wife's Sonata compared to my wagon. The Sonata drives so much nicer, but that should be expected being 12 years newer and 120k miles less. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That's how I feel when I drive my wife's Sonata compared to my wagon. The Sonata drives so much nicer, but that should be expected being 12 years newer and 120k miles less. ?
Age does take it's toll. I will say, my daughter's Mazda 6 at 7 years old and 140K miles is still very solid. Way more so than my Sable was at 13 years old and 113K miles when I got it. But, the Sable is 14 years older from a design and engineering standpoint (platform first appeared in 1995, while the Gen 2 Mazda 6 appeared in 2009). Plus, all the Ford cost cutting in the early 2000s probably didn't help.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Got the oil changed on Friday. The shop tried a different washer on the drain plug to try and stop the leak. It doesn't appear to be working. Time to start shopping for a new oil pan, I guess. An OEM one is about $150. I'll see what a used one costs, if I can find one.

I gave it a quick detail job last night and today. Hand wash, tar and bug removal, quick polish, wax, vacuum, clean and treat interior, clean and condition leather seats, and wash the windows. She's heading off to summer camp to work for the summer. Probably be filthy after a week of driving on the dirt roads. I wanted to get a coat of wax on it in case she parks under any trees. It'll make it easier to remove any tree sap.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Got the oil pan replaced today. The oil pan seals on 2 surfaces, the top that mates to the bottom of the engine block, and the front that mates to the front engine cover. The rear of the pan also bolts to the transmission. No gaskets involved, just sealant. So, not a simple drop and replace.

The official procedure removes the front engine cover and then the oil pan. About 4 hours of labor, a front crank seal and valve cover gasket. The mechanic used an "alternate" approach - separating the engine and transmission slightly to provide enough room to get enough sealant on all the appropriate surfaces. So, no need to remove the front cover. Only 3 hours of labor and no parts.

So, tomorrow it goes in to find out why the TPMS light is flashing. All the sensors have been replaced within the past year. I have a spare, but need to find out which sensor is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hopefully, the TPMS issue is fixed. Took it to a local tire place for a free TPMS check. It was the RR sensor. Replacement cost $135. Yeah, right. So, I put my spare sensor on the counter and asked how much to install it. $35 - mount, balance, new seals. So I ask "can't you just break the bead, reach in and swap the sensors?" Well, yes. But, they won't guarantee anything. That's all I would have done, so fine by me. So, out the door for $12. The Mazda TPMS system has an automatic relearn capability. So, no need for reprogramming.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Yesterday, my daughter commented that the brakes weren't working after starting the car. After running for a couple of minutes, everything is fine. Sounds like a vacuum leak either in the booster or maybe the check valve. Did it twice yesterday. No issues today. Of course, you can't buy just the check valve. Need the whole vacuum hose. $150 for the 4-cylinder (long hose). $40 for the V-6 (short hose). Her's is a 4-banger. Probably the same check valve on both. Most used boosters look like they come with a check valve. Need to figure it out before she heads back to school in a week.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
-7 degrees this morning. No power assist on the brakes for about 1 min after starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Got the hose and booster from Mazda this morning. A new booster from Mazda was $68. A reman one was $58 from RA. That's a no brainer. The check valve was definitely in the hose. Just need to remove the clamp to get the check valve out. The shop should have it ready later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well, Mazda out did themselves on this one. I thought the check valve was part of the connector at the end of the hose. But, nooooo. The check valve is embedded in the friggin' hose. So, I'll get to spend some time tomorrow trying to splice the section of new hose with the check valve into the old hose that's already on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Spliced the V-6 check valve into the I-4 vacuum hose and removed the original check valve. Had to cobble together a 1/2" to 3/8" barbed coupler. It was between the engine and check valve. So, no worries about a vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Did a 4 wheel brake job on the M6. Raybestos rust resistant rotors and Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads. Rear pads gone on one side (@152k miles). Fronts at 50%, but rotors had a lot of rust. Replaced the rear calipers since the parking brake mechanism wouldn't fully release. Same setup as my Sable. Flushed the brake fluid as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
4 new Continental True Contacts this spring. New rear shocks, transmission fluid change, and a new LF axle (to replace a torn inner CV boot) this summer. Other than that, still cruising along at almost 166k miles.
 
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