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ECT Removal 2003 Duratec 24v

2K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  Hornswaggle 
#1 ·
Looking for some pointers here as I was struggling trying to figure out the best way to attack the ECT sensor on my 2003 Duratec 24v. I'm hoping someone on here can let me know what they had to remove in order to get to this sensor. I can see it, could probably turn it, but can't reach the locking tab on the under side.

I got to this point by getting my first CEL ever on this car in 19yrs. She's been solid to say the least. P0125 which typically is a stuck thermostat in most cases but given the age and what I saw on my ODB scan tool of coolant never quite reaching more than 125 degrees yet my dash gauge always showed normal. I decided to change out the thermostat and both sensors just in case. All Motorcraft parts.

The sensor just behind the thermostat was easy, just remove a small clip/pin and out it came.
The thermostat was a bit more troublesome but I managed to get enough clearance removing the battery, battery tray, and the air intake box.

The last item is the ECT or CHT whatever it may be called. This is on the cylinder head and goes in with a 1/4 turn and a small tab that locks it in place.

My next go at it tomorrow may be to remove the throttle body and possibly get some pliers in to remove the thermostat housing as it seems that's the main culprit blocking my access.

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Update to the question. I managed to remove the sensor today with just a little more pressure than what I expected and a small hook tool that helped me release the tab.

Now the hunt is on for the replacement. I have a MOTORCRAFT DY962 from Rock Auto but it seems to have a bronze/brass cover over the sensor where mine pulled out with just 2 small wires joined in a ball on the end. Someone else on the forums had similar results years ago. I may have to resurrect that zombie and see if I get lucky on the response.
 
#3 ·
Ok, so I found the other thread and it clearly shows what I was dealing with (ECT Sensor 03 Duratec DOHC). The image below is from that thread and my sensor was just like on top and the new sensor just like on bottom. Now that I look at it I wonder if the bronze/brass part is stuck in the cavity possibly when I removed the sensor. Hard to say for sure since there is not much room and I didn't get my endoscope camera out at the time. If anyone can confirm this it would be helpful.

Gas Cylinder Auto part Engineering Metal
 
#4 ·
Your thread got me to thinking about this, too. My dash temp gauge has been whack for over a year now. I actually pulled one of these sensors off a JY donor with the intention of installing it to see if it corrected the problem...and, it still sits on my workbench. Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the sensor I pulled (which has the Ford pt number to confirm it's original) looks like the new one you bought. So, I'd guess your assumption about yours pulling apart during removal is probably valid.
 
#5 ·
Thanks. I will note for the 03 Duratec there are 2 sensors yet. One behind the thermostat feeds the dash. This other one is in the cylinder head and sends to the PCM.

That said I'm dreading trying to get in there and fix this. Will probably need to remove the entire thermostat housing to get in there.
 
#7 · (Edited)
In 2004, they went with this 1 sensor to handle both functions. And, it's difficult-to-access position is why my spare is still sitting on the workbench waiting for the day I have to change out the thermostat. Unfortunately, you are probably correct in that most of that menagerie of coolant hoses and t-stat hsg will need to be removed to gain viable access to removing that stuck piece. Hopefully, you'll get lucky and, once you can get a grip on it, will pop right out. Good luck!
 
#8 ·
Did you happen to source new hoses for your eventual work on your 2004? I managed to get a good look at the stuck sensor with my endoscope and I think it would be removable if and only if all tstat housing is out of the way. So if it's all coming out I might as well replace the hoses. I certainly won't do it again. I'm going to look on the forum here for results of hose brands others have used as well.
 
#9 ·
Adding some updates here should someone else fall into this situation.

So I've been driving with the code as I know the sensor is shot and the housing is stuck inside. I don't drive much or far so I haven't been overly concerned about running rich since I'm usually just at my destination (4-5 miles) before temps are up to normal or near normal. That said yesterday I almost got stuck as the car wouldn't start. Seemed like an old flooded engine. I eventually managed to get it going and home but got me thinking about a intermediate step before my parts arrive (I really need to check Rock Auto since its been a week and they never take this long).

Picked up a used Haynes manual and confirmed some data it provides about the thermistor in the sensor. Resistance is inverse of the temp so once the thermostat is fully open it should read about 2k Ohms. What I plan to do for now while I wait is simply use a 2k Ohm resistor on the sensor plug and protect it from heat and water as best I can. Not ideal and I'll run a little lean till the engine gets up to temp. For now I'll monitor more closely on the dash and keep the AC running so radiator fans will spin. Don't know if anyone else has ever done this, at least as a temporary work around. And yes, I know if the engine starts to overheat my fans won't ramp up with the heat to cool it down. Just keeping an extra eye on the dash and if needed, I just pull the resistor out and force full fans.

On the parts side, I picked up a new housing tube assembly or "rail" as it's called, part 3F1Z8548AC. This is where the sensor resides and where mine is stuck. I wanted a better look and if something goes south while removing mine I'll have this as backup. It wasn't expensive either and I could send it back if needed.
Gesture Font Art Elbow Thumb

The plan now is to get a good idea of depth behind the stuck sensor so I can try to drill out the old part or at least enough that I can thread in a screw to help pull it out.

Wife looks at me now even more "when are we getting rid of this car" to which just makes me want to keep it on the road that much longer. First CEL in 19yrs is not going to be the end of the road. Besides, I'm only at 116k so its young.
 
#10 ·
Resistor temporary work around was a success! 2k Ohm resistor equaled about 214 degrees F on the PCM per my OBD scanner. Radiator fans were on but not blaring. May try closer to 3k to ease the fans off a bit more, however since the thermostat is full open around 210 (please correct that if I'm off) I think fooling the PCM into thinking the engine is at 214 is a safe work around until these parts get here and I tear it all out. I was able to snake the connector for the sensor up hear the vacuum line coming off the throttle body intake flex hose and loosely wire-tie it there after I covered the resistor and the plug end with electrical tape. Should be up and out of the way of water and any chance of hitting something it shouldn't. Really kick myself for not thinking of this a few weeks ago as I was researching parts.
 
#11 ·
Ok, latest progress on here in hopes it might help someone else in the future.

Resistance vs Temp and Fans
2000 Ohm = 214 deg F and fans on low to medium speed
2100 Ohm = 210 deg F and the fans are just barely on low
17k Ohm = 102 deg F and fans aren't moving

I determined the hard cold starts were due to the lack of resistance affecting the fuel ratio so I wired up a variable resistor using a 1.8k Ohm resistor and an old auto light dimmer that in its range gives me enough high resistance to start the car easily ~ 17k Ohm when cold and dial it down as the car heats up even to engage the radiator fans a bit or get them to a medium speed when around 1900 ohms. This is definitely not ideal, a few wire ties, but drivable for around town.

The dash sender unit is still fully functional so I just have to watch where the temp gauge is and gradually turn the dimmer to a predefined mark I put on it with some green and yellow electrical tape.

This should prove a much better temporary solution than a static resistor for the time being. Here are some pics of the setup.

Original ECT connector slid nicely up around the air intake and my wire snaking back through to the door
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Vehicle Automotive exterior


Cable as it makes its way down by the hinge with a loose connected zip tie to help keep it from getting snagged
Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Vehicle Personal luxury car


The cable is a press fit into the space around the steering column up where I just have the dimmer sitting in place. Note its entirely to the max resistance ready for a cold start in this position. No color on the wheel. Temp on the ODB Scanner shows about 102-104 deg F.
Car Speedometer Vehicle Trip computer Odometer


Normal temp setting just where the radiator fans engage on low to medium speed. Temp on my ODB scanner shows around 210-212 degrees F.
Speedometer Trip computer Plant Odometer Car
 
#12 ·
Success!!
I decided to try 1 more thing, using a 3/16" lag bolt hoping I could thread it into what remained of the brass end of the sensor. This was my last resort before taking the entire thermostat housing and hoses out of the way. Toughest part given there is only about 2" of space was managing a 10mm socket on an extension just past the thermostat housing while I held the bolt threads with a pair of needle nose. Once it took I gently pried the bolt and the old housing out.

Here is the old sensor, or what's left of it and the removed end. Definitely need a coolant flush and am going to call my local shop this week to schedule. I may have to warn them it hasn't been done in a LONG time (if ever).

Automotive tire Gas Auto part Electric blue Plastic
 
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