humm you could try makeing your own set of headers...
i am woundering why ford did the nice little crunch to the front pipe as well.
next month i am probly going to have a while new exhaust put on from the manifolds back. i wish their are headers for our cars. i nice set of long tubes.
there is one thing that can be done you remove the y and from the top you open them up as a sardine can and then you empty them and you solder them back together so it doesn't show on visual inspection lolllllll
but if you have to pass a real inspection then high flow cat it the only way sorry
and for the guy who said it cost too much gaz lolllllll because you have to release the gas pedal i know it is so much fun with those car :banana:
Instead of replacing the cats on my 3.8 (extremely clogged) I just gutted them with a long drill bit. I cut the cats off the pipe, gutted them, and rewelded. You would never know anything was wrong. The sound is a bit louder but I think it may have slight exhaust leak. But since I don't have the car anymore what do I care?
I was wondering, they make this electronic cut-away to bypass mufflers. I was wondering,... could we possibly use this on out Taurus'/Sables? The cut-away has an electronic switch to operate a plate to have the exhaust leave another route. Let me know guys
maybe but it would be really complicated
this is only to open the air intake on the exaust pipe to make it louder and more grrrrrrrrr on the noise ratio and that is it
the cut aways are for high rpm race motors so that you can do away with most (if not all) back pressure. Like my mustang I would use them if I was to want to drive the car on the street , But by doing away with ALL back pressure you would lose most of your low rpm torque. I run a 4000 Stall on the mustang and am not concerned with low rpm torque. With a streetable V6 or V8 you need some B/P or atleast some sort of cross over pipe with some what of a muffler.
You COULD have a set up that might go something like Elc. controled cutaways that reroute your exhust around the cats and then back in to the pipes before going through something like a set of 30 seires flows . Then you could flip a switch too close the cutaeays so it would only be able to run through the cats at inspection time.
That way you could keep your tags and still enjoy the slight hp gain of a "free'er" flowing exhust?
I really don't have to worry about an inspection here in AL.
BUT from what I seen so far on this site some of you guys are more than able to figuer it out!
MY idea of a good sound in a car is my 294 306 lift 554 558 lift 110 lobe Comp cam coming out of the 1 3/4 equal leanth long tube headers with 3" turn downs !!
Fired it up Saturday night after an all day marathon to get it back together.....
Its loud Keep in mind its no cats, no resonator -2.5" straight pipe ALL the way back to the dual flowmaster 40s and moving a LOT of air even at idle. Its not ricey at all, its very menacing but...just a little too loud for my tastes.
I quickly reattached a ~29" 2.5"ID glasspack in the resonator section and it made a night and day difference in the sound, once I get some more welding wire i'll get things in there a little more "professional" looking
One thing I wonder about though, the exhaust pulses are pretty damn strong, I can stand a good 5 feet behind the car and still feel the exhaust pulsating against my hand, it was somewhat like that last year too but this time its much more pronounced. Its been so long since the car was stock that I cant remember if that was "normal" <_< . Anyone got any insight?
Originally posted by DMX@Aug 16 2004, 07:15 AM Fired it up Saturday night after an all day marathon to get it back together.....
Its loud Keep in mind its no cats, no resonator -2.5" straight pipe ALL the way back to the dual flowmaster 40s and moving a LOT of air even at idle. Its not ricey at all, its very menacing but...just a little too loud for my tastes.
I quickly reattached a ~29" 2.5"ID glasspack in the resonator section and it made a night and day difference in the sound, once I get some more welding wire i'll get things in there a little more "professional" looking
One thing I wonder about though, the exhaust pulses are pretty damn strong, I can stand a good 5 feet behind the car and still feel the exhaust pulsating against my hand, it was somewhat like that last year too but this time its much more pronounced. Its been so long since the car was stock that I cant remember if that was "normal" <_< . Anyone got any insight?
What kind of welding are you doing? If it's gas (Oxy-acetelene), you can just use the gold colored metal hangers for welding rods. It's just crap metal that's fine for welding exhaust systems.
Originally posted by godspunk32+Aug 16 2004, 07:33 AM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (godspunk32 @ Aug 16 2004, 07:33 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-DMX@Aug 16 2004, 07:15 AM Fired it up Saturday night after an all day marathon to get it back together.....
Its loud Keep in mind its no cats, no resonator -2.5" straight pipe ALL the way back to the dual flowmaster 40s and moving a LOT of air even at idle. Its not ricey at all, its very menacing but...just a little too loud for my tastes.
I quickly reattached a ~29" 2.5"ID glasspack in the resonator section and it made a night and day difference in the sound, once I get some more welding wire i'll get things in there a little more "professional" looking
One thing I wonder about though, the exhaust pulses are pretty damn strong, I can stand a good 5 feet behind the car and still feel the exhaust pulsating against my hand, it was somewhat like that last year too but this time its much more pronounced. Its been so long since the car was stock that I cant remember if that was "normal" <_< . Anyone got any insight?
What kind of welding are you doing? If it's gas (Oxy-acetelene), you can just use the gold colored metal hangers for welding rods. It's just crap metal that's fine for welding exhaust systems.
JR [/b][/quote]
Nothing special, just some flux core on a cheap welder from Harbor Freight. By "professional" i meant with more welds and less clamps
Oh ok. Yeah...if you're mig welding, then you need decent wire that doesn't have any impurities, otherwise you get gas buildups inside the weld, which can weaken it. If you're gas welding with oxygen and acetylene, you can just use hangers because with that technique it doesn't really matter about the deposits and such.
X, my SC does the same thing, it has to do with the higher compression and your new cam having more intake lift and less overlap than your old cam..
Your taurus and my SC are running practically the same compression since we cut down the block AND heads on my SC.. I'm at about 8.9:1 and you are most likely around 9.1:1 if you decked the head at all..
My stock taurus has a bit of pulsation, but nothing like the SC.
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