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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Taurus SEL SOHC with an issue or 20 :)

So, I had a new starter put in 9 months ago and a new transmission pump 5 months ago. I have put 90,000 miles on it in 16 months and it was bought from a Buy here Pay here dealership (Currently 153,000 Miles)

Primary issue is that the engine will not kick over easily in cold or humid conditions. I turn the key and all electronics come on, fuel gauge registers levels, but the engine will not kick in. I hooked up the OBD reader and get 0 codes. I run the onboard diagnostics on the dash and get the following readings.

LOW OIL PRESSURE
CHARGING SYS DATA ERROR
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL OK
FUEL LEVEL OK
ALL DOORS CLOSED
PARK BRAKE DISENGAGED
ENGINE TEMP DATA ERROR
BRAKE SYSTEM OK
FUEL CAP DATA ERROR
--- MILES TO E
--,- AVE MPG
------ mi

I turn the key a few times and it will eventually turn over but it will stall again within seconds if the weather is very cold. Stalling also occurred if I have the hood open and close it sharply almost as if it is shaking a wire loose but I have not seen anything loose to the Starter or Battery. Once engine is running a few minutes I can turn the car off and on again without trouble and the onboard diagnostics all show up as OK. Car started after work this evening but stalled as I pulled the hood open lever.

It does occur during warm days but is far more common when cold. Battery always shows at least 12.4

Car has also stalled while driving at highway speeds. Engine will cut out for an instant and cut back in again, usually feel a lurch and lose about 5 MPH before engine kicks in and resumes running. I have noticed this happens ONLY when using Cruise Control and I may be insane but I swear it happens mostly when I indicate and begin to merge to the right lane. :unsure:

I have been told the starter may need to be changed again and the engine design was a disaster because it has the oil filter above the starter which leads to spills soaking and messing up the starter. I have been told it is the theft system, and yes I have seen the theft light flash on for an instant when the engine cuts out, but the Ford dealership simply reprogrammed the keys and said they didn't know what to do next if that did not work.

I have tapped the starter and it seems to help at times and not at others.

QUESTION.

Is there any one thing that can cause all the error readings but NO codes to show up? I know it is only a matter of time before the car no longer works at all and as a Contractor I need the car to transport tools and myself to various jobsites.

Many thanks for ANY insight, I will not be using the dealership unless no other option but I want to walk in with some knowledge in order to ensure they do not try to pad the repair scope.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Battery checks out good with voltmeter and at Autozone stress test.

It began just after 120,000 but I will examine any thoughts on how to get it working right again. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you.

I never thought about it because 2 garages and a Dealership told me everything was good to the battery but with the lights, A/C and radio on I saw a drop from 13.8 to 12.4 in 90 seconds. Looks like it is time for am alternator change and see if that takes care of the issues.

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Had Alternator checked yesterday and it had an intermittent diode issue, replaced and worked fine, until this morning :)

Battery registered at 12.6V but engine would not crank, put battery charger pack on and it turned after a few minutes even though the battery voltage did not actually rise.

Still getting the same error codes on the dashboard display but nothing on the OBD scanner.

Not sure what next step is other than shooting the auld horse and putting her out of both of our miseries ;-)
 

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Select neutral and see if it will crank. If so the TRS (neutral start switch) is worn.
Also jiggle the gear selector. If this causes it to work, it's out of adjustment and/or the linkage is.
Check battery terminals for corrosion and tightness. The battery won't charge correctly if dirty/loose.
 

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Select neutral and see if it will crank. If so the TRS (neutral start switch) is worn.
Also jiggle the gear selector. If this causes it to work, it's out of adjustment and/or the linkage is.
Check battery terminals for corrosion and tightness. The battery won't charge correctly if dirty/loose.
Agreed. Check here and be sure that's not causing part of the problem


http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-solutions-common-problems-how-articles/175286-check-your-shifter-bolts.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I jiggled, I wiggled, I even giggled a few times and may have punched and kicked a little though I know I swore but, to no avail sadly. Seems the shifter is not causing such BUT, I did put in Neutral and it cranked over. I had tried a few times already so it may have warmed up but I am going to continue using this technique for a few days to ensure it works and then have it dropped in to a garage again to hopefully have this issue put behind me :)

Will be a case of your choice headed your way if this works 4 wheel disc brakes.

Thanks again for all your help with this, already had to turn down one job because it was uncertain whether I could get there or not due to the car not starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Select neutral and see if it will crank. If so the TRS (neutral start switch) is worn.
Also jiggle the gear selector. If this causes it to work, it's out of adjustment and/or the linkage is.
Check battery terminals for corrosion and tightness. The battery won't charge correctly if dirty/loose.
Once it cranked up, I turned the engine off again and waited 10 seconds, turned it on again in PARK and it kicked right on without trouble. Not sure if that would have any impact on this answer but I will take any success I can at this stage :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
And back to the drawing board. Neither method worked this morning.

I find that the engine tends to kick on if I leave the key in the on position for about 30 seconds, almost like having a glow plug from a Diesel instead of gas :)

I ran the engine to test voltage last night and as soon as I turned the A/C and high beams on, the engine cut out. It started up again and ran fine after a minute. I turned the high beams and A/C on again but the engine kept running this time.

I noticed an intermittent ticking sound and the engine revs race while at idle for a few seconds and settle down again. I have tried tapping the starter while someone holds the key in the start position but that did not help.

Starting to research which brand of Vodka makes the best Molotov Cocktail :)
 

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I dont know if this will help but my truck had a similar problem. It had a hard time cranking over, but more than that it would stall out when I was driving. I did some research on other forums and found problems with a wire short. The wire would short out the pcm and shut the engine off like turning off the key. The truck would start right back up after the pain in the but, neutral, key off, then back on while rolling down the road in traffic. Your issue sounds a little similar. I found my problem by starting the engine, going under the hood and wiggling the wire harness all over the engine bay. Use a wood broom handle or something for those danger areas like the belt, fan, and exhaust. If the car shuts down, you know your in the right area. Like I said I dont know if it will help but it may. Best of luck to you finding the issue.
 

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Cutting out (stalling) with the AC or headlights on indicates a voltage drop on a battery cable or connection. My parents had a similar problem on a 2009 X type Jag this summer. The negative battery cable was cracked on the battery end. As it warmed up the terminal expanded causing voltage drop after being driven for 20 miles, the battery voltage would drop on longer trips, exactly opposite of expected. On a long trip usually the battery gets fully charged. 12.4 volts is to low. Fully charged the battery should be 12.6 volts.
Check this and check the voltage drop on the cables and connections. From the negative post of the battery to the body should be less than 0.1 volts and shouldn't change much if the AC or headlights are turned on. Same from positive to starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good info, thanks for the thoughts and things to think about.

I thought fuel pump or lines may be at fault but it looks OK. Had the Alternator repaired after a short was found in it but sadly it did not fix the issue.

I have found that there was a Bulletin put out about hard and long starts in cold weather. 2005 Ford Taurus Engine and Engine Cooling System Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)
TSB Number:18583NHTSA Number:10017886This is supposedly linked to engines not liking E15 fuel in cold weather. Another article from 2013 also states some engines are not happy with the fuel blend in winter New E15 Gasoline May Damage Vehicles and Cause Consumer Confusion | AAA NewsRoom


I have not found any links to how to fix this, some sites want up to $100 just for a copy of the bulletin but I will call the local dealership next week and ask if they have any details since it concerns a few ford Taurus models from 2002 to 2006.


2006 FORD TAURUS | Safercar | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has info also, click on the Service Bulletin tab to see the issues associated but again, no resolution unless you want to pay up to $50 a hour for someone to copy and email you the file.


If anyone has any idea how to get a look at these bulletins it would help greatly, hoping the Dealership will have some details but they were less than helpful last time I went there.


Again, thanks for the info and things to look into.
 

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How old is your battery in this car? Leaving the key on could cause the battery to warm up from the current draw which will increase the chemical reaction and supply more cranking amps. I have a 2006 and I have no problem with the 10 percent ethanol.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Battery is about 9 months old and holds a charge fairly well. 12.6V after over 30 hours of sitting around doing nothing even in cold weather.

If I leave the ignition key in the on position for about 1 minute it will then start, I changed the fuel cap to see if that was causing a pressure vacuum and tried to check fuel lines for kinks which could cause a blockage on cold mornings but all looked OK.

On a really cold morning it will stall unless I leave it run for 2 or 3 minutes, once I get it going that long I have no trouble with it at all. I will have to check whether the local gas stations have 10 or E15 next time I am out and see if it makes any difference to performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I thought possible battery issues when the dash display showed LOW OIL PRESSURE each time it failed to start. Wondered if it was putting out enough juice to get the oil pump going or if the pump itself was going bad but then the fault clears up as soon as the engine does kick in as does all the other error codes on the dash display even though the OBDII picks up no codes.

Cannot think of any one component which would affect all the systems other than wiring bundle, PCM or security system but doubtful they would give a FUEL CAP DATA ERROR on the readout though that could be meaningless.
 

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The on board diagnostic is real time so if the cr isn't running the readout is useless. Have you tried to jump the car from another to see if it is a battery issue?
 
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