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Engine shaking past 4000 RPM when not driving.

12K views 50 replies 17 participants last post by  sousa632 
#1 ·
This problem does not come up when driving, however when parked and on neutral or speed when i spin my RPM up, past 4000 engine starts shaking like crazy feels like earthquake in the car.

Transmission is not good i know that for fact, but would it still be problem on neutral?

P.S. prior to 4000 it does not give any shaking at all. And when driving i sometimes go to 6000 RPM without problem..
 
#2 ·
The engine is limited to 4000 RPM in Neutral and Park. It's a safety feature, to keep you from revving it to 7000 RPM and then engaging the transmission.
 
#4 ·
It's also there to prevent the motor from over revving out of gear and causing catastrophic failure. My brother had a '71 F100... Coming off the highway went from fourth to first... Destroyed his 390
 
#8 ·
The better question is why in the hell do you feel the need to rev the piss out of the car in neutral/park? There are safety equipment in place to stop people from doing stupid things........ this being one of them.
 
#12 · (Edited)
To see if engine works fine on high RPM's or shaking because mounts are loose or something else going on is not enough of a reason?
I used manual transmissions in the past and there's no limit you can spin as much as you want and put first because you use clutch.


P.S. is factory safety build in the way engine will start shaking and choking rather than just stop growing rpm?

This is last car with automatic i ever buy for myself
 
#9 ·
^^^^^ +1

I see the import kids with their fart can mufflers doing this all the time to impress their idiot friends. I just laugh, smile, and think "what a moron".
 
#20 ·
^^^^^ +1

I see the import kids with their fart can mufflers doing this all the time to impress their idiot friends. I just laugh, smile, and think "what a moron".
That sir, is a redundant statement....lol. (fart can/impress/idiot/moron):lol2:
 
#13 ·
I'm not attacking your actions, but there are other, less risky ways to test for loose components or broken engine mounts than revving the engine to the limiter in park.
 
#15 ·
Sorry, bud, but I agree with Sousa. 4000 RPM in neutral? That's warped. The whole idea of the on-board computer is to protect the novice owner from him/herself. Do a neutral bomb in a Taurus at 3000 RPM and you need a new tranny. Please, treat your automobile as a friend, and don't abuse it.

I wish I knew where you lived. There must be something in the water you drink.:p
 
#17 ·
As noted above, reving the engine in neutral / park wont test the motor mounts. The engine needs a LOAD (as in gear) on it to test the mounts.
 
#18 ·
Oh and all cars these days have rev limiters with the exception of exotica. Manuals included, ever watched someone rip around VIR in a Boss 302? There are 4 or 5 places on that track in that car were the way to turn the fastest lap time is to hit the rev limiter in 3rd rather than change gears. And if you think that it's just got an auto, the Boss 302 is only sold with a manual.


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#22 ·
But...why? There is absolutely no logical explanation to do so, other than to say you did. I guess I just don't get it.
 
#25 ·
ABS is also a limitation, do you not want that? How about air bags and safety belts? They limit you too. The bottom line is, its their to protect you and prevent you from destroying your engine. Leave it alone.
 
#24 ·
You cannot remove it. Sell the car if you're that unhappy over a common sense limit to keep you from blowing something up.
 
#26 ·
Don't forget steering stops, suspension bump stops, 4 wheel drive transfer cases that won't let you change from 2 to 4 wheel unless in neutral... Etc. I think the rev limiter is an amazing design to prevent a multitude of disastrous outcomes. Say you go WOT and your transmission pops into neutral and the cable sticks, or you're "showing off." I'd rather have an engine that runs rather than one that is in pieces.
 
#32 ·
Actually... its very simple to remove it. SCT scan tool has it as a feature right out of the box. Adjusts both drive rev limiter and neutral rev limiter. I didn't change mine. I mean there is just no reason to rev it that high in neutral - none at all!

Yes.....there are tons of limitations. They are there to keep you from suffering great financial loss or even greater loss - injury or death! You could blow up your motor, catch it on fire.... etc... keeps insurance premiums lower when safety features like that are implemented.
 
#34 · (Edited)
If anything I need to reprogram mine to make it lower to keep myself from doing the stupid impulsive things I tend to do :p I think if I had a 2000 RPM limit in neutral and a ~4500 RPM in drive I'd be better off. I often find myself accelerating at about 75% throttle and then letting off to not let it get above 4K on the highway.

I also would love to be able to reprogram the shift points... E.g. giving it throttle (not even all the way down) accelerating to interstate speed starting at 60 mph results in it kicking down from 3rd into 2nd gear and flying up to 5000 rpm before shifting 2 seconds later... like seriously that's bad for the engine and the transmission, uses more gas, and it's slower because it has to shift twice and the thing is way past its torque curve at 5000 rpm anyway. Pretty dumb design I think.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Modern ABS systems are 10 times faster than a person can ever be and it helps you keep control of the car. Take it from someone who drove a 69 t bird for a entire CT winter, ABS is nice to have. the rev limiter is there to protect you and the car, it's there to prevent you from nuking your bearings by free revving the **** out of it. There is no reason to not have it. And not wanting airbags it just plain stupid. They save thousands of lives on a daily basis.


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#44 ·
I believe 91 era Ford ABS was rear wheel activated only..if I recall correctly.
 
#46 ·
91 german made ford had abs sensors in all wheels so it has to be 4 wheel abs.

I think any ABS version monitors individual wheel speed if i recall correctly.

I dont know about 2008+ cars much i dont feel like spending fortune because of slightly improved ABS that i doubt works differently, i know however that new cars are full of electronic throttle, steering and in general full of it which is expensive to maintain working and it starts going out past 100 000 miles on average that's how they build it this days...
 
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