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My wife is having a problem with her 96 Taurus LX (3.0L DOHC) with about 95,000 miles. While driving in town, the radio began flipping out, quickly followed by the loss of the speedo and lights. The car than began to sputter and lose power until finally stalling. The car sat overnight and then the same thing (minus the radio wierdness) happened while driving.

The car has a basically new battery and stock sound system. No remote starter or aftermarket security. She has not noticed any idiot lights coming on. I don't know if this is a bad TRS or an alternator problem. Could it be as simple as a fuel filter or similar?

Any help will be appreciated...
 

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This happened to my Gen 3 SHO its the alternator
 

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My wife is having a problem with her 96 Taurus LX (3.0L DOHC) with about 95,000 miles. While driving in town, the radio began flipping out, quickly followed by the loss of the speedo and lights. The car than began to sputter and lose power until finally stalling. The car sat overnight and then the same thing (minus the radio wierdness) happened while driving.

The car has a basically new battery and stock sound system. No remote starter or aftermarket security. She has not noticed any idiot lights coming on. I don't know if this is a bad TRS or an alternator problem. Could it be as simple as a fuel filter or similar?

Any help will be appreciated...
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My wife had a similar prob a few years ago. Her LX has climate control and tach. All at once the CC LEDs would all illuminate at once, the tach and speedo would peg out, then the car would shutoff. Might restart, might not. Had a corroded ground connector coming out of the CCR module. It is right next to the battery. a small one wire gray connector with a 8 inch lead that bolts the radiator support. I had to break the connector apart, then cut and solder the wires together. no more problems. The schematics don't show this wire, nor does troubleshooting. take a look.
 

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You need to remove the alternator and have them bench test it. Which does not always tell the story.

The real problem is your battery is dead when the lights go on and off. Now why the battery is dead is the alternators business.

But you can do the same with a voltmeter and not take it out of the car. Do you have a voltmeter?
 

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Then the battery fully charged and after sitting a hour should read 12.6V or more.

The battery should read 14.5V or so when the engine is running at 1500 rpms and after the initial drain from starting has been replenished (about 15 minutes after starting at highway speeds) and with most of the electrical loads in use.
 
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