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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

I have a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0L with 185,000 miles on it.

We had a coolant leak fixed on a road trip over Christmas, and a leaky heater core which we bypassed so I could fix it at home. Several drive hours later the service engine light came on, dropped by Autozone to pick up a new heater core and checked the error code, it was for the EGR valve.

I looked under the hood - see attached pictures. It looks like the EGR valve pressure sensor melted/exploded (?) and there is a cut to the wire which passes over the EGR (I think it is going to the EGR valve).

What would cause the EGR valve pressure sensor to melt/explode like that? Is it a symptom of a bigger problem or just a failure in the valve? Also, what is that wire connecting? I presume I can solder it.

(I did successfully replace the heater core, so we have heat. Would have been nice to have in Wisconsin/South Dakota!)

Thanks for the help,

Philip
 

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It looked like the broken wire was hot enough to melt the plastic. Not sure of the part that melted. The EGR valve is the round metal piece on the right of picture. The wire can be spliced with solderless connectors or shrink over good splice. Ask the parts store what the melted part is?? To dark to go look at mine now. Good luck and safe travels~~
downhill~~
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It looked like the broken wire was hot enough to melt the plastic. Not sure of the part that melted. The EGR valve is the round metal piece on the right of picture. The wire can be spliced with solderless connectors or shrink over good splice. Ask the parts store what the melted part is?? To dark to go look at mine now. Good luck and safe travels~~
downhill~~
You are correct, the wire goes to the EGR valve. I updated my post to be more clear. I have the tools to splice it.

The melted plastic item is the EGR valve pressure sensor. I'm not sure if the EGR valve pressure sensor melting is a symptom of a bigger problem or an isolated incident.

thanks,

philip
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Friend of mine at a Ford dealership suggested that the EGR pressure sensor would fail if there was an emission blockage.

What if the EGR valve wire was cut first? Does the EGR valve fail open or closed? Could that cause the EGR pressure sensor to fail?

phliip
 

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Hey guys,

I have a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0L with 185,000 miles on it.

We had a coolant leak fixed on a road trip over Christmas, and a leaky heater core which we bypassed so I could fix it at home. Several drive hours later the service engine light came on, dropped by Autozone to pick up a new heater core and checked the error code, it was for the EGR valve.

I looked under the hood - see attached pictures. It looks like the EGR valve pressure sensor melted/exploded (?) and there is a cut to the wire which passes over the EGR (I think it is going to the EGR valve).

What would cause the EGR valve pressure sensor to melt/explode like that? Is it a symptom of a bigger problem or just a failure in the valve? Also, what is that wire connecting? I presume I can solder it.

(I did successfully replace the heater core, so we have heat. Would have been nice to have in Wisconsin/South Dakota!)

Thanks for the help,

Philip
Pic attached shows what the DPFE looks like, with hoses.

There two types, the other bolts to the head and has longer hoses.

Hot exhaust likely melted it, not elect. There is only a 5v sensing voltage there.

For hot gas to get into it, there is likely a cat block causing high pressure in the exhaust and thus hot to the sensor.

-chart-
 

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I only know the Vulcan engine. With that engine, the "wire" you are talking about (the one in the middle picture) is in fact a vacuum tube that runs from the solenoid to the EGR valve. The EGR valve controls a stream of exhaust gas back into the intake. Too hot to contain electronics. So it is controlled by vacuum which is in turn controlled by the solenoid.

The sensor itself might have not been attached properly and fallen on the EGR pipe which runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve (and is VERY hot). Thus it got melted. But perhaps it still works and you only have the replace or repair the vacuum line to the EGR valve.
 

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Its possible you knocked the DPFE off one of the hoses while you were bypassing your heater core. I am pretty sure your heater core coolant lines are directly below the DPFE, and the hot exhaust gases melted the DPFE sensor and the vaccumm line above that like Architect said. ( but looking at the picture of the melted sensor its weird that its melted in 2 spots)
 

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Its possible you knocked the DPFE off one of the hoses while you were bypassing your heater core. I am pretty sure your heater core coolant lines are directly below the DPFE, and the hot exhaust gases melted the DPFE sensor and the vaccumm line above that like Architect said. ( but looking at the picture of the melted sensor its weird that its melted in 2 spots)
PIc 2 shows it melted while attached to the hoses.

Really need to test for excess backpressure.

-chart-
 

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^+1 with chart. Check condition of catalytic converters. No elec. wire to egr valve, only small green hard vacuum line wrapped in protective wire loom. Gray elec. plug goes to the dpfe (egr backpressure sensor). When you check/resolve the other issues, i would recommend the borg-warner dpfe from advance auto or oreilly. Part#egr631.
 

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^+1 with chart. Check condition of catalytic converters. No elec. wire to egr valve, only small green hard vacuum line wrapped in protective wire loom. Gray elec. plug goes to the dpfe (egr backpressure sensor). When you check/resolve the other issues, i would recommend the borg-warner dpfe from advance auto or oreilly. Part#egr631.
Checking for excess exhaust pressure should be first. The silicone hoses are designed for hot service, but the sensor is just plastic. It should see no hot gasses. If the DPFE got internal leak, letting exhaust pass through it might melt it down.

If that exhaust pressure is not high, then consider the less probable theory that somehow a hot Bat + wire got crossed with one wire to the DPFE and fryed it. If so, likely more damage to other things.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Its possible you knocked the DPFE off one of the hoses while you were bypassing your heater core. I am pretty sure your heater core coolant lines are directly below the DPFE, and the hot exhaust gases melted the DPFE sensor and the vaccumm line above that like Architect said. ( but looking at the picture of the melted sensor its weird that its melted in 2 spots)
This is exactly what happened. I took the car into the shop and they said the exhaust pressure test was fine, no excess backpressure. They installed the DPFE I supplied and fixed the vacuum line for $20.

Thanks for the help/advice, everyone.

philip
 
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