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:eek: My saga in replacing my water pump continues...after having removed the lower manifold in order to get a broken bolt out of the thermostat housing I broke it by improperly installing the upper manifold on it. A quick trip to the junk yard solved that problem after JB Weld wouldn't hold to fix the broken casting.

I properly installed the upper manifold and was attempting to install the EGR valve when the pipe that connects the valve from the upper manifold to the intake manifold cracked in two. :wub: I got a replacement tube from Ford but Ive had difficulty installing it because I can't get the old tube half off. The bolt that holds the tube onto the rear exhaust manifold on my 1997 Vulcan won't come loose.

I've now cut the remainder of the old tube off so only the gland nut that attaches it to the rear manifold union is there now. I've put a 27mm socket on it after soaking in PB, but it won't budge. I can't get my impact wrench into the space between the gland nut and the rear engine compartment wall.

My only thought at this point is to attempt to remove the rear manifold from the engine and the tail pipe assembly. Then remove the exhaust manifold and put it in a vice and hit the gland nut with the impact wrench.
Anybody got any ideas? :dunno:
 

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:eek: My saga in replacing my water pump continues...after having removed the lower manifold in order to get a broken bolt out of the thermostat housing I broke it by improperly installing the upper manifold on it. A quick trip to the junk yard solved that problem after JB Weld wouldn't hold to fix the broken casting.

I properly installed the upper manifold and was attempting to install the EGR valve when the pipe that connects the valve from the upper manifold to the intake manifold cracked in two. :wub: I got a replacement tube from Ford but Ive had difficulty installing it because I can't get the old tube half off. The bolt that holds the tube onto the rear exhaust manifold on my 1997 Vulcan won't come loose.

I've now cut the remainder of the old tube off so only the gland nut that attaches it to the rear manifold union is there now. I've put a 27mm socket on it after soaking in PB, but it won't budge. I can't get my impact wrench into the space between the gland nut and the rear engine compartment wall.

My only thought at this point is to attempt to remove the rear manifold from the engine and the tail pipe assembly. Then remove the exhaust manifold and put it in a vice and hit the gland nut with the impact wrench.
Anybody got any ideas? :dunno:
[/b]
Have you tried heating it up with an acetylene torch? If you do decide to do this, make sure you protect the surrounding areas with fireproof pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
<div class='quotemain'>
:eek: My saga in replacing my water pump continues...after having removed the lower manifold in order to get a broken bolt out of the thermostat housing I broke it by improperly installing the upper manifold on it. A quick trip to the junk yard solved that problem after JB Weld wouldn't hold to fix the broken casting.

I properly installed the upper manifold and was attempting to install the EGR valve when the pipe that connects the valve from the upper manifold to the intake manifold cracked in two. :wub: I got a replacement tube from Ford but Ive had difficulty installing it because I can't get the old tube half off. The bolt that holds the tube onto the rear exhaust manifold on my 1997 Vulcan won't come loose.

I've now cut the remainder of the old tube off so only the gland nut that attaches it to the rear manifold union is there now. I've put a 27mm socket on it after soaking in PB, but it won't budge. I can't get my impact wrench into the space between the gland nut and the rear engine compartment wall.

My only thought at this point is to attempt to remove the rear manifold from the engine and the tail pipe assembly. Then remove the exhaust manifold and put it in a vice and hit the gland nut with the impact wrench.
Anybody got any ideas? :dunno:
[/b]
Have you tried heating it up with an acetylene torch? If you do decide to do this, make sure you protect the surrounding areas with fireproof pads.
[/b][/quote]
Thanks for the reply. I didn't want to take a chance with the oxy-acetylene torch on it, even though I have a rosebud tip for heating stuff like that which would've minimized chance of a fire. I did heat it with a bernzomatic propane torch though. I figured the propane torch was hot enough to melt rust, and that the acetylene might produce such a hot flame that it would damage it or else weld the two parts together. The heat didn't work, and neither did any of the rust-busters solutions. I tried to free it with my impact wrench which I was finally able to fit in there, but my compressor went south. So I found a nut splitter deep in the mechanics bag of tricks and luckily it fit the 27 mm gland nut. I had to tighten up on two opposing sides and then hit the broken gland nut with a hammer. That took it off without damaging the union located beneath it. I then was able to thread the tube I had gotten from Ford onto the union. However, I soon discovered that the piece would not reach the egr valve. It would thread up onto it ok, and the y fitting coming off of it would mate to the additonal sensor that my California emissioned Vulcan has. But it just wouldn't fit together. I took a look at the shop manual and found another part number for the Vulcan with California emissions and FFV. My Ford dealer was unable to get the part claiming it was obsolete and attempted to get another which proved not even close to the first one they'd gotten me. Right now I am waiting on another EGR valve source through Tasca Ford to come in. I hope its the right one. If not, I guess I'll just have to get the first one back from Ford and try to modify it to fit. Anyone got a lead on this EGR tube?
 

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Just for the record:

Take off the upper manifold again, put a spanner (a large adjustable one will do) on the nut and put a long steel bar between the end of the spanner and the back of the block.
 

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My 2 cents on this - Before I really understood how the plumbing between the manifold and the EGR valve worked, I managed to break the EGR pipe as well trying to get the plenum off on a vulcan in a 2002. I went to the Ford parts web site to order the part:

Items Ordered:1. F1DZ9D477B

TUBE - EGR VALVE TO EXHAUST MA Price: $96.39

All was good till later the day my order got cancelled by the dealer it was assigned to. The dealer was nice enough to email me:

I just had to cancel your order with fordparts.com. The part you asked for is obsolete. The part your asking for didnt match your vin. The part your VIN called for is 1F1Z-9D477-AA. The part is cheaper 39.31 if you want to directly call and order through us or you can resubmit it through fordparts if youd like. Sorry for any inconvenience.


Chris Yancey
AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake


I called Chris and ordered directly from him. Got the correct part for a cheaper price. Moral of the story is that even if you give your VIN to fordparts.com apparently it is not a guarantee that you will get the correct part. In dealing with the EGR pipe I got a few stories about it being obsolete. Until the part came I was not convinced it would be the correct one. In the end though Chris from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake did come through and I was happy he cancelled the original order I placed on fordparts.com. If I had to do this again (hopefully will never be the case) because of all the confusion on this pipe (is the part obsolete or not, etc.) I would probably order it through my local dealer. Would probably be cheaper and would be easier to return if the wrong one shows up.





Also:

I was never able to separate the nut on on the pipe from it's nipple. Fortunately, I was able to get the nut off the manifold. I replaced that nut:


Items Ordered:1. F1AZ9F485A

CONNECTOR Price: $9.98

I suspect if the connector nut did not come off, I would have considered taking off the manifold. Never did consider a nut splitter. Good move on your part. Will have to add a nut splitter to my bag of tricks!
 
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