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Ebc Rotors Not Warped

6K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  joe5.0 
#1 ·
Yea.. it is warped, sablerider has convinced me that it is probably from the accident I had in february, it is just now getting annoying and having braking problems.

If anyone has seen anything like this that wasn't due to a wreck let me know.

First picture is of the rotor and one part of it is obviously warped, and the gouge goes as deep as if not deeper than the slot.

Oh and the pads are fine.
 

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#3 ·
I've yet to hear any real glowing reviews of EBC products. Among most of the auto-x people I know they agree they are junk. Just a bit of info. :ph34r:
 
#4 ·
I have those EBC rotors, and I am very happy with them. I just pulled them last weekend to replace my pads, and the rotors looked great. I don't think they are junk at all. I am really hard on my brakes, and had my OEM style rotors turned twice in one year. Iv'e had the EBC ones in for two years now, and not a single problem.


That damage looks like an impact gouge. I would venture to guess that it was due to an accident: it would take quite an impact to do that.
 
#5 ·
I was extremely happy with them too until the jerking started, and they lasted longer than the smooth ones I had before, so I don't have anything bad to say about them, this is pretty obvious that this is not a manufacturer defect.

I am going to pick up my 13" baers at the end of August so these are only temporary. Unfortunately I can't just buy one new rotor....
 
#6 ·
I haven't had any problem with my EBC's. I've got the exact same ones. I put them on after my stock rotors warped at ~26K miles. I'm now at 47K and no signs or warpage. Kermit, do you get a kinda "cricket" sound from yours because of the grooves and dimples? I get that and wanted to know if it's specifically the rotors, or just the rotor/pad combination I'm using.

I think next time I replace rotors, I might go with a high end smooth rotor. Something that is dependable without having to listen to the Cicadas in my wheels.

-Dan
 
#7 ·
Originally posted by jtkz13@Jul 9 2004, 12:50 AM
I've yet to hear any real glowing reviews of EBC products. Among most of the auto-x people I know they agree they are junk. Just a bit of info.  :ph34r:
:blink: That's interesting. Have you been around the TCCA forums for the past few months? :blink:
 
#8 ·
Well remember those are Autocross guys. One man's Junk is another man's treasure. There just isn't anything near as good in the same price range for us that I know of.

-Dan
 
#9 ·
Originally posted by dant98@Jul 9 2004, 07:43 AM
I haven't had any problem with my EBC's. I've got the exact same ones. I put them on after my stock rotors warped at ~26K miles. I'm now at 47K and no signs or warpage. Kermit, do you get a kinda "cricket" sound from yours because of the grooves and dimples? I get that and wanted to know if it's specifically the rotors, or just the rotor/pad combination I'm using.

I think next time I replace rotors, I might go with a high end smooth rotor. Something that is dependable without having to listen to the Cicadas in my wheels.

-Dan
When do you hear that cricket noise? Is it when you're driving or when your braking?

I just changed my brakes because of a cricket noise when driving that would get quiet when I was braking, and because the steering wheel would vibrate when I braked. It turned out that one of the pads had shifted somehow and wasn't sitting right. When I took the pads out one of them had a flat corner, like it was riding on the edge.
 
#10 ·
dan, I have the same thing. It's because of the dimples; just a trait of the rotors.
As I said earlier, I just replaced my pads and I still have the sound.



Mike, the noise will get louder when you apply the brakes.
 
#18 ·
Originally posted by LoadedLX@Jul 10 2004, 07:46 AM
i was told you needed a special tool to remove rotors. i have a 97 taurus lx. mine are pretty shot and need replacing. is the tool bit true?
Nope. All you need are 2 different sized sockets/wrenches. C-Clamp too when re-installing (to compress piston).

-Damon
 
#19 ·
rock on. somebody told me for my car i needed a certain tool to remove the rotor. said it cost like $100.

glad i didn't buy that garbage. thanks for the info.
 
#20 ·
The BAER rotors I've got on the rear of my car aren't the BIG ones, they're the same size as factory- just drilled & slotted. I agree w/the noise issue from the EBC rotors. Sounds like a pebble stuck in the tire tread. All look & feels good though.
Trick is to follow the "seasoning" instructions to the letter!!! Once the rotors & pads are "bedded in" they're nearly immune to warpage/cracking & premature failure!
 
#21 ·
Originally posted by LoadedLX@Jul 10 2004, 10:18 AM
rock on.  somebody told me for my car i needed a certain tool to remove the rotor.  said it cost like $100. 

glad i didn't buy that garbage.  thanks for the info.
I'm going from memory, so I might be a little off. I think you need a 19mm socket (or tire iron) to get the lug nuts off, then you need a 15mm socket to get the caliper bracket off, then once the caliper is off and out of the way, the rotor pulls right off. If it's stuck, try whacking it with a rubber mallet.
 
#22 ·
Not that you'll have to do this. But my rotor was jammed, so we took a rubber hammer to it, and that did nothing. We tried the C-Clamp, that didn't do anything, and after a lot of lubricant and a lot of time, we finally just heated the rotors up like hell, and slammed them off as hard as we could. I would hope you don't have to do the same. But thats my story.
 
#24 ·
LoadedLX, the person who told you about that tool may have been confused. For the rear calipers (if you have discs in the rear) it's best to get a caliper piston tool. It isn't anywhere near $100 though. You can get a cheap one for $10-15, or a better one for under $50. The tool helps you rotate the rear caliper piston as you force it back into the cylinder. This isn't necessary for the fronts... they just push right in without rotating.

I've done several hard 140-70mph slowdowns which would surely cause fade on lesser pads, but the GreenStuff pads kept 100% of their bite. As most of you know, my daily commute is nothing more than 0-80-0-80-0-80-0-80-0 etc., with stoplights approximately every .25 miles. In other words, I'm hard as hell on the brakes. I've been very happy with the GreenStuff pads and plain Brembo rotors for my severe everyday use.

If I decided to do autocross regularly with my car, I would probably try something like Baer Eradispeed rotors (13" front, 11" rear), Baer 2-piston calipers, and pads like Carbotech Panthers or PFC Z-series track racing pads. But that would be around $2K, so I doubt that would happen to my car. :)
 
#25 ·
Originally posted by SixFoFalcon+Jul 9 2004, 08:43 AM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (SixFoFalcon @ Jul 9 2004, 08:43 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-jtkz13@Jul 9 2004, 12:50 AM
I've yet to hear any real glowing reviews of EBC products. Among most of the auto-x people I know they agree they are junk. Just a bit of info.  :ph34r:
:blink: That's interesting. Have you been around the TCCA forums for the past few months? :blink: [/b][/quote]
Well I personally havent used any, but sorry to say I put a tiny bit more stock in the opinions of people that I know whom auto-x and go to road courses frequently.

JMO ;)
 
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