[Andrei]

Hi all,

I got a repeated fuel cap warning on the dash, then a check engine light with the evap emissions code. I am in a remote area for a couple of weeks, so it took me 2 days to get a new fuel cap.
When I went under the car to check the hoses for good measure, I saw that one of the 2 hoses that goes to the canister is flaky and has small surface cracks. I am going to have to wait for 1-2 days to see if the light comes back after replacing the fuel cap, but I want to order and have that hose at hand in case it's faulty.
I went to O'reilleys today but they only had a 3/8 emissions hose that looked a lot smaller than what I have on the car. See attached pic.
Does anyone know the size of those hoses?
Thanks!

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[helifino]

These are sold by the inside diameter of the hose, not the outside. I'm guessing the factory hose is sleeved for extra abrasion resistance. Since you have a sample chunk, pop one of the ends off and make sure the sample fits snugly on the hose barb.

 

[Andrei]

That's what I was thinking, but I was afraid I would ruin the hose by popping it off and I don't have a second car with me to go buy the correct hose. That's why I was hoping someone knows the correct ID of the hose

 

[ice445]

On my 2000 it was 3/8, I replaced the same line. Kinda sucks to do, you'll want to disconnect the line from the purge valve unit by squeezing the green tabs and pulling. Trying to get the hose off the unit when it's dry rotted is a complete waste of time and will just result in you breaking the unit.

 

[Andrei]

I read 3/8 before, but I don't think I need to get all the way to the purge valve, which is under the hood if I am not mistaking.
It's just the canister hose, like in this pic (taken from a youtube video):

 

[helifino]

That's what I was thinking, but I was afraid I would ruin the hose by popping it off and I don't have a second car with me to go buy the correct hose.

It's not a critical component, it not being there won't stop it from running/driving. At most you'll get a dash light..

 

[Andrei]

It's not a critical component, it not being there won't stop it from running/driving. At most you'll get a dash light..

Yes, that is the good news
But my OCD is rampant when it comes to the car
Anyway, for future visitors of this thread, the hose size is 5/8 ID. I replaced it today because the engine light with P0455 came back. Don't know if I fixed it, I'll have to drive a couple of days to see if the light comes back.
Thanks for the input, and I'll keep you updated!

 

[ice445]

I read 3/8 before, but I don't think I need to get all the way to the purge valve, which is under the hood if I am not mistaking.
It's just the canister hose, like in this pic (taken from a youtube video):
View attachment 222552

Oh I see, I thought you were talking about the section under the hood.

 

[Andrei]

Hopefully It's not the one that goes to the purge valve. I'll see if the canister hose fixed it

 

[Andrei]

(Probably) final update for future visitors: I drove 200 miles since I replaced the hose and the light never came back. I'll call it fixed.

 

[Lgbpop]

That's what I was thinking, but I was afraid I would ruin the hose by popping it off and I don't have a second car with me to go buy the correct hose. That's why I was hoping someone knows the correct ID of the hose

Down here in sunny south Florida plastic connectors and rubber hoses disintegrate after five years or so. I went through that BS about twenty years ago or so when I had to replace a tee fitting coming off of the charcoal cannister to the return line (under the radiator, what a brilliant location!) going back to the fuel tank. Up north, y'all probably can get eight to ten years out of the same fitting. I learned a neat trick, replacing the hose from the valve cover on my Vulcan back to the intake hose assembly...I was in condo property association management and maintenance, and found that a lot of the semi-rigid PVC irrigation hoses and fittings worked perfectly under the hood and elsewhere, and last a LOT longer. I was able to McGyver a tee and some new hose to replace the bad components which kept tossing me codes on my antediluvian code reader. Ever since then, any time I can get irrigation hoses and fittings to work under the wagon for air usages, I use them instead. They're way less expensive and last years longer. Hope this helps...otherwise, sorry to butt in ~

 

[Andrei]

Well, I celebrated too early... I have no clue why the car didn't set a code for 3 days and 270 miles, but I got it again today. Well, s...t.
I inspected the whole line from the back to the purge valve and it looks ok. The green hose connector on the purge valve has a broken tab but it doesn't come off.
At this point, I think it's either the after market fuel cap (I have a Motorcraft in the mail tomorrow), the purge valve or the canister solenoid. But they're fairly expensive parts and I don't want to just throw parts at it. Damn code...
I also checked the purge valve with the engine on. No vacuum on either port, so I am assuming it's not faulty, as in stuck open

 

[helifino]

I have no clue why the car didn't set a code for 3 days and 270 miles, but I got it again today.

Fords only run the evap monitor post-trip and only when certain conditions are met. If you have access to a smoke generator, it makes running down leaks so much simpler. I suggest watching all the "evap" videos by South Main Auto on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=south+main+auto+repair+evap

 

[Andrei]

Appreciate it. Will go study.

 

[kekaye56]

Appreciate it. Will go study.

There are also lots of you tube videos on making your own smoke machine, or if you are close to SE Texas, i will loan you mine.

 

[Andrei]

There are also lots of you tube videos on making your own smoke machine, or if you are close to SE Texas, i will loan you mine.

Much appreciated. I am in GA now, and usually in FL. If it comes down to that, I already looked up some DYI smoke machines