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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 89 taurus with the 3.0, and I am In the middle of finishing my oil pan gasket job. I had to remove the cat/exhaust piece to get to some of the oil pan bolts. Both of the bolts on the rear and front exhaust manifolds broke that attatch the cat/exhaust piece. I was wondering if I can heat the bolts and get them out of there and get new ones or if they are fixed in there and I need to get new manifolds.
 

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Here a pic of mine, it looks like they are threaded at the top (studs). Might try turning that nut if its broken below that point. PB plaster is going to be your freind:

 

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Yeah here's a view from the top, the threads go all the way through. If you haven't already spray them good with PB plaster and let soak over night, then spray more.

 

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They're threaded.

That said, you have to heat the manifold where the bolts thread in with nothing less than an oxy-acetelyne torch to the point where it's glowing bright orange before you attempt to remove that stud. Anything else, PB Blaster included, is a waste of time.
 

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RacerX --
MAPP torch won't work?
 

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QUOTE (OldWagon @ Apr 28 2009, 05:29 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721420
RacerX --
MAPP torch won't work?[/b]
might help if they aren't too frozen, but oxy-acetylene really works. Apply heat around the bolt hole, but not directly to the stud.

not sure about the '89, but the V8 SHO and Duratec use the same stud as in mt_goat's pics. I purchased replacements from the autoparts store... IIRC about $10 a pair
 

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When I did the oil pan on my '92 wagon I broke some of those bolts, and we tried to heat the manifolds to remove the busted stud. That will usually work but of course it didnt this time. I ended up taking off the manifolds and drilling out the old studs, talk about a P.I.T.A....... I had th oil pan done in a few hours, it took longer to fix the studs. And I agree, MAP gas or any other like that just doesnt get hot enough, oxy-acetylene is the only way to get it hot enough in that tight space.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My manifolds do not have those nuts on the bolts that broke. If I heat them I would have to use vice grips to grab them and hope it doesnt strip down worse. But if I drill them and accidently kill the threads can I use a bolt going through with a nut on the other side. Different design but might work if it doesnt wiggle to much. Also ebay has them for $20 a piece with shipping so I might save some trouble and get them new. But youre saying propane wont work to heat the bolt up?
 

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Yeah you could drill them out and replace with bolts but it would then be even more of a PITA to R&R the exhaust pipes. You would need someone in the engine bay holding the bolt and someone under the car turning the nut. Unless you welded tabs on the bolt head or something like that. You might try a muffler shop for help too. You'd probably want to tow it there though, you do have AAA right? AAA is a must for any 10+ year old Taurus owner.
 

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QUOTE (azztor @ Apr 29 2009, 10:22 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721615
...If I heat them I would have to use vice grips to grab them and hope it doesnt strip down worse.[/b]
"It" referring to the bolt? You won't be using that again.

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....But youre saying propane wont work to heat the bolt up?[/b]
The object is not to heat the bolt, though that will happen by contact. The objective is to heat the manifold to the point where it expands and where ferrous and ferric oxide will crumble... and/or the cast iron becomes slightly malleable. Because the manifold represents a large heat sink, you need a great deal of heat applied to the manifold, and the relatively tiny, cool propane flame won't do that.

The ideal would be to heat the manifold dramatically and simultaneously cool the bolt dramatically, to make it contract, but that's a tall order.

I've had some success with propane on the part that should expand, followed by a quick application of ordinary ice on the part that should contract, but far from 100%. Probably would have been better with dry ice. Water ice or dry ice, you want good insulating gloves if you want to try this, or tongs... you don't want to touch the hot metal with flesh, even for a split second.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So it looks like these bolts will not move. I found the front manifold on ebay new for $22 shipped. The rear I cant find for less than $70. I am wondering if anyone knows where a cheap rear manifold can be bought or does another year manifold fit in thats cheaper than the older stock ones made for this car?
 

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Tried all that to no avail. The fix is a new manifold and studs. I got the Dorman manifold from Pep Boys for $78 but the studs that came with it were too small to fit the manifold. New studs at Autozone (part #03129) for $7.00 and problem solved. New studs are a VERY tight fit even with Nevr-Seize on the threads. No wonder the stud broke during removal attempts. PB Blaster is wonderful stuff but useless in this project. Anyone contemplating trying to change the oil pan gasket would be wise to take it to the dealer, bend over and get it over with. Hardest dam job I ever did on a Ford. No clearance for tools or hands.
 
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