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Well fellas, I guess I've come to that crossroads that every Taurus owner dreads. At 110,xxx miles, the AXOD Metric didn't want to shift into second. The motor revved real high, and after it dropped back down to about 1,000 RPM's it went, slowly, into second.



What are all the parts needed for a strong rebuild on the AXOD? Steel 1-2 shift piston, bored valve bodies, etc?

I'm going to try and get under the car later on today to see if there is any discernable culprits.

Arghhh. Not cool.
 

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Originally posted by TrueBlue@Mar 5 2004, 12:32 PM


Well fellas, I guess I've come to that crossroads that every Taurus owner dreads. At 110,xxx miles, the AXOD Metric didn't want to shift into second. The motor revved real high, and after it dropped back down to about 1,000 RPM's it went, slowly, into second.



What are all the parts needed for a strong rebuild on the AXOD? Steel 1-2 shift piston, bored valve bodies, etc?

I'm going to try and get under the car later on today to see if there is any discernable culprits.

Arghhh. Not cool.
A teardown would be in order.

Check the planetaries. If still good, use them. If not, well it's obvious what needs to be done.

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Increase the diameter of the bore hole which supplies the fluid to the planetaries.

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Install larger fluid tubes.

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Install a fluid dam for the planetaries to increase the volume of lubricant:

http://www.fairbanksperformance.com/produc...vers/axod-l.htm

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Install a shift kit to reduce heat during shifts:

http://www.fairbanksperformance.com/produc...ection/axod.htm

or

http://www.fairbanksperformance.com/produc...tion/axod_V.htm

or

http://www.fairbanksperformance.com/produc...tion/axod-e.htm

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Other parts that may be of interest for the rebuild:

http://www.fairbanksperformance.com/produc...boost_valve.htm

http://www.fairbanksperformance.com/produc...ring_&_clip.htm

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Replace all aluminum accumulator pistons with steel pistons. Even if the aluminum pistons are still good, replace them anyway.

Ford Technical Service Bulletin: 94-24-7

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Consider installing an auxilliary transmission fluid cooler, preferrably of a stacked plate configuration. Some people prefer to install it in line with the fluid cooler that's built into the radiator while others just bypass the radiator and go with the outboard auxilliary cooler exclusively. A tube-and-fin type cooler will also work, but it's not as efficient as a stacked plate type.

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Consider using a quality synthetic transmission fluid of the recommended type over using a conventional fluid. Don't forget to flush/purge the transmission and replace the filter. Also, make sure the person doing the flushing/purging knows what they are doing.

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For people with the electronic transmission. If the range sensor has never been replaced for the longest time, then you ought to go ahead and get it replaced when the transmission is being rebuilt.

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Make sure the mechanic replaces all parts that might require replacement during the course of a rebuild. Particularly if the parts are old. This is especially true of seals. I had my AXOD-E rebuilt, but the transmission mechanic didn't replace the rear seal on the transaxle. It went out and caused the transaxle to leak out all of its fluid in a matter of seconds! The resulting rebuild ended up being free, though.

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Make sure the mechanic is certified as well as experienced with the Ford AX series automatic transaxles. I had my car's transmission rebuilt up to three different times, with the second time being due to incompetence with the mechanic doing the work (remember the leaking rear seal on the tranny). The third time had the rebuild dealt by a different mechanic, who was a master ASE certified tech with considerable experience with Ford AX transaxles.

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Make sure that all parts that need to be replaced are replaced. Ask for the old parts for your inspection so you will know that the work was actually done.

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While you're at it, check all four subframe mounts (two on the front within close vicinity of the front bumper and two on the rear just under the steering rack all underneath the vehicle) for the drivetrain and have them replaced if necessary. The mounts are notorious for breaking, especially when exposed to conditions like road salts. Be advised that the forward and rear drivetrain frame mounts are dealer-only parts.

Ford Technical Service Bulletin: 93V-106, 98V-323

Hope this helps. - Reinhart
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It does Reinhart - thank you.

So here's the sitch... I topped off the ATF, and I've been babying the car around town. I've got two Ford mechanics, one with 15 years exp. in FWD trannies, the other 30 overall tranny years with about the same in FWD, both very versed in Taurus transaxles. They're going to drive it on Thursday.

On a side note, I'm pulling code on it as we speak... waiting for the engine to warm-up to do Engine Running codes. Oddly, it gave me a 33, 1, and a 33 again.

I thought 92 and up had 3 digit codes, not two? And I also thought the spacer codes were a series of 1's, not a single 1? Hmmm. Either way, it looks like an EGR valve, but that's not related to tranny probs (but might explain the hard starts.)

More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
33 again.
Odd that it's a two digit.

Keep you guys up to date on Thursday.
 

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Don't forget to replace the Torque converter. The electronic models have a clutch in them, that wears over time just like a manual transmission clutch.

You can't use Mercon V, but you can use Amsoil ATF. I'm using it and it has served me very well so far.
 
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