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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this ticking noise coming from what sounds like the top of the engine. the ticking goes faster when i accelerate but stops for a second when it changes gears. The car is a 1996 Ford Taurus with the Duratec engine. I took it to a mechanic and he says that the engine needs to be replaced and the engine has 130,XXX miles on it. I researched the situation and it could be camshafts, fuel injectors, or it something could have broken off and could be hitting something. I need some advice because i want to make sure what the problem is and not spend a whole lot of money to replace the engine. Is this normal and will it hurt the engine if i dont get it fixed. the mechanic said that my taurus wont pass smog if i dont get it fixed, is this true? Thank you for looking and i greatly appreciate any suggestions.

Here is a video link just to see what it sounds like

 

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Nice clean engine. I don't hear anything that sounds fatal, so I'm not getting the replace engine scenario, from the so called mechanic!!!!

Was the noise supposed to be audible in the video???

Is the noise more noticeable when it's in gear & the engine has a load on it, like when pulling a grade, or when passing & you have to accelerate???? If so, I'm thinking maybe your hearing spark knock/ping, from a lean air/fuel mixture, or maybe an unmetered air leak from a dryrotted, leaking PCV valve hose, or stuck open PCV valve, or other loose or bad vacuum line.

The rubber PCV valve elbow hose on the Duratech engine is a common dryrot problem part, your vintage is about right, so it probably belongs on your suspect list for inspection. With the mileage you have, it's also time for a PCV valve replacement while your there.

Are you using the specified service grade & viscosity oil & filter & did this noise come about suddenly after some event, like an oil & filter change, repair, service, trip, ect????
 

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Well, i hear two noises. One sounds like maybe an exhaust leak, and the other
a higher pitched tapping sound.

You need to localize where the higher pitch tapping sound is coming from.
Harbor freight sells mechanics stethoscopes cheap. You can use one to localize where
the noise is the loudest. That may tell you a lot about what and where.

Are you sure your serp belt idlers and tensioners are not making the noise?

a code scan would also help at this point.

My guess is if you have a valve or cam issue of some sort, it would show up as a misfire
code in the OBD2 code scan

I would also do a compression check on all cylinders for balance
 

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There is a sound that's almost like a pft pft pft pft pft, that I would say is something to do with an exhust leak, or a very loud injector.
 

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I agree that the engine doesn't need replacing. Make another video holding the camera closer and moving slower around the engine compartment. Once you got closer right in front and I thought it sounded clearer. Almost sounded like something hitting the fan blades or something in the front valve train. May also be chain tensioner like was previously mentioned. Hard to tell from here. I also agree, find another mechanic. A good honest mechanic should be able to tell pretty quickly. Let us know what you find out.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the ticking noise still happens when i shift into reverse and becomes loud (a little bit) and faster when i accelerate but when i let go of the gas pedal the ticking noise suddenly lowers in volume and speed. the check engine light not on and i dont have a code checker. i used to take it to the oil changers(not jiffy lube or ezlube), but i just started chaning my own oil(under supervision by my dad, he knows how to do it), but the ticking noise was present before. The engine performs normally but the transmission rarely hesitates to switch to second gear but it idles around 500-1000 RPM. I hope this helps and thanks agian for taking the time to helping me.
 

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Normally, autozone will do a free code scan. But seeing your from CA, i think you
have laws there prohibiting that.

You might try to find a member close to you that may have a code scanner.
You can always just go buy one from harbor freight or such also.

I know around here , many quick lube or brake places will give you a free scan to
try to sell you services. You might see if any in your area will do this.
Just don't buy off on the Landry list they say you need and write down the codes.

One other possibility, you may have a bolt coming out of your torque convertor.
Its important you localize where the noise is the loudest.
 

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Normally, autozone will do a free code scan. But seeing your from CA, i think you
have laws there prohibiting that.

You might try to find a member close to you that may have a code scanner.
You can always just go buy one from harbor freight or such also.

I know around here , many quick lube or brake places will give you a free scan to
try to sell you services. You might see if any in your area will do this.
Just don't buy off on the Landry list they say you need and write down the codes.

One other possibility, you may have a bolt coming out of your torque convertor.
Its important you localize where the noise is the loudest.
CA resident here. Pepboys will pull your codes for free. I'm assuming it's the same with the other auto parts stores as well.
 
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