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As stated in my other thread.. I have to rebuild my Ford Taurus 03 OHV 3.0 engine. I've been searching for days now, trying to come across anything that involves the piston ring gap specs and ring clock pattern. If anybody has this info or knows where to get it. I believe that this info would be a great thing for this site for future builders just like me. Thanks guys!
 

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As stated in my other thread.. I have to rebuild my Ford Taurus 03 OHV 3.0 engine. I've been searching for days now, trying to come across anything that involves the piston ring gap specs and ring clock pattern. If anybody has this info or knows where to get it. I believe that this info would be a great thing for this site for future builders just like me. Thanks guys!
Do not have that info, others will but"
Ring gap is critical. Had friend call me and tell me his ring gap was excessive on new rings by the book. OK how much? Yep likely engine had been oversized at the factory. He borrowed a inside mike, and it was +.020". Chrysler 318. Had he not followed the rules, he would have been a heap of hurt.

Know another case, dealer put rings and bearings in a Ford 260. Shaft was .002 under from the factory, old bearings had the stamp. Shaft failed in short order. Pays to check, never underestimate what they can do at the factory. Dodge shop guy told me they had new car 440, had +.040 cylinders with standard pistons. Ran really bad. That one clearly obvious.

Best of luck.

-chart-
 

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The chart on Autozone.com shows end gap of 0.010 to 0.020" (large range) and 0.0012 to 0.0031" side clearance on upper and 2nd piston rings. (This is a large range to.)
 

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They'll do what they have to, just to get a passable product out the door. It's why I was advised by a friend who works at the Lima plant to never just buy parts and rebuild, always measure and then get the right parts and rebuild. Sadly that mode of thinking is an industry standard.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I can upload a PDF this evening of the factory engine overhaul manual if no one can find the information you need before then.
That would be sooo awesome! I've still been searching all of these days and can't find anything on this at all.. Google and everything. My next guess is to go to an auto parts store and ask.

Also, I've been searching for piston bolt cap torque specs, can't find a thing.. Can't find ring pattern either. Can I use the, 45 degrees between ring gaps? Can't find the ring patter either.. i.e.

top = ring with dot facing up.
Middle = black ring with silver side?
Bottom = oil (wavy silver ring) then two smaller black with silver side, rings on the outside of the oil wavy ring??

Does that sound right?

I've got my piston rings today in the mail!! Getting closer to beginning this rebuild! The paper that came with says... "Check end gap. .004" per 1" of bore diameter is the minimum."

So my bore size is.. 3.504"
1" = .004"
2" = .008"
3" = .0012"
3.504" = .00125 But I can get away with .0013" Correct?

Is this correct??? I dont know if the maths right.


One last thing.. I'm going to copy and paste what the piston ring paper says.. I don't really understand #3 direction under "Three-Piece Oil Ring Installation."

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Compression Ring Installation

1) Most compression rings are directional, meaning they have a top and bottom .

2) Most top rings and second rings are different and cannot be interchanged.

3) Most compression rings have a pip mark, a dot or the name: "TOP" on one side designating that side faces up.

4) New cylinder bores must be conditioned properly used bores deglazed. In al cases the final cleaning should be scrubbing with hot soapy water and a brush. Rinse with clean water, dry and wipe with oil and a lint free rag until the rag is clean after the final wiping.

5) Check ring gap. .004" per 1" of bore diameter is the minimum.

6) Compression rings should not be "spiraled" into the groove but carefully installed with a ring installation tool.

~~~

Three-Piece Oil Ring Installation:

1) Three-piece oil rings are not directional and can be installed either direction.

2) The ends of the expander must butt together in a solid part of the ring groove and not overlap.

3) Oil rail gaps should be about 1" either side of expander gap and the rails can be spiraled on.

4) If the completed assembly rotates freely in the ring groove it is correct. If not, start over!

-------------------------------------

Is it implying that wavy ring gap must be "1 away from the two outter ring gap??

Compression ring #2 (black ring with silver side) does not have a mark anywhere to be found.. Does this mean that it does not matter which way it faces??

Compression ring #1 (all black ring with dot marking) has a white marking on the side of it, right next the ring gap, as well. Never heard anything about this type of marking?..

Edit: I had some one give me the advice of replacing all of the piston heads as well.. Is this honestly necessary or can I can by with out it? I know it depends on wear and all of that but just wanted to get another opinion..


Thank you guys for all of this info!!!!! Truly is awesome!!! I will be making a video and lots of pics with this project for all of you as well!!
 

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The rod cap torque spec is listed as 35 Nm in the file madscientist posted.

Yes, I think the 1" means keeps the gaps at least 1" apart. The rails are what go on top and bottom of the wavy expander. This picture should illustrate:

 

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Discussion Starter #10
You guys rock!!!!!! That basically just answered all of my questions! Thank you so much madscientist!!

I will admit though. I'm a newb at this engine stuff but I understand the rebuild stuff for the most part. I would love to purchase some new piston heads for this engine, some decent ones atleast. I have no idea what to get though.. any comments/suggestions??

Also, just want to be sure. Is this ring pattern universal? Top ring = compression middle = compression. bottom = oil set up ring? Or can this pattern be switched at all?? I'm not going to do it, just really don't want to mix it up on accident.



I couldn't thank you guys enough!!! I wish I could return the favor.. :/
 

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I'm attaching the factory assembly manual just so you have it. It's not particularly specific, but it may be helpful. I'm also attaching the manual for the piston/rod assembly.

I will admit though. I'm a newb at this engine stuff but I understand the rebuild stuff for the most part. I would love to purchase some new piston heads for this engine, some decent ones atleast. I have no idea what to get though.. any comments/suggestions??
I'm not sure what you're talking about when you say piston heads. Are your referring to the pistons or the cylinder heads? Either way, there's not really anything out there that would be an "upgrade". As for the pistons, if the cylinders are out of spec, the cylinders should be bored and new over-sized pistons should be installed. Even if the cylinders are in spec, they should be honed. The new rings won't seat properly if they aren't. As for the heads, the valves, valve seats and valve guides should be thoroughly measured and inspected. The mating surface should also be checked for flatness and the entire head should be checked for cracks. If anything is out of spec they should be rebuilt or replaced with remanufactured heads.

Also, just want to be sure. Is this ring pattern universal? Top ring = compression middle = compression. bottom = oil set up ring? Or can this pattern be switched at all?? I'm not going to do it, just really don't want to mix it up on accident.
:/
The grove in the piston for the oil control rings is much wider than the grooves for the compression rings. The rings are also easy to differentiate. The oil control rings are thinner than the compression rings. The spacer that goes between the oil control rings is obviously pretty easy to differentiate.


As for your previous questions about the rod bolt torque specs, the factory manual only states that they should be torqued to 26 ft.lb. in pairs. In my experience, the best course of action is to get there in two or three steps. For example, I'd starting by torquing both bolts to 15 ft.lb. Then torque them to 20 ft.lb. and finally torque them to 26 ft.lb.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know don't know where your getting all of this but it's completely awesome! lol

But yea, sorry about that, should of specified better. At least in that, I know that I got this all perfectly straight to do this job. Every thing you've told me about, I've re-read over and over. Thats a good sign! Thanks so much for all the info man, I truly appreciate it!!

I was asking about the piston head (ontop of connecting rod) though, not the actual engine head. I really want to order some hyper-eutectics.. It sucks though because I don't know if I'll need to bore the holes until I get this apart.. They'll probably just need a good honeing/deglazing which I will do. Just wonder if I should order the standard size pistons for my engine or not.. idk.. or even if I could just reuse the pistons already in the engine?? Could I get away with that? (obviously if their not too worn..)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
UPDATE!

HELP! I found these in the oil pan!!! I don't know what they are or where they came from!! Please help!

Edit: Their about 1/4 in diameter it looks like..

Also, one dot on each oil pump gear. I assume they line up next to each other. Correct??
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Piston ring job...

Done!

Took me 3 days.

Started right up!

I took it around the block twice just now to get it up to operating temp and noticed on the second time.. It started shifting gears a little roughly. Normal???

I'm taking it to work tomorrow so well see what happens.

Tons of pics tomorrow guys! Stay tuned!
 

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powertripp said:
It started shifting gears a little roughly. Normal???
Congrats! Just a guess, but it may need to go through the complete drive cycles after disconnecting to 'relearn'.
 
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