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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 sable ls, and it has the OHV 3.0 engine. It is at 181,546 miles, and I have a problem that started just about 70 miles ago. I noticed that the engine has been taking longer to kick over. It used to start after about tow rotations, now it is at about 6 or 7 rotations. It seems to get longer after it has warmed up, and I have done several things to see if it would change which are,
The CPS Camshaft position sensor/synchronizer (was changed before the problem cause it was squeeling),
The fuel filter,
The plugs and wires,
Checked the PCV Valve, and it has plenty of suction,
Air filter,
Transmission filter and fluid around 162,000 or so,
I do the oil every 2000 or so miles, because I always end up at the 3 month mark before the mileage so I do it anyway to be safe. I use the valvoline max life full synthetic for engines with over 75,000. I have since I got the car which was when it was at 154,000 miles. Not sure if this is pertinent or not, but just threw this in there for your knowledge. Another couple of things. The plugs and wires were original. They were in there until 181,000 miles, and when I took them out the plugs were all gapped at about .90 instead of .44 because of the amount of use they had. They were very clean though all of them. Very minimal carbon on them, and no oil deposits, or pitting. The diodes were worn down a bit though. The car was not skipping, or losing power or anything, I just changed them because of the taking longer to start problem which I thought changing them would fix that but it did not. The fuel filter I am suspecting is the same. I took it off, and turned it around to drain the fuel out of the filter, and the residual fuel came out like as black as dirty oil. It seemed alright coming out the other way though, so I am hoping it did not cause any damage to the engine. I am hoping some of you intelligent tarus/sable owners out there may have another idea of what could cause this. I truly appreciate any help you can give.
 

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Sounds like maybe your fuel pump is getting tired. Leave the key forward in the on position for a few seconds before you turn it to the start pos. and see if makes any difference if so i would think its prob the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry I should have mentioned I actually have been doing this for one year now, I always wait until I hear the pump stop before I go to the start position. I did try it anyway a few times without waiting to see if it made a difference and of coarse it did not. Thanks for the suggestion tough. Man I hope it is not that, difficult to change right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any other suggestions anyone?
 

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You could get a fuel pressure gauge and keep it connected. Maybe that would help you visually see what's going on. It threads onto the shroeder valve (tire valve) at the end of the fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You could get a fuel pressure gauge and keep it connected. Maybe that would help you visually see what's going on. It threads onto the shroeder valve (tire valve) at the end of the fuel rail.
This is what I was thinking as well. Do you know where to buy one of these guages, and what the pressure is suppose to be? I have a wife, and kids, and I am getting worried everytime they go out somewhere that they are going to get stranded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does anyone know off hand if the egr valve could make this happen? I changed the pcv valve and it quieted down the engine, and the car drives so much like a brand new car once it is started. It does not in any way run like a car on it's last legs or anything. I do know the fact that the previous owner was extremely ignorant to it's upkeep. Everything on that car is original. When he sold it to me right away I had four broken coil springs, two bad sway bar links, bad brakes, and of caorse all the other stuff I changed recently which were mentioned above. Just hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
 

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This is what I was thinking as well. Do you know where to buy one of these guages, and what the pressure is suppose to be? I have a wife, and kids, and I am getting worried everytime they go out somewhere that they are going to get stranded.
Harbor Freight tools has them the cheapest I've seen them (especially on sale). But any parts store should also sell them. You can also use a tire pressure gauge (you can buy those at the gas station-if you didn't already know this:lol2:). Fuel pressure should be from 30-40 psi (correct me if I'm wrong anyone).
 

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If the coolant temp sensor does not report an accurate temperature, the engine will have a hard time starting. Consider that on your suspect list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If the coolant temp sensor does not report an accurate temperature, the engine will have a hard time starting. Consider that on your suspect list.
Thats the second time I have seen this as a suspect. Could you direct me how to find it and if there is a way, how to test it?
 

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Any other suggestions anyone?
I vote for the fuel pump. I would suspect the fuel pressure regulator, also, but that tends to cause slow starting after sitting for a certain period of time.

By the way: Full synthetic oil will last well over 5,000 miles with no harm to your engine. You could just change the filter every 2,000 and the oil @ 8,000 and you would be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I vote for the fuel pump. I would suspect the fuel pressure regulator, also, but that tends to cause slow starting after sitting for a certain period of time.

By the way: Full synthetic oil will last well over 5,000 miles with no harm to your engine. You could just change the filter every 2,000 and the oil @ 8,000 and you would be fine.
You know, I would agree with the fuel pump, the only reason I am having a hard time accepting that is because I have no symptoms other than the slow starts. There is no hesitation going up hills, even with the a/c on... other than the normal quick hesitation when the pump is kicking on. There is no jolting when I am going at highway speeds, nothing at all out of the norm. I do know that the fuel pump is a definate posibility, and I am not dismissing it, I am just hoping it is something else, so I was hoping to get some ideas of what other things could cause slow startups.
BTW... Sorry for taking so long to reply, I look at this forum everyday looking for replies, but for some reason I never noticed there was a second page until just now. Sorry about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Slow to turn over? Battery or Starter been checked yet?
Actually, now that you have said this, I am not sure slow to turn over was the correct term. It is more slow to catch. I cannot say wiht any certainty if it is cranking over correctly or not. I am going to try a new battery, because the battery has been in the car for a while. I have had the car since 2006 with the same battery, and the previous owner did not do any maintenance other than oil changes, so who knows how old the battery is. Does anyone know what brand of battery comes with these cars from factory? I can't remember off hand what is in it, but I would like to know if it is original. Most of the miles were from highway, and were added pretty quickly to the car because the previous owner(s) put 154,074 miles on it in only 5 years. That is what the milage was when I got the car.
 

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Actually, now that you have said this, I am not sure slow to turn over was the correct term. It is more slow to catch. I cannot say wiht any certainty if it is cranking over correctly or not. I am going to try a new battery, because the battery has been in the car for a while. I have had the car since 2006 with the same battery, and the previous owner did not do any maintenance other than oil changes, so who knows how old the battery is. Does anyone know what brand of battery comes with these cars from factory? I can't remember off hand what is in it, but I would like to know if it is original. Most of the miles were from highway, and were added pretty quickly to the car because the previous owner(s) put 154,074 miles on it in only 5 years. That is what the milage was when I got the car.
Probably a Motorcraft WC95634 battery. I am sure he replaced it in 5 years

 

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hi,

if you have another car try to swap the battery (no need to drive with it swapped).

see if the problem stays with the car or moves to the other car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well... I think I have it figured out. I went to the advanced auto today, and had them test the battery and it was at 173 cold cranking amps, and was supposed to be at 600 cca. So I bought a battery and changed it and it seems to be starting correctly again. I could not beleive that when I took the battery cover off, it was a motorcraft battery. I think it was the original. I also heard some clunking in the rear, and found that my stabilizer links aare both broken off, so I bought thos as well, and will tackle those this weekend. I cannot beleive that the previous owner left everything original. Well.... I guess you can't win them all. I found a 1999 Ford Taurus for sale that I wanted to share with the community becaue I think it is a steal. Click Here to check it out. I called and talked ot the guy to find out why it is so cheap and he stated it is because he has a truck now, and he does not need a car, and that he was selling the car to a friend of his sons for $350.00, which fell through so he is now selling it for $500.00 to whoever wants it. The a/c pump is making noise, and that is all that he says is wrong with it. I was going to get it myself but I cannot afford to have 2 vehicles right now. Anyway, hopefully one of you good people can benefit from it. Thanks to all who posted and helped with this problem and god bless! ;)
 
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